Garage wiring part two

[kapri]

Wel, thanks to Screwfix, I've now got a delivery of lights and sockets to wire up. The sockets will be going on a ring main but I want to wire up my 12 lights in banks of 2. Do I run a ring main around the garage ,picking up all teh sockets and then run teh wiring from teh switch out to one light and into the other one , ending there or do I h to return it back to the switch.
I can wire a car from scratch no probs but have never done house wiring.

thanks in advance

Kev

[Lawrence]

In a line Kev, stop at the last light. Try to do it when its dark, on a really short set of steps to recreate my garage wiring LOL.

[Col33]

Understanding domestic electric lighting circuits


(See this page (http://www.diydata.com/electrics/cable_colour/cable_colour.php) for the 2004 changes in cable colours)
lighting cable (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#cable) - switches (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#switches) - method of wiring (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#wiring)
Please note that all electrical wiring and installation details given on diydata.com is for information purposes only. From 1st January 2005, the Building Regulations Part P requires, in England and Wales, that only certified persons can carryout electrical installation work, or the work must be certified upon completion - see this page (http://www.diydata.com/planning/planregperm/planning_rules.php#electrics) for more details.
In modern domestic properties in the UK, the main electric lighting circuits are separate from the power ring main circuit. Each house should ideally have at least two lighting circuits; each protected by a 5 amp fuse or 6 amp trip in the consumer unit. A single 5/6 amp circuit can cope with up to twelve 100 watt lamps, it is usual in a multi-storey house, to have at least one lighting circuit for each floor even if the number of lamps are less than 12 on each level.
Shaver units may also be connected to the lighting circuit (treat it as equivalent to one 100 watt lamp) - where installed in a bathroom or a room containing a shower, the shaver unit must incorporate an isolating transformer.
Lighting cable
Unlike the ring power circuit, the lighting circuit does not form a loop returning to the consumer unit. The consumer unit is normally connected to the first lamp, which in turn is connected to the second lamp and so on.
The cable used is a 1sq mm PVC twin core and earth rated for up to 12 amps. It consists of a red insulated core for live, black insulated core for neutral with a bare earth conductor between them. The three conductors are laid side by side within a PVC sheath. When connecting the cable, the exposed earth connector must be covered with a sleeve coloured yellow and green (to denote that it's an earth).
The lighting cable is routed from the consumer unit to a series of lighting points for ceiling roses or wall light fittings. The power to each lamp is connected via a wall or ceiling mounted switch. Some light units incorporate their own switch, for these fittings, the power circuit is then connected directly to the fitting.
Light switches
http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/wallswitch.jpgMost room lights are controlled by wall mounted toggle switches (although alternatively touch sensitive or rotary light dimmers can be fitted), The cable normally runs down the wall within conduit within the plaster. A flush fitting wall box is sunk into the wall to take the switch, or alternatively a surface mounted box is fitted. Multi-switch units enable more than one light to be controlled from one position.


http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/ceiling.jpg In bathrooms and shower rooms, the switch must be a 'pull string' type.
These switches can also be used when new lights are being installed - they can easily be screwed under a ceiling joist with minimal disturbance to the decorations. There is a tendency to feel that pull switches are only suitable for bathrooms etc., however this limits the opportunities and should be avoided. When a new light is to be positioned over a work surface or even an external light fitted, there is no reason why a pull switch should not be mounted in any convenient position.

Two wiring methods
There are two basic methods of wiring lights - by ceiling rose and by junction box.
http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/switch1.jpgSystems using the ceiling roses make all the connections at the ceiling rose. While this removes the need for one junction box per lamp, it is often more awkward for the average diy'er.


http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/switch2.jpgWith the junction box system (an old standard but still found in older installations), a cable is taken to a series of junction boxes, one for each light fitting/switch. The junction boxes are generally located between the ceiling joists or under floorboards close to the switch. Junction box type connections are required for fluorescent lights and other fittings that do not use a ceiling rose.



lighting cable (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#cable) - switches (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#switches) - method of wiring (http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/electric_lights.php#wiring)

[kapri]

Well...what can I say ? All the info I could need, many thanks Col,
Kev

[Paul B]

Understanding domestic electric lighting circuits


http://www.diydata.com/planning/electric_lights/switch2.jpgWith the junction box system (an old standard but still found in older installations), a cable is taken to a series of junction boxes, one for each light fitting/switch. The junction boxes are generally located between the ceiling joists or under floorboards close to the switch. Junction box type connections are required for fluorescent lights and other fittings that do not use a ceiling rose.

That is the sort of system you'd use if your power supply were arriving inside the floor/ceiling, where you supply power to the light, then run a power line down to the switch and then back up to the light. My switches will be right by the main consumer unit, so I shall be running power from there direct to each switch, then individual twin and earth up from the switches to the split banks of lights. I'll probably have three sets, so I can just have the lights on where I'm working.

My nephew is a domestic sparky, so I'm going to run it by him and get him to give it a final connect up and inspection and do the Part P paperwork for me.

[Whiff]

Just like to warn you Kev, that all wires are full of pressurised smoke. Car or house, if a connection is loose or touches another wire or worse an earth there will be a spark or flash and some of the pressurised smoke will escape.
Most appliances run warm (no fire without smoke) but the smoke is contained, sometimes a dud bulb is still full of the smoke that has got out of the bulbs filament. Shorts or overloads in wiring looms cause that smoke to drift out from under the dash. I'm sure you have seen lots of instances of this smoke escaping.
Even the ignition puts a sparking into the engine and the smoke ecsapes through the tail pipe. So be warned 220volt pressurised smoke can be dangerous if you handle it, you won't be able to cup it in your hands.
Whiff
PS Still want a lift next week? Medication should worn off by then.
PPS Just smoked a lovely King Edward 300volt cigar!
PPS Burnouts are a misnomer. It's the rayon in the tyre wall construction builds up the static electricity whilst slipping on the surface, then it's the discharge to earth that causes the smoke.