32 B Sedan queeries [Archive]

BuffaloBill

07-11-18, 10:54 AM

I have recently bought a '32 B Sedan with a Fibreglass body and has this front suspension on it. Can anyone identify the make and model that it came from please? The previous owner thought it was a Cortina setup and a friend says it's most likely an early Viva one. There is no paperwork with it to identify anything on the car at all. It has had 9 previous owners so I live in hope that someone will see this and know it. It has a Ford V6 and a four speed manual box. It is really tired and needs lots of work to bring it up to a reasonable level but I need to know more about what's fitted to it. I'm hoping to get it finished for the Rutland show although I now live in Mid Norfolk. Thanks in advance3925739256

maddoctor

07-11-18, 11:04 AM

i would say cortina mk 3 or granada hope this helps

kapri

07-11-18, 11:07 AM

It's Mk 3/4/5 Cortina . I've used quite a few and always found this lot good for hard to get parts http://www.oldpartstore.net/ Rally design also stock lots of upgrade parts at good prices.

martin

07-11-18, 11:28 AM

Nice looking Sedan.

randrhotrodimports

07-11-18, 01:27 PM

looks a loverly ride hope you get he parts you need

BuffaloBill

07-11-18, 04:04 PM

Cheers for the replies so far. The ride is so hard that there are so many rattles and knocks it's almost unbearable!
I only drove it 12 miles home and was pleased to get out of it!!:eek:
I've never been in a rod so bad but the price was right and I just need to sort it out.
As for the front, I believe that it needs adjustable shocks or softer ones to sort that out.
I also would like to replace all the ball joints and rubber bushes too,then I'll look at the rear.

kapri

07-11-18, 04:21 PM

Shouldn't ride so hard looking at length of springs etc ? Weak spring will cause the shocker to bottom out so may need to space the bottom of the shocker down a bit to gain some more travel . Before you do anything though check your tyre pressures , drop to about 26 in front and 20 in rear and see if it improves. Isued my last Cortina based rod as a daily without any probs on harshness.

tudor32

07-11-18, 04:31 PM

its cortina mk 3/4/5

BuffaloBill

07-11-18, 05:13 PM

Hi Kapri. The front spring travel is OK. If a stand on it and bounce up and down it travels enough but is a hard ride!
Likewise, when jacking it up, as in the photo, there is enough travel upwards too.
I'm a retired mechanic (now 71) so know my way around vehicles but not sure what the suspension came from.
Anyone know where I can get adjustable shocks from? Google hasn't played well for me!

Tudor32. Thanks, I'll look up some photo's online to see the setup (I hope!)

Edited to add that I just thought to check the wheel nut pcd and it appears to be 108mm. That fits with
Cortina info I found online compared to 100mm for a Viva.

DeuceTudor

07-11-18, 07:20 PM

As Tudor32 / kapri have said its from cortina mk 3/4, body looks to be a Jago 32 sedan, so you possibly have a matching Jago chassis which in standard form was set up for cortina front and rear suspension to bolt straight in, its not clear in the picture but its possible someone has cut the springs down to get there desired ride height, which will make the ride very hard on a light weight rod, I'd strip one side down and see what you've got before ordering up parts,

Not teaching you to suck eggs, Just what i found when i got my Jago 32 sedan,:thumbs_up_smiley:

kapri

08-11-18, 06:44 AM

I know a bit of history of this motor as it belonged to afriend of a friend a good few years back. He was the one that changed teh wheels to what is on there now . They are wider / taller than the original wheels and I THINK the wheels fouled on the arches and he fitted new spring sto overcome this. I also THINK thay V6 Cortina springs where fitted which are way to high a rate for a rod . The difference bewteen a rod and cortina is that in a rod the engine sits behind the axle and so the front axle actually sees much less weight than if still in a Cortina .

Simplest way to look at rate is measure the length of the spring with car at rest and then with the front end jacked up . Ideally the bottom arm should be just off level with a small amount of downwards incline towards the wheel .

BuffaloBill

08-11-18, 09:39 AM

DeuceTudor. I spoke to Geoff Jago the other day but he says his memory is not so good now so doesn't remember it.
He says the body must have been built after 1968-ish, but he's not too sure. Now I know what springs are fitted, I can go from there.
It may explain the hard ride. I might remove the shock and try the bounce on the front to see if that softens it up. If not, it must be the spring.

Kapri. Maybe changing the springs back to to say, 1600 Cortina may soften the ride assuming the springs fitted haven't been cut.
I would be very grateful if that friend-of-a-friend of yours could contact me as I stated above, that there is no paperwork at all
to say what is/has been fitted and it's been many many years since I delved in rods of any type. The guy I bought it from really hadn't
a clue and just told me 'Parrot Fashion' what he had been told.
Thanks to you guys at least I have something to go on with.

kapri

08-11-18, 10:47 AM

My friends mate owned it is Holmsey on here , it's worth a PM to him. I saw the advert when it was for sale saying it was Geoffs personal car but I used to hang out there a lot and only remember one sedan being built in te shop and that was initially to order for Kens Custom Shop down here though I don't think Ken ever took delivery.

I did sell the original steel car that mould cam efrom. Didn't belong to me but was an estate sale on behalf of another friend.

Sedan and sedan delivery models didn't become available from Jagos until later in the 70's as initially he focused on the roadster and then the 5 window coupe which used the roadster mould as a starting point. In fact even the roadster shell wasn't a Roadster but a cabriolet model.

