View Full Version : Project Anglia
As others have done I will copy in the thread from the old Forum over the next week or so.
P.
Having sold my last Pop a few years back after owning it over 20 years, the upright Ford bug bit again last year when I bought this '53 Anglia.
21835
Plans at the mo are to fit 100E engine with Aquaplane tuning bits (these all came with the car) and get it on the road for the summer
Pic show modified sump
21834
Car is running lowered and reverse eyed front spring and 15" VW wheels
Body is V.clean with just one small rust hole to be dealt with.
The intention is to eventualy fit a Ford Duratec engine and give what I consider the classic Hot Rod look Black, Halibrands and low with stock bodywork.
One of the best parts of this forum is looking at other peoples projects so here's mine
Paul
british tin
18-11-07, 02:45 PM
hi paul, where did you get the wheel adaptors from to allow the fitting of the beetle wheels, as i'm desperate to get them for mine, cheers, steve
mrquickwhip
22-11-07, 09:26 PM
old vw 5-stud wheels go straight on without adapters mate
Not quite, they are actually a different PCD.
british tin
23-11-07, 08:53 AM
thats what i thought kev, i believe there about 10mm difference overall on the pcd.
Model A Mick
24-11-07, 10:20 PM
thats what i thought kev, i believe there about 10mm difference overall on the pcd.
I remember seeing this pop at Crumbles and I believe he fitted the wheels,drop him a pm he should be able to advice you.
british tin
25-11-07, 03:39 PM
cheers mick,
Hi BT sorry about the wait for a reply.
I ran VW wheels on my first Pop about 35yrs ago and had no probs.
The pcd is slightly different and if I was going to use the car a lot then I would maybe look for another solution.
This car is only being built for a bit of fun.
There is a differnce in the seat shape of the wheel nut but you can buy adaptors to sort this. 49 Anglia posted a link on the old site to the supplier.
http://www.vwheritage.com/ssp/Wheels/Nuts,-Bolts-Studs/?templateID=ssp
Wheel nuts have to be tightened carefully to make sure the wheel is square on the hub.
I would not recomend to anyone that they run VW wheels on a Pop / Anglia. It's your choice. I'm just pointing out what the problems are.
poprodder
25-11-07, 05:41 PM
yep, think there only about 1-2mm out, but there still not correct.
i'm runnin(will be, before you lot start!!!) adaptor plates, but then theres views on them!!!
http://www.dropshots.com/photos/64941/20061118/170442.jpg
More from the old Forum:
Nice approach Paul! Kapri.
hi, looks good, ex mr crumble? chris. Poprodder
That looks well straight, Your plans sound good too. Good luck. Sweet16's
I always said if I built another car it would have to be solid and need minimal body work.
When I decided to put original panels back on my last car I ended up spending hours reparing wings, bootlid, bonnet, doors etc.
So although you pay more at first I belive it saves in the long run and gets the project finished more quickly..........I hope!
Chris, ex Crumble, correct.
Sweet 16's are you running ally hubs on the front of your car? Any probs redrilling to 5 stud? Enfo54
Enfo, Yes they are ally hubs, they are custom built to fit the Cortina stub axles bringing the wheel in 1/2" extra either side. The discs are also custom made. I can take a few pics of the setup for you if you want.
I know what you mean about starting with a solid car. Mine was almost as mint as yours. You can afford to be picky when looking for a Pop because there's a fair few left.
Sweet16's
Paul,
Always thought your old car was one of the best looking Pops ever built. The new project looks really interesting, can't wait to see some more photos as it progresses!
Hopped58 Fat Rich
Damn good idea getting as good a basis as possible, i must have done about 2 years on body work alone, makes sense to buy the best u can, can't wait to see it finished, john
JSF55
I remember looking over this Pop at crumbles place and it was a very soild car,a great starting point for any project,a wise purchase indeed Paul. Model A Mick
I'll try and keep regular pics coming.
Next job is to build the Header for the 100E with massive 1" pipes !!!
S/16's if you have any pics I'd be most grateful. Once the Anglia is back on the road I have a daily driver to finish then all being well I'll be able to give the Anglia the full rebuild. So I'm currently in the planning stages.
Who made the hubs? I'm thinking of using Caterham ally uprights as they are not that expensive and will give a lightweight front end.
