What grade steel are wheel studs?

[4x4100E]

Can a bit of studding of the right grade be used as a wheel stud? If so what grade should it be?

Matt

[langysrodshop]

You gotta be kidding with that question aern't you ???



Can a bit of studding of the right grade be used as a wheel stud? If so what grade should it be?

Matt

[poprodder]

matt,
buy the right studs, last lot i got were less than £1 each, even the sleeved nuts(which you asked about) were the same price. in my mind these parts are as important as brakes, i'd never skimp on them.
chris.

[4x4100E]

Right problem is i've got my hands on a set of custom split rim centres. The guy used some weird angle for the bolt hole taper as he ****ed em up, so he made some custom wheel nuts to fit. They're 7/16" thread.

The car they're going on uses wheelbolts not studs. You can buy wheel studs that screw into the bolt holes from speedshack. However they don't do em in 7/16", so need another way to convert to studs.

Matt

[weemark]

buy the studs from somewhere like hauser racing then, they do 7/16 - most raceshops will - if no one here keeps them order them from summit, theyre only $10 per wheel

[stueeee]

Matt,
Can't you use 7/16" hexagon sets screwed into the hub from behind to provide your "studs", The hexagon head would need to screw up to a flat face on the back of the hub.

You'd need to use a high tensile fastener; SAE grade 8 (6 bars round the head) or BS grade T (55-60ton tensile) fasteners ought to be up to the job unless your car is really heavy/has hugely sticky tyres. Only problem might be finding hexagon sets long enough in the 7/16" UNF size, you'll probably find most suppliers will only stock bolts in the longer lengths.

Stuart.

[Adam]

Either use the proper 7/16 studs from most places or open the holes up to 1/2" and use screw in studs from hauser, Chris Issacs, Andy Robinson and open the wheel holes as well. Do not use anything apart from the proper parts.

[stueeee]

Do not use anything apart from the proper parts.

Obviously if Matt can buy an "off the peg" product that would be the way to go. The hexagon set screwed through the back of the hub does work though and I can't see any reason why it's not a safe solution if properly installed.
http://i103.piczo.com/view/3/h/b/5/2/u/p/w/0/w/z/t/img/i305899043_69306_5.jpg

It's been in use on the driveshafts (as above) on this car for several seasons. 15" wide rims, sticky slicks, 1.2G off the line, 2G+ through fast corners, no problems as yet. The yield, let alone failure loading of four 7/16" high tensile hex sets is way above anything you'd encounter in anything other than a nightmare "flat out into the wall" accident where a wheel coming off the hub would be the least of your problems.
http://i103.piczo.com/view/3/h/b/5/2/u/p/w/0/w/z/t/img/i252120643_68579_5.jpg

Stuart.
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[Adam]

Stuart, That car as quick as it is weighs very little compared to a street car and anything works fine, till it fails. Not saying yours will as you obviously have rules to adhere to but everything has it's limit. My wheel studs are mandatory 5/8" and I too have 14x15's with sticky street tires but the car weighs 2900lbs. I just thought if others who may not know whats what are reading this they may turn to B&Q as an alternative without realising the consequenses.

Nice race car btw. Whats the spec? Is that a Rover in there? Ah yes just clicked on your site.

[4x4100E]

Cheers might try that method. The car they're going on is only 650kg wet so shouldn't be a problem.

Matt

[langysrodshop]

Strange eng half shafts come with 1/2" UNF Hi tensile capheads fitted.

[MisteR Tee]

Buy a set of 7/16" wheel studs & ream out the hub holes to suit them, I keep a lot of 7/16" studs in stock in various spline diameters.

Alternatively, have the wheel holes re-faced to the correct 60 degree taper so you can use metric wheel bolts.