Is the rear on leaf springs or 4 bar , panhard rod and coil overs ?

kapri

08-11-18, 10:51 AM

Is the chassis joined sections of large box section 6"x2" as the Jago chassis is quite distinctive . I just don't remember them using Cortina front ends , almost always one of their tube axles in front. Cortina front didn't become that popular until the early 80's.

BuffaloBill

08-11-18, 01:00 PM

Geoff told me he never had one as his personal car but remembers building a rolling chassis for someone who had money problems and so was sold to someone else.
The chassis is a substantial box section but a bad back is stopping me from getting down to measure it just now but the photo shows a part of it.
Rear suspension is on coils with separate shocks and a panhard system using rubber joints as per cars of the 70's and 80's. The other photo shows part of the rear suspension.
As can be sen from those photo's, she is in need of some serious TLC and looks to have been neglected for some time. JMO of course.
39270
39269

Holmsey

08-11-18, 01:14 PM

Yes my mate Pudzz owned it a few year back. He did miles and miles in it.. many with me with him and it drove beautiful, must of been messed with since. I'll ask him Saturday what he changed apart from the wheel's.

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BuffaloBill

08-11-18, 02:07 PM

Thanks Holmsey. I really cannot put into words how grateful I am with the help I'm getting from you guys. :thanks:
Any information that he can provide will be invaluable to me. If it would help him, I can provide him with my Email address.
My intention is to get it running smoothly and properly and stop all the knocks and bangs and leaks etc. then strip it and
clean/paint and rebuild and produce a spreadsheet of all the parts that have been used and where possible, the part
numbers too. Any rod or kitcar should be done in that way as the next owner may well need that information to replace worn out parts.
Incidentally, how do I sent PM's here please?

martin

08-11-18, 03:08 PM

kapri

08-11-18, 04:11 PM

4 stud rear axle ? With straight lower arms and triangulated top arms going to some chunky casting on the sides of the diff ?

BuffaloBill

08-11-18, 05:13 PM

39274
Excuse the writing. My son took this on his phone but does it show what you are asking?
If not, I'll see how my back feels tomorrow to get another photo.
4 stud wheels all round.

kapri

08-11-18, 07:29 PM

Right rear end is also Cortina . The rubber hanging out is the remains of a towing assister ring. That would definitely help with banging as theses axles are very pron eto winding up the diff and hitting the chassis rail with the nose cone. Especially so if the rubbers are shagged in those arms. As an old time mechanic you'll be aware of the reputation of Cortina void bushes. My recommendation is to replace all bushes with urethane EXCEPT for those either side of the diff which need replacing with heavy duty / estate bushes which don't have a void . You have to keep one end rubber in there as the arcs of travel conflict and will bottom out so still making it jarr.

kapri

08-11-18, 07:33 PM

This is the type of rubber assister but the actual one depends on gap between unloaded coils.

It's true that agood car can so easily become bad after a few owners . One of mine was a shadow of itself after 10 years of other owners but after a chat with the latest owner and advising how it should be set up it was good as gold again. It had gone from a 120mph steering with one finger to 50mph if you had balls of stee l:(

Brizey

08-11-18, 07:54 PM

Is the chassis joined sections of large box section 6"x2" as the Jago chassis is quite distinctive .

Having seen your photos Bill I would think that your chassis is a Jago unit, as Kev said they were made of 6"x2" box section, and somewhat heavy and `agricultural` in appearance.
A bit of reading for you in the link (below) to a Rods n Sods thread about a Jago sedan delivery found in a back garden. Some past sedan owners on there state their cars came set up for Ford Cortina frontends ect, Geoff`s son Stuart has a bit of input too!...

https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/history-archive/geoff-jago-sedan-delivery-found-72424

BuffaloBill

09-11-18, 03:15 PM

Hi Kapri. Is this the "triangulated top arms going to some chunky casting on the sides of the diff" you were talking about?
39294

kapri

09-11-18, 05:06 PM

Yup, that's the one :) Anti roll bar on rear also suggests it's a 2 litre axle. The shape of the rear slave cylinders will confirm that.

BuffaloBill

09-11-18, 07:19 PM

Thanks. I feel that progress is being made now :thumbsup2:
So it seems that we have a Mk3 Cortina front axle and steering and a 2lt Cortina rear axle.
I have ordered replacement spring compressors as I sold most of my tools when I retired early 7.1/2yrs ago.
Then I can measure the length of the front and rear springs in an unloaded state.
Also an engine compression gauge to replace the one I sold, just to see the state of the engine.
I'd be interested to know if the valve seats need, or were changed, for unleaded petrol. Anyone know if they
may have needed doing? Ford V6 with engine numbers SC12536 7E12.

BLACKROD

09-11-18, 11:21 PM

looks to be mk 3/4 Cortina standard rear suspension set up

BuffaloBill

10-11-18, 05:58 PM

I jacked the rear end up this afternoon and found that the offside rear spring has been broken and the piece is missing.
Compared to the other side, she sits 30/40mm lower on that side so new springs are needed. The problem I have is when
looking on the interweb, the springs are shown as having one end smaller in diameter than the other whereas these appear
straight 'tubular' jobs. The only way I'll know for sure is to remove the rear wheel for a better look, hopefully tomorrow.
Or has Google got it wrong?
On a slightly different note, does anyone have a V6 manual box with overdrive for sale? The engine numbers suggest it's a '76.
Whether that makes much difference I really don't know. It would make a big difference on longer journeys for sure.