Although the plans are for the car to be quite traditional on the outside I want it to drive the best it can. Enfo54
Enfo, The hubs were made by an engineering company somewhere in Bristol. Any engineering company will make them, you need a 4 3/4" by 6 1/2" diameter alluminium billet. You could make them yourself if you have a big enough lathe.
I will take some photos for you at the weekend and send you the drawing if i can find it.
Sweet16's
Unfortunatly I don't think my lathe will take that diameter. If you have the drawing that would be a great help. Enfo54
Well the plan for getting the Anglia on the road for the summer came and went!
I've discovered that trying to build two cars in a garage designed for one just does not work.
So at the mo I'm putting up a workshop in the garden (from Warwick Buildings)and will be transfering all the tools into it so the garage just contains the cars.
Once that is done and I have some funds I'll look getting the Anglia running.
Couple of bits I'm on the lookout for....7" Anglia Headlight lenses,
an uncut Anglia Bakelite dash, Rare as hens teeth Export sidelights
If anyone has any of the above and wants to sell please mail me
Enfo54
if memory serves,teleman on here had some for his pop.maybe worth sending a pm to him?
i think there was talk of some commercial vehicles using the same type of light.
may also be worth trying here:-
www.s-v-c.co.uk/ CJH
If crumble reads this he might be able to help u out, maybe kevr (kapri) might have a dash, pm them if ur stuck, john jsf55
I'm not sure if they will fit but rally design do undrilled ali hubs for the escort/capri front end,i know they are strut but maybe with a bearing swop could be made to fit? Kev is probably the best to ask! Oilyneil
Good luck trying to find an undrilled dash! Just sold a pair of headlights. There was an Anglia in a scrap yard near here with all the bits you want still on it but the bloke's a miserable sod and would sooner see it rot into the ground. Sweet16's
Paul,looks good mate, what part of middx are you in?
Got to agree about the good starting base, must have done 2 years on my bodywork too.
Wish I had bought a minter when I started. Blackpopuk
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by blackpopuk
Paul,looks good mate, what part of middx are you in?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm in Hanworth
S16's saw your lights for sale but got a bit to rich for me!! What wheels are you going to run on your latest project?
Oily, thanks for the tip will look into that. Like your car, low, narrow, with all the stock trim, excellent!
Kev has sold all the dashes from Steve's collection and he did not have any Anglia ones but he did have a Prefect one which I bought. Enfo54
I was suprised how much they went for, I would of sold them for a lot less. Hopefully should be getting some split bus wheels for it soon from a guy i know. Is that what your wheels are off? Sweet16's
Mine came from Big Boys Toys 51/2 rear 4" front
They need spacers on the rear though cos they rub like hell with the body roll.
I had a similar setup on my first pop in '72 and had the same prob until I fitted some (now ultra rare) Ballamy rear hubs that had spacers built into them. You'll also find the fronts rub on the shox at full lock so you'll need to make some bigger steering stops to fit over the stock ones. Enfo54
Posted Oct 06
Well the new year is almost upon us and hopefully I might make some progress.
Just got the new workshop up (excellent job from Warwick Buildings) so maybe once we get the tools in there we can re-discover the cars in the garage.
Got another dash from Kev (thanks) so I think that should be sorted, also got some standard headlight lenses off Ebay.
My son wants to get the 100e engine built so with any luck while he does that I can can get around to getting the Cortina running.
Before all of this there is the small matter of payback time to the wife and a new patio!!! Oh well you can't have it all!
I was suprised how much they went for, I would of sold them for a lot less. Hopefully should be getting some split bus wheels for it soon from a guy i know. Is that what your wheels are off? Sweet16's
Mine came from Big Boys Toys 51/2 rear 4" front
They need spacers on the rear though cos they rub like hell with the body roll.
I had a similar setup on my first pop in '72 and had the same prob until I fitted some (now ultra rare) Ballamy rear hubs that had spacers built into them. You'll also find the fronts rub on the shox at full lock so you'll need to make some bigger steering stops to fit over the stock ones. Enfo54
Block and head are at the machinist being surfaced. New cam and other bits and pieces should be here on Tuesday.
Currently trying to straighten out the boot lid. Lid is mint except for where its been dented at some time and then badly repaired although I'm not sure I'm improving matters!!!
Thinking of switching to twin SU's and getting rid of the twin downdrafts. Enfo54
Posted May07
Well here's where we're up to now.
