rodbuilder
23-02-09, 11:22 AM
I have four experiences in re-bodying a chassied car with a rod body and have been asked a number of times to explain the process as the DVLA site is a little confusing.
This is my experience using the Bristol DVLA office and there may be some variations between offices but the procedure and time scales are the same.
Key points
The inspection is only a VIC ( Vehicle Identity check) and there is no interest in build quality, roadworthyness or C&U regulations.
Success depends upon meeting the points to keep the original identity this can only be done by using an unmodified chassis. In my experience removal of the outriggers on a Scimitar or Triumph chassis is acceptable.
A new body has to be used and a receipt is the only acceptable proof of this photographs do not count. ( Some argue that this is not written and should not apply but in my experience it is a requirement) Do not use a new body and SVA required. See Kev's note below, old body can be used.
When you fill out the V55 and V627/1 you specify what you want to call your car, it can be anything except a registered name like Ford. I use Rodshop or Rodline with model Type 34 or Type 29 then if anyone does a roadside check there is no doubt that it is a Rod.
If you use a pre 73 doner then the new car will also be tax exempt and usually retains its original number but not guarenteed.
Steps
Build the car with above in mind and get it ready or as close to MOT as possible as once the VIC is done you will need to get it MOT'd within one month. you do not need paint, interior etc.
Call DVLA local office and ask for Kit and rebuild section and get a registration pack which should include a V55 ( application for first licence)and a V627/1 ( Built up vehicle inspection report).
Complete the forms and send off with the current first registration fee approx £50 with a covering letter explaining you have rebodied a current car giving your daytime contact numbers.
The inspector will call and arrange to take a look usually within 10 days either at your home or workshop.
He is interested in checking the doner chassis number against the V5c which should be straight forward except on early Scimitars for example did not have a stamped on number ( I will cover that later).
Inspector will go through the V627/1 on which you will have listed the origin of each major component Chassis,Transmission,Steering assembly,Engine and Suspension ( front and back) which make up your points tally.
Up until last year if you had fitted a different engine Rover V8 for example you just told the examiner and recorded it on the V627/1 and put the new engine number and CC on the V55 but the guide lines for capacity changes have been changed so you will probably need a receipt and/or a letter from a garage confirming the change.
Remember to only answer the questions asked relevent to the application do not say more than you have to and IT IS AN UNMODIFIED CHASSIS.
The inspector should go away happy.
You will then need to get an MOT within a month the MOT station should MOT it using the chassis number, send your application for Vehicle licence, MOT and a new V55 ( you have already filled one in but send a new one anyway) along with a cheque for tax disc if you are using a post 73 doner. Send it to the Kit and rebuild section.
You should get the new tax disc within 10 days with a form for you to take to a number plate supplier instead of the V5c and a new MOT form showing the reg number, the log book will turn up in due course.
What can go wrong.
If you do not have a stamped chassis the inspector will go back to the office following the VIC check and send you a form with a 17 digit chassis number starting SABTV****** which you need to stamp on the chassis and have on a plate on the car, when you get the MOT the tester will check the chassis matches the form and sign it and then stamp it for you, this needs to be sent off with your other documentation. Twelve months ago this was the biggest problem which lead to a lot of arguing with DVLA so I suggest you look very hard for the stamped number!
DVLA still may say you need SVA as they do not understand their own rules VOSA are very helpful in this instance I called them and they put me through to someone more senior in DVLA and they helped get it registered.
When you send the V55 you need to send the fee it is a lottery but you should get the money back so the whole process may be FOC.
Check the V5C carefully they are nearly always wrong!
Drive the tyres off it!!!
This is my experience using the Bristol DVLA office and there may be some variations between offices but the procedure and time scales are the same.
Key points
The inspection is only a VIC ( Vehicle Identity check) and there is no interest in build quality, roadworthyness or C&U regulations.
Success depends upon meeting the points to keep the original identity this can only be done by using an unmodified chassis. In my experience removal of the outriggers on a Scimitar or Triumph chassis is acceptable.
A new body has to be used and a receipt is the only acceptable proof of this photographs do not count. ( Some argue that this is not written and should not apply but in my experience it is a requirement) Do not use a new body and SVA required. See Kev's note below, old body can be used.
When you fill out the V55 and V627/1 you specify what you want to call your car, it can be anything except a registered name like Ford. I use Rodshop or Rodline with model Type 34 or Type 29 then if anyone does a roadside check there is no doubt that it is a Rod.
If you use a pre 73 doner then the new car will also be tax exempt and usually retains its original number but not guarenteed.
Steps
Build the car with above in mind and get it ready or as close to MOT as possible as once the VIC is done you will need to get it MOT'd within one month. you do not need paint, interior etc.
Call DVLA local office and ask for Kit and rebuild section and get a registration pack which should include a V55 ( application for first licence)and a V627/1 ( Built up vehicle inspection report).
Complete the forms and send off with the current first registration fee approx £50 with a covering letter explaining you have rebodied a current car giving your daytime contact numbers.
The inspector will call and arrange to take a look usually within 10 days either at your home or workshop.
He is interested in checking the doner chassis number against the V5c which should be straight forward except on early Scimitars for example did not have a stamped on number ( I will cover that later).
Inspector will go through the V627/1 on which you will have listed the origin of each major component Chassis,Transmission,Steering assembly,Engine and Suspension ( front and back) which make up your points tally.
Up until last year if you had fitted a different engine Rover V8 for example you just told the examiner and recorded it on the V627/1 and put the new engine number and CC on the V55 but the guide lines for capacity changes have been changed so you will probably need a receipt and/or a letter from a garage confirming the change.
Remember to only answer the questions asked relevent to the application do not say more than you have to and IT IS AN UNMODIFIED CHASSIS.
The inspector should go away happy.
You will then need to get an MOT within a month the MOT station should MOT it using the chassis number, send your application for Vehicle licence, MOT and a new V55 ( you have already filled one in but send a new one anyway) along with a cheque for tax disc if you are using a post 73 doner. Send it to the Kit and rebuild section.
You should get the new tax disc within 10 days with a form for you to take to a number plate supplier instead of the V5c and a new MOT form showing the reg number, the log book will turn up in due course.
What can go wrong.
If you do not have a stamped chassis the inspector will go back to the office following the VIC check and send you a form with a 17 digit chassis number starting SABTV****** which you need to stamp on the chassis and have on a plate on the car, when you get the MOT the tester will check the chassis matches the form and sign it and then stamp it for you, this needs to be sent off with your other documentation. Twelve months ago this was the biggest problem which lead to a lot of arguing with DVLA so I suggest you look very hard for the stamped number!
DVLA still may say you need SVA as they do not understand their own rules VOSA are very helpful in this instance I called them and they put me through to someone more senior in DVLA and they helped get it registered.
When you send the V55 you need to send the fee it is a lottery but you should get the money back so the whole process may be FOC.
Check the V5C carefully they are nearly always wrong!
Drive the tyres off it!!!