Kapri.
I checked the tyre pressures today and they were all at 30psi. Now set at your suggested 26 front and 20 rear.
May get a chance for a quick spin out to see tomorrow.

Holmsey

11-11-18, 10:58 AM

Had a Craic with me old mate Pudzz last night. He was shocked and saddened to see the state of the suspension and chassis. He used to keep it spotless and painted up all the time. He said same as me it drove beautiful as they have to when you have to drive so far to the shows from up here in sunny Cumbria. He seems to remember 6 coils on the front springs, so they have definitely been cut or replaced. It was Cortina and I would probably start by buying a new set of front and rear std or lowered Cortina coils springs and go from there.

BuffaloBill

11-11-18, 04:54 PM

Holmsey

11-11-18, 05:45 PM

He won't know Bud. He bought it already done. He just tarted it all up put some wheels on he didn't have anything to do with the building of it. Try on Facebook for a guy called jack indestructible lad think he may know more of its original build.

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weemark

11-11-18, 05:49 PM

can you not take the springs off the car and go into a local motor factor to see if they can match them?

scottie

11-11-18, 06:21 PM

Thanks Holmsey. Just one bit of help for now...........
All the rear springs Iv'e looked at for Cortina's have a smaller diameter coil on one end where these are 'straight' coils
with 98mm O.D. and 13mm thick and probably in excess of 300mm long.
Can you ask Pudzz if he knows what the springs actually are please.
Once I have this info I'll get new springs all round ordered and leave you guys in peace for a while :whistle:
Bill

the rears on your car dont look like cortina rears, as you said they should have a smaller pig tail coil that sits on the stock cortina arm , i have a couple of sets i can measure if you need any sizes

BuffaloBill

11-11-18, 07:32 PM

Weemark. I have moved 70 odd miles away from where I used to live and work and so the Motorfactors I used are not close by.
I'm not sure of any around here yet(Dereham) so I'm a bit stuck really, hence the many questions. If I was still at my old
address, I'm sure they would have helped as I dealt with them for over 25yrs.

scottie. I'll grab any help I can get!! Height isn't a problem but obviously the outside and inside diameters do because of the
cups they sit in. I would like to raise the rear of the car so any extra height is a bonus.
When I jacked it up with the axle hanging and presumably the shock holding it, the spring measured 9" (230mm) and was still
under tension so I'm guessing at 300mm or more with no tension, but it's a guess.

scottie

11-11-18, 07:56 PM

there are some sizes here to get started with , but as i said they might not be any use to you as it looks like you do not have cortina springs on the rear

http://www.burtonpower.com/rear-coil-spring-cortina-mk4-standard-height-380lbs-cs157.html

weemark

11-11-18, 08:30 PM

These guys would be able to replicate what you have if you sent them a sample or could make something up to your spec.

http://www.dfaulknersprings.com/acatalog/Specials.html

BuffaloBill

13-11-18, 04:57 PM

Update.
I went up to my old motorfactors and gave him the dimensions for the front springs and he found them!
They are from a 1980 Cortina 2ltr Estate so was worth the trip. £55.80 the pair.
He also found the rear's too which he didn't have in stock but will be with them in the morning and
he will send them by courier so should have them by Friday. Can't remember the model and make of
the vehicle but will be on the paperwork when it arrives.
'Job's-a-goodun' as Guy Martin would say.

mygasser

13-11-18, 09:59 PM

re the front springs a 1.3 cortina front spring would be the lightest poundage available stock. as for the rears although the pic shows a plate has been welded to the lower arm for the 'big all the way' spring it looks to be in the stock location on the arm. so if you swapped a pair of stock lower arms in then stock cortina rear springs should also fit.
neil.

BuffaloBill

14-11-18, 11:23 AM

Neil, apparently it's the same springs for the 1300/1600 and 2000 on the fronts. It's the same Kilen number anyway.

mygasser

14-11-18, 03:01 PM

kapri

14-11-18, 05:21 PM

Yeah I guess the aftermarket just supply 1 for the 4 cylinder cars and 1 for v6 cars these days. The crossflow is considerably lighter than the pinto engines so the Ford originals would be lighter poundage.

The springs will be too high rate regardless :( The reason is that the engine sits behind the front suspension on a rod but over it on a Cortina. Weights on my A worked out at about 470 front and 650 rear . I've some photos here somewhere of how the springs / lower arms sat but that was with a 14" rim not a 15" .

mygasser

14-11-18, 10:03 PM

i'll check tomorrow if cortina and escort/capri are the same diameter coil springs. if so we keep various lengths and poundages at work from about 145 lbs up.
neil.

BuffaloBill

16-11-18, 12:07 PM

I have a digital VDO speedo and odometer and whereas the speedo works ok, the milage display appears blank even with the lights turned on to illuminate it.
Anyone had this problem or knows where I can get it fixed please. Google just seems to throw up foreign companies for me.39349

Happydaze

16-11-18, 01:26 PM

Might be as simple as an option of the dip switches, ie oddo on/off? A bit of a weird option to include anyway perhaps but how knows!? I'd be checking the instructions first.