Like all projects, I thought just tidy it up get the engine running and off we go.
Next thing I know the car is a bare shell and I'm on my back bare metaling the underneath of the floor.
All the underneath and chassis has been painted with Por15 anti rust black.
Boot floor has been sprayed along with footboards, trans tunnel and firewall.
All suspension parts have been dissasembled and sprayed.
Engine is 100E with new 60thou over pistons, new valves and springs, new cambearings, bigend bearings, Aquaplane exhaust manifold, sports cam, twin downdraft solex carbs and an Aquaplane head.
http://usera.imagecave.com/53Anglia/Angliarearfloor-copy.jpg
http://usera.imagecave.com/53Anglia/Angliaengine2-copy.jpg
http://usera.imagecave.com/53Anglia/Angliatranstunnel-copy.jpg
Due to probs with the rear wheels (VW) rubbing on the inside of the wheelarch I am fitting a pair of Ballamy rear hubs. These are ventilated and have built in 1.5" spacers. Bought these off Ebay cost me a mighty £200 but they solve a problem and were NOS. When new in the early '60 these still cost £17.
http://usera.imagecave.com/53Anglia/Ballamyhub-copy.jpg
Still have to rewire the car and finsh bootlid and rear wings.
I'm running Lucas rear lights on the bootlid as on my previous
Popular. Bumpers & o/rdrs are being chrome stripped as they need repairing and will probably be painted for now.
Hope to have it finished for wheels day next year.
Wow, funky drums!
I know what you paid, but how hard are they to find? I need some of them!! 49Anglia
Why next year?
Were both at about the same stage, race ya to the finish? We can both be done in a week or so if we try hard enoguh
Love this car, didnt see it till after i decided to stay sidevalve and use period 'special' parts. Yours is just how i see ours turning out, except fot the ratty paint on ours.
how hard are old 'special' parts to find? Ebay seems to throw nothing up, are they all sold through seperate circles? 49Anglia
Try here
http://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/en/part.phtml?PartID=3520
Small Ford Spares are a good source.
I had a pair of these drums on my first Pop over 30 years ago anf they were hard to find then Enfo54
How straight is that car! Looking good.
Small Ford spares do repro Ballamy drums now and also have an original set.
http://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/en/parts.phtml?VehicleID=0&Category=/autojumble/
Not cheap but if you need them then you need them. Sweet16's
Craig, do you have any spares of those trafficator blanking plates you made?? Enfo54
Continued from Old Forum
Cool! I need to save some cash then.
Like you, i want to run VW steels eventualy. I was going to move the rim on the center but this may be a better/safer way.
Also, i just think it will look cool with detailed brakes and no hubcaps!
49Anglia
A couple of other questions if you dont mind, do these drums work better?
Are you still running cable brakes?
Still running stock axle?
Stock wishbones?
Waht about your prop?
Sorry, just trying to get a feel for what its possible to bolt together. 49Anglia
Email me your address and i'll send you some up Paul. housecraig"at"yahoo.co.uk
Sweet16's
Everything is stock except for the lowering job.
Because of the 15" rear wheels the gearing is going to be low so depending on how far I want to go with the project when the car is finished I may get a 4.4 gear s e t from S/F Spares to make it more driveable. To fit an open drive rear axle means you have to fit a 100e box or 105e with new bellhousing and then you have to cut the crossmember and you have to convert to fluid brakes on the front and setup a pedal assembly.
Oh and regarding the drums I guess they would improve efficiancy because of the cooling but only under hard use. Enfo54
Thats why i asked, so your running the 100e motor on the stock anglia box then.
Ive been thinking about trying to convert the origional brakes to hydraulic but that still leaves the low gearing to deal with.
I might just use 100e engine, 105 box/axle/brakes and then run adapters to convert back to wide 5.
The way you've done it is nice though. Will the stock axle cope with the extra power?
Running a stock box/axle and 15" wheels, after adding the 4.4 gear set, what sort of top speed should you have?
I want ours to be able to do motorways.
Sorry for all the questions but im new to this age of car and you seem to know everything that i need to know! 49Anglia
Axle should be fine as long as you treat it with respect and don't try dropping the clutch above about 500rpm!!
Regarding the PCD.......yes there is a slight difference but ran this setup on a previous Pop and don't remember there being any probs. You just have to bolt them up with care so they are as even as poss.