Chris

nitro1471

16-11-18, 01:39 PM

Is this any good for you :)
https://www.vdo-gauges.com/media/instructions/0%20515%20012%20051%20--%20Programmable%20Speedometer(c).pdf

BuffaloBill

16-11-18, 02:59 PM

Chris. The car came with it fitted and he said it used to work but was quite dim and sometimes was blank as it is now.

Nitro.. I already have that very same info and it appears from the wiring to be set up as option 1.
I would like it sorted as the rest of the dash is fitted with VDO gauges and obviously matches too. I found out from
Googling that it may well be still recording the milage even though the display is blank.
By-the-way, like your avatar photo! Yours?

nitro1471

16-11-18, 04:50 PM

BuffaloBill

24-11-18, 03:55 PM

Just a quick update on the VDO odometer problem.....It's fixed!!
Turned out to be a wiring problem so I put in a complete new wire for it so speedo and milage readings now
readable and the Insurance Co. are happy.
Looking at the wiring behind the dash, when it comes round to removing the body for repainting, I will have to
rewire from scratch. There are wires going all over the place that seem to do nothing along with some of the switches.

Brizey

01-12-18, 01:34 PM

…..Looking at the wiring behind the dash, when it comes round to removing the body for repainting, I will have to
rewire from scratch. There are wires going all over the place that seem to do nothing along with some of the switches.

Rewiring a rod is easy today Bill, there`s plenty of wiring kits aimed at rods and home built cars in particular so strip out all that old spaghetti and start afresh.

Personally I`ve used `Pop Brown` wiring kits in 2 of my rods and found them easy to fit, top quality and reliable.

http://popbrowns.co.uk/ox_portfolio/wiring-loom-kit/

BuffaloBill

01-12-18, 05:26 PM

Thanks for that MrB. I'll be looking into that later.
A quick update.... I fitted new Cortina springs to the front and I now have suspension again! Needs about an inch taking off the spring
to get the ride height I want but no big deal. The springs that I took out were approx. 3" shorter so no movement left in them. Also one of
the rattles was discovered when I removed the upper bolt from the rear shocker to find that the bolt was 3/8" dia. and the shock had a 1/2" bush in it!
No doubt I'll find more yet.....

yellacar

02-12-18, 07:52 PM

Hi Guys

for what its worth I use a Pop browns wiring loom in my Model A nice simple loom to fit.

cheer Ian

BuffaloBill

04-12-18, 04:36 PM

Thanks Ian. I will take a look there when I'm near to doing the job.

BuffaloBill

05-12-18, 04:58 PM

Anyone know where I can get a new windscreen rubber seal please.
Iv'e tried Carbuilder Solutions, PopBrowns and Woolies but no luck. Thanks.

weemark

05-12-18, 07:46 PM

whats the profile on the seal? have you tried somewhere like belchers engineering or jackhammer? if it is an original style 32 seal try homegrown hotrods, they keep most parts for a '32

Happydaze

06-12-18, 10:29 AM

Screen rubber? Pics would help! Jago? Seen somewhere one was bonded in then a stock looking surround made of ali or something with a suitable profile, polished up (or painted?) and glued on for a deceptive, stock look.

Chris

BuffaloBill

06-12-18, 05:15 PM

39605

The car is an early F/glass job from Geoff Jago. I am reluctant to remove the screen just yet whilst I'm changing
parts/repairing etc. as I need to road test them afterwards.

tudor32

06-12-18, 10:38 PM

martin

07-12-18, 07:38 AM

DeuceTudor

07-12-18, 11:35 AM

pretty sure thats a brasscraft screen frame,same as the ones that were fitted to Jethro bodies.there still about.dont know where though.google them.if its not.speak to Kris brown he was at jago,s when they were produced.

From my experience I can tell you that an "off the shelf" screen frame from american suppliers doesn't fit a jago body as the profile of the scuttle is different, so tudor32 statement is probably correct. My Jago Sedan screen was originally bonded in with a stainless trim over the top like Happydaze quotes.

BuffaloBill

29-01-19, 04:46 PM

Hi all. Just a quick update and apology for it taking so long but Iv'e had a bad back(An old injury from around 1980's)
I had Wisbech Engineering modify the lower wishbones and supply coil-overs to suit. It now sits where I wanted it
and it actually moves! Mark supllied Protec Shocks with 450lb springs. It will all be Powder Coated once it all comes
apart for painting.Iv'e not been out to try it yet as Iv'e a few other jobs ongoing, one of which is new upholstery
and seats. That's about 50% complete but I'm waiting on PopBrowns for the upholstery to my spec along with a few
other parts. Something to amuse me when the snow gets here......40160

yjohnb

29-01-19, 07:02 PM

Coming along very nicely, looking forward to next update and hopefully your backs better.
Cheers
John

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Knowledge

29-01-19, 07:57 PM

I'm late on parade to this one. Everyone else has said most of what needed saying. From memory Jago B sedans are an English sedan body not the USA body (chip in folks). Front and rear suspension Mk3 Cortina with the front-bottom arms back to front, so those threaded arms on the bottom go back not forward as they used to. I HIGHLY recommend using polyflex bushes (the disc shaped ones) on those threaded ended arms as the original Ford ones fail very rapidly. I did this myself recently and it feels so much better. Steering is as Cortinas are f#### hard work at slow speed but I'm replacing my column with a power one from a Corsa later to ease the strain.

kapri

29-01-19, 08:14 PM

yjohnb

29-01-19, 09:23 PM

Bigger steering wheel is cheap power steering , I've found 17" rim ideal.

Ingenuity at its best [emoji3][emoji106]

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Ford34/2

29-01-19, 09:47 PM

I just seen this thread and you seem to be sorted, but info anyway.
Stan

Knowledge

29-01-19, 10:09 PM

The coil overs are a more adaptable answer but for what it matters I've used Spax adjustable dampers and had bespoke springs made at £160 the pair.

BuffaloBill

03-02-19, 04:28 PM

I was going to post this elsewhere but thought it best to keep it in one place as it's all for the '32 anyway.
I'm looking for inset door pulls which were (I believe) fitted in some old cars way back sometime. They are
basically like an old fashioned ash tray set into the door capping to pull the door shut. I remember seeing
them in a car back in my early days but for the life of me I can't remember the make or model. I want to
set them into the new capping I'm making from American Oak as it would keep the interior 'cleaner' looking.
Iv'e searched the interweb for days now with no success, so I'm wondering if anyone here has seen them
and if so where could I get them? It's a big ask but I can't think of anywhere else to ask the question.
Excuse the drawing but hope it goes some distance to show what I'm looking for.
Thanks guys.40234

weemark

03-02-19, 05:15 PM

why not use garnish moldings from a model A and shape to fit? they have a handle on top of them which you get your fingers behind to close the door.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-31-Ford-Model-A-5-Window-Coupe-Garnish-Moldings-Brookville-Roadster-A342-B/382713203224?hash=item591b7c0a18:g:~csAAOSwi6dcMOE u

weemark

03-02-19, 05:23 PM

these might be the kind of thing you are looking for

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oval-Door-Pull-Brushed-Finish-AutoLoc-AUTBWDP3-hot-rod-street-muscle-rat-truck/123615120543?fits=Model%3AModel+A%7CMake%3AFord&epid=1339249210&hash=item1cc8090c9f:g:m4AAAOSwPg9cTX6Y:rk:2:pf:0

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Daytona-Door-Pull-Brushed-Finish-AutoLoc-AUTBWDP1-street-rat-custom-muscle-truck/253772268122?fits=Model%3AModel+A%7CMake%3AFord&epid=17021706857&hash=item3b1601825a:g:-LMAAOSwXV1bVj7q:rk:12:pf:0

malcc

03-02-19, 07:30 PM

Might have an oval pair of those above in my garage, I bought 4 then turned car into a 2 door. Not sure if sold them, if you was interested I'd have look for you. Malc

mygasser

03-02-19, 09:03 PM

mk2 mondeo? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-MK2-96-00-NEARSIDE-N-S-REAR-DOOR-PULL-HANDLE-93bb-f240k03-adw/222237748761?hash=item33be66ee19:g:wnsAAOSwxg5XyYY C:rk:27:pf:0

BuffaloBill

04-02-19, 09:43 AM

Many thanks guys. From those links, I may have found what I'm looking for!

BuffaloBill

17-02-19, 06:58 PM

Another quick question...........:whistle:
I have a 4 piece bonnet and would like to use just the two top sections when the weather permits.
If I do that, how do you guys hold down those sections where it meets the down sides? Iv'e
thought about using Dzus fasteners but is there a better way? It's a steel bonnet by-the-way.

Just another update on the progress so far. I collected the D.I.Y upholstery from m-mclassiccartrim
and new headlights with both side and indicator lights fitted inside the units. This will make a
smoother/tidier look to the car when finished. I already have fitted new rear lights which have stop/tail
and indicators in them, again to give a tidier look.

Brizey

18-02-19, 08:53 PM

You could use leather bonnet straps to hold the tops down Bill, (see photo), 1 strap each side, from the centre of the edge of the bonnet top down to the chassis.
If they are to expensive you could make similar using trouser belts :whistle:…

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/427-2-leather-bonnet-strap-2-part

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x404/brizey32/bonnet%20straps_zpso8azipkp.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/brizey32/media/bonnet%20straps_zpso8azipkp.jpg.html)

BuffaloBill

20-02-19, 08:37 AM

Thanks for that but I want a 'cleaner' look when only using the top sections.
I'll keep looking for a solution.

martin

20-02-19, 08:58 AM

Personally, I'd keep the 4 piece hood as one.

If you really want to go with just the bonnet top, buy a fibreglass one.

Brizey

20-02-19, 09:15 AM

How about spring loaded slide bolts mounted into the stock hood top hinge (photo`s in link). The locate into small brackets on the firewall and grill shell...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-hood-top-mounting-ideas.698754/

BuffaloBill

03-03-19, 06:57 PM

Sorry I'm late on the reply but sounds what I'm looking for Mr B.
Another quick question.......Can anyone confirm what the crankshaft to gearbox
spigot bearing is please. I thought it was a brass/bronze type but looking online it
comes up with a roller bearing.
I ask as suddenly there is an almighty squealing with the engine running which
seems to come from that area and sounds like it could be that bearing if indeed
it is brass. It's not the clutch release bearing though. Engine is an Essex V6 and
I believe came out of a Scimitar.
Thanks in advance
Edited to say that Burton Power looked into this for me and they said that early
Essex V6's had brass bushes and the later ones were fitted with the roller type.
This is why they only sell the roller type which they say will fit. (JFYI).