Top speed I'm not sure about but is easy enough to work out approximatly.
This car is really a return to my youth!! as it has all the speed parts on it I couldn't afford when I was 17. Enfo54
your making a nice job of my old girl paul. cant wait to see it out and about. that engine looks the nuts mate well done. Crumble
*flip* me that looks good.excellent work.chris. Poprodder
dont you have to change the studs and nuts when using vw wheels? i think they have a different taper angle? think thats what ive herd. Blown Pop
VW wheels have radius seats, the anglia has tapers. Also, the seat is a slightly larger diameter on the VW wheels.
Conversion washers are availabel though, you dont have to swap the nuts. 49Anglia
My car I going to be pretty low milage so I'm happy to go with the VW wheels and keep a careful eye on them.
If I intended to do more milage I might think twice.
Graeme you might be best sticking with stock.
Where can you get the washers from?? Enfo54
Cant remember where i got mine, either VW heritage or Machine 7.
Thinking about it, im sure i got them through a company called SSP (strret style and power) they are a sister company of VW heritage. You can call either company to order bits. 49Anglia
Enfo. I still have that copy of Street Machine at the top of my bundle. I have always loved pops, but only done in a certain way. Yours (and now also Frank C's) was always the way I pictured how I would like mine to look, and has been the inspiration to keep the enthusiasm going for all these years to finally get started with one. Just to say thanks. CallumA
Thanks Callum.
Although I knew how I wanted that car to look in the end it really would not have turned out that nice if it hadn't been for the help of firstly Alex Prosser who at the time was a panel beater at AC Cars weybridge building real Cobras. He took care of the body and paint. Shane Powell who is the best welder I know and did loads of little jobs for next to nothing as well as the roll cage and rearend. Lastly a local sheet metal company (now closed) where nearly every job was "oh just give us a tenner". It was unfortunate that a growing family meant I had to sell, but at least I've got another one now. Enfo54
http://usera.imagecave.com/53Anglia/Popular-copy.jpg
Paul....I was always saddened to 'lose' Alex when he did his own thing. A true craftsman and a really genuine guy.
A Google search shows him as restoring vintage aircraft in Northern Califoria along with various top flight restorations and custom builds. Nice to know that he is still involved as at one time I thought he had walked away from everything.
I really miss him... Plumpcars
Been a while since I updated this .....so just to show i've not been sitting on my arriss here goes...
Sorted the oil filter problem by poping the canister in the lathe and cutting off 21/4" inches then found a suitable sized elemement at Halfords, cut down the centre bolt and hopfully it will be ok. I remember that you can get around this by using the housing off the 103e engine and braising a plate on the side of it to eliminate the filter on the 100E engine.
21831
Another issue were the torque bars that run off the sump bolts and onto the front crossmember. I'm sure that on a 103E engine these are a straight swap onto the 100E. Not so from the 8hp E493A engine. The boltholes on the brackets do not line up on the sump of the 100E engine. So I made some brackets that pickup on the unused 100E engine mounts and then shortened the torque bars and mounted them to the brackets. blockoff plate was also made for fuel pump.
21832
For some reason my comp will not upload a lot of text in one go so I'll have to do it in bits......
Throttle linkage which runs across the top of the engine had to be extended upwards to clear the head as the 100E engine is taller than the old 8HP. have sorted the carb linkage but not really happy with it as the travel is very short and its very close to the exhaust manifold which may knacker the spring in the ball end connector. pic to come
Bad news! The Aquaplane cyl head I have is now scrap. It had some corrosion from one of the cylinders to a bolt hole and it was to much to skim off. So I bored out the bolt hole and made a sleeve to go in it, then a friend welded it up. Problem was that when he welded it the casting was so poor and contaminated that he said it was like "chasing Mercury". Result is that the weld is porous in the combustion chamber. Ballc0cks!! He warned me before he did it that it was going to be iffy as to whether it would be ok........some you win some you lose! Original iron head is now away being skimmed.
Floorboards are made and in and I've bought the new interior......6 sheets of black Millboard.
Nicked an idea off Jonny. He came up with the idea of using an old tin for his wiring and leaving it on the parcel shelf.
I'm running Lucas wipers and did not know where to hide the motor as the Anglia dash is not as deep as the Pop one....so I took the Vacuum tank and split it open and mounted the motor inside....popped the two halves back together and problem solved....not quite!
Unfortunatly the bend required in the bundy tube was just too much and resulted in to much drag on the cable. So out with the motor (whole weekends work wasted!) and in with the Pop Browns wiring panel.
3078
Am currently prepping the panels that need painting and trying to not get to fussy about them.
Hope to get it running in the next couple of weeks and then mot during march.
Will stick in the pics during the week......blimey that was a bit of a marathon!
Well since my last update there's been a bit more progress.
Got the engine running last week with another Aquaplane head in place (thanks Popman). Biggest probs are the sump has a pinhole in one of the welds and is weeping oil and the oil pressure is a bit low 20lb. Checked the pressure with another gauge just incase but still the same.
One phone call to Small Ford Spares and a bottom end gasket set is in the post.
Have pulled the engine and am going to check the pump as well.
After about 4 attempts the pinhole is finally welded.
Took off the pump there is about 12thou play in the mesh of the gears, not sure if this is excessive? Other than that can't see anything wrong. Think a call to SFS's to see what they say and then order a new pump if needed.
3082
3083
Jonny69
30-03-08, 07:12 PM
Hey Paul, how did you measure the play in the gears? Feeler gauge between the teeth?
Mine showed about 40-50psi when idling cold and dropped down to almost nothing when it got hot. Pressure came back up to about 15psi when revs were up. I put it down to ultra cheapo oil and a slightly worn bottom end but I should check my pump too.
Fantastic looking engine though, can't wait to hear it in the flesh!
Yep measured the gap with feeler gauges.
Spoke to SFS's today and they said it sounded a bit excessive so I've ordered a new pump.
Hopefully will be back up and running at the weekend.
Sounded good though especially on an open exhaust
Paul, you should have a PM , top right of page.
Jonny69
01-04-08, 02:09 PM
Yep measured the gap with feeler gauges.
Spoke to SFS's today and they said it sounded a bit excessive so I've ordered a new pump.
Hopefully will be back up and running at the weekend.
Sounded good though especially on an open exhaust
Sounds like great fun :D
I should check mine really, did they say what was an acceptable gap?
Hi Paul, how far from the bump stops are you with your reversed eye spring fitted?
What bump stops!!!
No room for them.....axle is about 2" from bottom of chassis.
I'll measure it when the engine is back in.
Jon
as far as pump is concerned SFS's did not give an acceptable gap but in the book "Tuning Sidevalve Fords" the author says there should be v. little or no play in the mesh of the gears.
Think i'll be cutting a lump off mine as they are fairly thick.
As for your 100E oil pump i have a lot of play in mine but it seems to work well. I emailed SFS about selling me just the gears and they said they had been working on a kit to sell. I had an email this morning with this link....
http://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/part.phtml?PartID=3647
Thanks for that Craig.
Pump hasn't come yet so I'll give them a ring.
I'm using Halfords Classic Car oil 20 / 40 what does anyone else run in a sidevalve?
Just as a bit of info if anyones looking for a new headlining for their Anglia / Popular / Prefect Smallford Spares do them for £90 odd quid all sewn up ready to fit. I'll let you know how good they are when I try to fit mine.
Jonny69
05-04-08, 02:49 PM
I run £5 20W50 multigrade but it does go a bit thin when it's hot so I might think about somethng better once I've had mine rebuilt.
Just got the new pump and checked the play in the gears, 6thou, so hopefully we will have a bit more pressure.
Got to repaint the sump before we can get it all back together.
Wiring has been bound and is now back in the car.
Craig, 1 3/4" from the bottom of the chassis rail to top of axle with engine in.
Should be running again this weekend so will find out if the pump was at fault.
Oh one other thing I found the engine rubs the firewall slightly so you need to grind down the casting flash on the back of the block and also grind down the two pass side threaded inserts that mount the dip switch as they also rub the back of the block.
The motto of this story is never assume anything.
When I got the engine with the Anglia it came as a block and crank and 6 rods and pistons.
Anyway I took it that the four matching rods and pistons originated from the block and as one of the pistons was damaged that one of the other pair was going to be used as a replacement. (I fitted brand new pistons anyway)
Checked the bearings mains and rods decided to use the mains and replace the rods, 40thou undersize.