BuffaloBill

11-03-19, 08:45 AM

Here's the new rear upholstery I've been fitting for the last couple of weeks.
The seats are from a Mk 7 Ford Fiesta Titanium and the rest was from PopBrowns
who made it to my specification for me to fit.40627

yjohnb

11-03-19, 12:03 PM

Very neat , Looks good [emoji106]

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BuffaloBill

13-04-19, 09:02 AM

Driver's door capping completed in American Oak complete with door pull fitted into the top. Further upholstery work to
finish will be done when it comes back from paint. Now on the passenger door which is twisted and will need the reinforcing
cut to re-align it then re-glassing before further work to finish it.
40873

BuffaloBill

03-06-19, 04:54 PM

Iv'e now done several runs of around 5 miles or so and been eliminating the
knocks and bangs of which there were many! Found other issues too like the
steering wheel not fitted properly with cross threaded screws and a front brake
pipe that was not tightened fully where it joins the flexy one to the caliper. There
was no battery clamp and was just dropped into it's box which would have been
a MOT fail. It now runs OK but I don't want to risk the journey to Oakham without
more use to prove it's a reliable car.
If any previous owner is going to Oakham, I would like to meet them although I'll
only be there on the Sunday. I should be wearing a Welland Valley Tee shirt which
should identify me from all the other members.41254

stonefree

03-06-19, 05:15 PM

It's looking great

Brizey

04-06-19, 09:22 AM

The sedan looks good Bill, keep taking it out and extend the journey length each time to gain confidence in it, then just drive it an enjoy!...

kapri

04-06-19, 12:38 PM

As above . I drive to a friend splace that's about 5 miles away as my first outing...and back. That means it'll do 10 miles . Next I'll aim for a mate 10 miles away ...and back that means it'll do 20 if I get back OK. Within a week you'll trust it for at least 100 :)

yjohnb

04-06-19, 02:05 PM

That’s looking really good!! As said small journeys and then enjoy!

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Gerry28a

04-06-19, 08:58 PM

Just go for it! If it’s going to break after 1000 miles it will break after 1000 miles. First journey or tenth, you’ll fix it! I’ve built a few for deadlines with the first journey was 10 miles, next was over 1000 in four days, a couple of niggles. It got home and fixed it. Just my view on it, don’t worry about it just enjoy it. If it breaks it breaks. The important thing is to enjoy it.

BuffaloBill

10-06-19, 02:20 PM

Thanks for the replies guys but although I was a mechanic for many years on
building company machinery and their vans and trucks etc., I am a bit of a
perfectionist which can be a hindrance as well as a blessing and so I have to
be sure in my own mind that it will not breakdown anywhere! Due to the state
of the car when I bought it, I haven't finished scrutinising all the other bits yet.
The windows have leaked at sometime in the past and I don't want the new
upholstery ruined by being too impatient!! What happened to that long hot
spell we were supposed to be having through June to August? Looking at the
Met Office site, it looks to be a reasonable day for both Saturday and Sunday.
Looking forward to it!!

BuffaloBill

14-07-19, 05:19 PM

Took the 'B' out to it's first car meet at Lenwade (Bears Grill) and she performed well. The front suspension is
still a little too stiff for my liking so will get to be looked at soon. I was pleased with her but it did show up also
that the fuel gauge needs to be adjusted as the needle went off the scale when I filled her up. It is apparently
adjustable but needs the tank empty :lol:so may be awhile!! Well blow me down I thought...
Does anyone live in the Norfolk area who could point me to someone who could fit a vinyl roof? I mean the stuck
down type. Thank.
41585

kapri

14-07-19, 05:49 PM

Thing to remember is that on a B ( or most rods) the engine is behind the axle and not directly over it like it is on a Cortina so springs rates need to be calculated to get correct ride height and comfort level . That's why most run cut down springs as that weakens the spring via suspension ratio rate though most don't know that's what happens , it just happens to be a more comfortable ride on cut downs.

RIPsnorter

14-07-19, 06:26 PM

If you cut a coil spring down you increase the spring rate (make it stiffer). Think of it unwound like an anti-roll bar/torsion spring……..the shorter it is, the stiffer it is.

The suspension ratio is the mechanical leverage the suspension mechanism applies to the spring. The spring rate has no effect on the suspension ratio.

kapri

14-07-19, 07:27 PM

I need to stop talking ******ks ;)

BuffaloBill

14-07-19, 07:44 PM

It is now fitted with RJ Coilovers and 450lb springs. It will be a simple change and maybe only need to come down
to 400's or 375's to get the ride I need.
Just to add to the above...the more coils over a given length then the softer the spring.

RIPsnorter

14-07-19, 10:21 PM

Just to add to the above...the more coils over a given length then the softer the spring.

Correct.

RIPsnorter

14-07-19, 10:31 PM

I need to stop talking ******ks ;)

We all talk ******ks from time to time, including me.......as the song goes, 'We're only human'. :p

BuffaloBill

12-08-19, 07:31 PM

Update again. I bought and fitted a pair of 400lb springs and they work a treat. Well worth the time and expense.
I went to Old Warden at the weekend and spotted a couple of '32s with a different sill arrangement to mine. I would
like to do mine the same so can anyone enlighten me as to where to buy them please if available? Iv'e include photo's
of mine and one that I spotted. Also where can I get those step plates from too? Thanks.
4199341994

scottie

12-08-19, 07:57 PM

blue one looks like a 30-31 model a, you can get the step plates here ,,,,,,,,,,,,probably get a cheaper set second hand though

https://www.oneillvintageford.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.cgi?SS=step+plates&ACTION.x=0&ACTION.y=0&page=search&PR=-1&TB=A

weemark

12-08-19, 08:10 PM

scottie is right, the blue one is a 30-31 model A, or at least a glass version of one, which means the side aprons/running boards wont fit your car, although they look similar they are very different and parts aren't interchangeable.

BuffaloBill

14-08-19, 05:05 PM

Thanks for the Info guys. I quite expected the price of those step plates but a pair of s/h ones would do if I can find any!
As for the side skirts, I did see a couple of B's that were done in a similar fashion. Hence the question! I do like the way
that it tidies up that running board area. I may have to get some made. I'm not that far off from getting it all sorted after
which it's strip down time for the paint etc. in the autumn.

martin

15-08-19, 08:42 AM

IMHO, what you want to do is taking away the look of a model B, & trying to make it a Model A clone.

Brizey

15-08-19, 09:44 AM

…...As for the side skirts, I did see a couple of B's that were done in a similar fashion. Hence the question! I do like the way
that it tidies up that running board area. I may have to get some made......

Personally I`ve never seen a `32 Ford with side skirts ("Aprons" is the correct name) covering the frame as you describe, are you sure the cars were `32s and not Model A`s with a `32 grill shell fitted (a common mod for A`s)?.

BuffaloBill

15-08-19, 07:43 PM

You may well be correct as I was so taken by the cleaner lines with those 'aprons' on, I didn't take as
much notice of the rest of the car as perhaps I should have! Did have a 'B' grill though.

BuffaloBill

11-10-19, 02:12 PM

Apologies for not having posted for a while but we have had a death in the family which has not been easy on anyone.
We are still dealing with all the legal matters and funeral etc.

Anyway, I have seen something on the site somewhere where someone asked about very small 'pimples' having appeared on their F/G cars.
I have the same on the rear mudguards particularly but also just a few on the roof. Can someone enlighten me as to what causes these
and the remedy please. I am having the whole car resprayed soon and don't want these reappearing afterwards!! Many thanks.
On an update basis, the car suspension is now completely sorted and all the rattles have been sorted too. In fact, it's now almost a pleasure
to drive for once! There is still much to do including getting the doors to sit with the bodywork, and not fitting properly as if twisted. I have
a Borg Warner auto box to fit once the body is off for painting and then the chassis can go for sand blasting before repainting.
On another note..........I contacted Classicline Insurance for a quote and was surprised to find it less than half of what I had been paying before!!
Thankyou NSRA :thumbsup2:

Brizey

11-10-19, 08:42 PM

Sorry to hear about bereavement Bill, it`s never an easy time!.

The micro blisters could be either tiny water droplets in the paint, maybe from the air tank not being `blown` out and/or condensation collecting in the tank and being blown on the car during the spraying process, a common problem if an in-line water trap isn't fitted in the air line or spraying in cold or damp air conditions!.

Or, in the case of glass bodied cars, it could also be micro air pockets in the glass or gel coat blistering up, though with older glass bodies like yours they should have shown a long time ago.
Tell whoever sprays your car about the micro blisters so they can deal with them and ask how they would deal with them, just so they are aware!...

BuffaloBill

12-10-19, 09:48 AM

Thanks Mr B. I really don't know how long those blisters have been there having only owned the car for about year and they were there at purchase.
I do intend to ask the guy how he will deal with it anyway. A bit nearer the time, I will rub it down around a few blisters and look through a jeweller's
eye piece to see if anything shows up that way.As an aside, the colour is intended to be Renault Ultimate Red which is a three stage Candy with a Tan
covered Vinyl/leatherette roof, so those blisters need sorting so they don't show again afterwards!

BuffaloBill

24-10-19, 07:07 PM

I really would like to have a 'stuck-on' vinyl to the exterior roof of the 'B'. Can anyone enlighten me how to do this job please?
I have asked our local car upholsterer but they have never done one before, only interior work.
I saw a couple that had been done at The Nationals and thought it looked really neat.

mygasser

24-10-19, 09:34 PM

do you mean the bit of the roof like the vinyl roof insert like on a pop?
neil.

BuffaloBill

25-10-19, 08:56 AM

42748

Like this. Not sure whose this is but just what I was looking to do.

Flamin Black A

25-10-19, 10:38 AM

thats an A Bill

BuffaloBill

25-10-19, 04:37 PM

I know it's an 'A' but that's what I want to do on my 'B'.

Happydaze

25-10-19, 05:08 PM

A B doesn't really have the natural breaks in its' lines like an A does which allows for a full vinyl roof to be fitted looking like it belongs there. Doesn't mean in can't be done but i'm pretty sure it'll be challenging for the trimmer, and if it's not done dead right it'll be, well, wrong, or wronger! Opinions will of course vary :)

Chris

BuffaloBill

25-10-19, 07:07 PM

I'm not sure what you mean as looking at my 'B' roof, they are very similar.

mygasser

25-10-19, 09:54 PM

so you like the side 'aprons' on a model A, and the vinyl top on a model A, why not sell the B and get an A? just saying, as it seems we're gradually seeing that you prefer the styling/design cues of a model A.
neil.

BuffaloBill

26-10-19, 10:05 AM

The 'A' in the photo wasn't built with that vinyl roof and neither was my 'B'.
Anyone got anything constructive to say, like the glue used or how difficult a job whatever?