Crank was good so decided not to regrind. After initial low oil pressure fitted a new pump...........NO DIFFERENCE.
So that means it can only be one thing, that the pressure is bleeding off somewhere.
Out with the engine again...off with the sump.....off with a rod cap.....measure the crankpin......50thou under!!
Engine should be back in next weekend.
plumpcars
27-04-08, 08:54 AM
Paul....There is nothing worse than doing a job twice but three times would drive me into despair! You're nearly there now so stick with it and I'll swap a ride in mine for a ride in yours!
Hope to pop in soon for a quick look.....
Well it's running
not great vid, I'll do another sometime.
My cobbled together exhaust is almost an open pipe. Will sort proper system before mot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp-6SEpf5ig
Engine is 100E and has Aquaplane head, hot cam, stiffer valve springs, ported and relieved block, twin downdraft solex carbs, Aquaplane exhaust manifold, sports coil, new pistons, bearings, oil pump, and all the mods to make it fit!
Might be able to see in pic how low it is. About 1 1/2" inches between top of axle and bottom of chassis.
Ballamy rear hubs. Wheels are 5 1/2" x 15 Rear 4 1/2" x 15 Front
Rear wing just hung in place. Can't really get back any lower.
Front of sill measures 7 " to ground and rear of sill 7 1/2".
british tin
24-05-08, 07:19 PM
enfo54, what make are the wheels your using m8?
49anglia
24-05-08, 07:20 PM
There generic aftermarket chrome bug wheels, often called 356 replicas.
Look for big boys toys etc.
Lots of very tasty alloys for bugs too!!
49anglia
24-05-08, 07:22 PM
these for arguments sake:cool:
http://aolsearch.aol.co.uk/aol/redir?src=image&clickedItemURN=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.retroscenemag.com% 2Fimage.axd%3Fpicture%3Dmoon%2Bspeed.jpg&moduleId=image_details.jsp.M&clickedItemDescription=Image Details
Lots of different wheel adapters available too.
british tin
24-05-08, 08:07 PM
cheers
21830 Christ I can't believe it's 5 years since I posted on here! Well the Anglia is pretty much finished now. Got put on the back burner while other things got in the way. Ended up replacing the ali head and going back to stock. Both the Aquaplane heads I have leaked water and were too corroded to skim. Will take a bit of fine tuning to get the most out of it but runs well otherwise. Hope to be out driving in a couple of weeks!!
I like the approach you have taken with the build and it has turned out really well:thumbsup2:
I like the approach you have taken with the build and it has turned out really well:thumbsup2:
Thanks. Other than the electrics and possibly the chrome wheels the car is a bit of a period build. While some of it has been repainted the main body shell & doors have not and show they've had a life and that's what I wanted.
21833
21830 Christ I can't believe it's 5 years since I posted on here! Well the Anglia is pretty much finished now. Got put on the back burner while other things got in the way. Ended up replacing the ali head and going back to stock. Both the Aquaplane heads I have leaked water and were too corroded to skim. Will take a bit of fine tuning to get the most out of it but runs well otherwise. Hope to be out driving in a couple of weeks!!
Nice to see you got back on here Paul, the Anglia looks neat.
A lot of the early `60s Spedeworth stock car racers had weeping problems with warped Aquaplane heads brought about by the continuous over heating because of inadequate cooling. Some racers went to the Ford 8 Y model head (higher comp than the 10) with some relief work in the chambers. Those little banger motors can really put out some power for their size/design :thumbs_up_smiley:...
plumpcars
09-06-13, 06:42 AM
I've seen the car now it's done and can vouch for its looks, so much character but shame about the head. Great to see you 'fiddling' again Paul!
I've seen the car now it's done and can vouch for its looks, so much character
It certainly looks like it`s got that Steve!. It reminds me of an orange rodded Pop that used to drive past my parents flat every day, in Hampton Road West around `65 :cool:...
Rover V8
13-06-13, 09:16 PM
Hi Paul,
Good job on the Pop mate, good to see you stuck with it, and managed to finish it, enjoy,
Cheers,
Mike C.
Thanks, took a while but got there in the end!
Got another project that has been going 15 years or so but am back on it now so hope to get that done in the next year or two.
You can find the original thread here if your interested.
http://www.nsra.org.uk/newforum/showthread.php?22901-Mk1-Cortina-Estate&highlight=Cortina+estate
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.