Brizey

26-10-19, 10:18 AM

V8 engines in Model T`s (and anything else you care to name), Jag axles likewise, fancy paint in any colour and type you`d care to name...endles
s things have been done to cars that they didn`t originally have...it`s called customising.
There`s a photo in Tony Thackers `32 Ford The Deuce` of 2 1935 built Model B police sedans that had semi fabric roofs, similar to what Bill wants, they just dont go right down the back but that doesn`t mean they couldn`t be made to do so if wanted!.
With a bit of forethought anything is do-able in this wonderful world of individulistic customizing!...

42763

weemark

26-10-19, 12:45 PM

have a look at the roof on a 28/29 2dr sedan, they had vinyl roof's, i'm sure it wouldn't be difficult for a competent upholstery man to make something similar up for you.

mygasser

26-10-19, 11:27 PM

as above 28/29 model 'A' did have a vinyl roof as standard https://www.google.com/search?q=1928+ford+model+a+sedan&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwi4--78-7rlAhUL8hoKHcqzCA4Q2-cCegQIABAA&oq=1928+ford+model+a+sedan&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i8i30j0i24.22551.22698..24940...0. 0..0.67.130.2......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0i30.As5p-cM3A90&ei=7Me0XbjVK4vka8rnonA&bih=748&biw=1707&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB750GB750

BuffaloBill

05-01-20, 01:17 PM

Having at last found out what heater is fitted to the 'B', I'm now looking for the flap and 2 springs(1 on either side) that controls the air to the cabin or screen. Can anyone help?
Iv'e found the complete setup in good condition on Ebay at £95 but Iv'e no need for anything except those parts.
There a few others which are not in very good condition for upwards of £50. I know these are now in the 'sort after' sector so not that easy to source.
43281

On another note, the car is in the process of being dismantled for painting with repairs/mods as I go.
It's in for paint at the end of February, that is all the body and panels and will leave me with a rolling
chassis with the engine and box and axles still attached. This is the time I'll rebuild the top end of the
engine and sort the chassis etc. for painting too. Whether I'll manage it or not, but Id'e like to get it
to the Fun Run at Oakham if completed. It's a mammoth task but just about possible.

BuffaloBill

22-01-20, 04:55 PM

Can anyone tell me if you can use the cylinder head bolts again on an Essex V6 please. Iv'e looked online but not found anything and I don't have a manual either.
I have re-used head bolts in the past on things like Transit engines etc but not this one. The cost of replacing them is around £100+ so I don't want to spend
when it may not be necessary.
Thanks.

BLACKROD

22-01-20, 07:10 PM

have a Haynes manual for the 77-79 Granada with the 3L V6 no mention of replacing head bolts

mygasser

22-01-20, 10:05 PM

yes essex head bolts are fine to reuse. top tip straight from a ford main dealer mechanic at the time, tighten the head bolts at least 15 lb/ft more than (no more than 100lb/ft max' though) the manual says on these engines. this stops them blowing head gaskets and it worked for me on 2 i worked on that kept doing gaskets despite having the heads and block 'faced' on each.
neil.

kapri

22-01-20, 10:16 PM

mygasser

22-01-20, 10:36 PM

Yup, twas what I always did and for good measure a decent coat of sprerex on both faces of the gasket would also help.
yes mate, most yank 'rebuild' books say spray head gaskets with aluminum paint. i use silver wheels, a couple of coats allowed to dry before use and not had a blown gasket yet.

BuffaloBill

23-01-20, 09:05 AM

Thanks guys. Iv'e not heard about this spraying the gaskets with aluminium paint before!
How does that work? Iv'e always put a very thin smear of GT85 on both sides.
I read somewhere to tighten the bolts to around 90ft/lb's in 3 stages?

mygasser

23-01-20, 09:56 PM

90lb/ft would do it, i usually go to 100. i've also used wellseal on gaskets with good success, smells like s**t though.
neil.

BuffaloBill

01-02-20, 12:46 PM

Does anyone have any idea what this is all about? When I took the fuel tank off, there was this scraping noise
coming from in the tank. This is what I found. They are non-magnetic and not stainless so is it some sort of
lead replacement? Iv'e never come across this before.
43431

nigelh

01-02-20, 02:08 PM

From memory they were a gimmick. Sold so you could use unleaded in an older vehicle. The theory being they supplied the lead.

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BuffaloBill

02-02-20, 02:35 PM

43437
Thanks Nigel.
One more question if I may.
What does this do? It consists of 2 small pipes coming out of what looks like a valve set into the inlet manifold through to the water jacket.
It has a connecting pipe from 1 outlet to the other and appears to be washer bottle piping. Iv'e got the Scimitar manual but I can't find any
mention of it no-where. Iv'e never come across one before and several people who have been in the motor trade for over 50yrs don't know either.
Maybe someone on here can enlighten me please. It's an Essex V6 from a Reliant Scimitar.

kapri

02-02-20, 06:25 PM

BuffaloBill

27-02-20, 09:56 AM

Thanks Kapri. Sorry for the late reply but I've been getting the car ready to go to the spray shop.
It went last Tuesday morning and will take around 6 weeks. Iv'e done away with that valve and
put in a blanking plug to tidy things up. I picked up the radiator yesterday after having a new core
fitted and generally a clean-up and tested. Open wallet surgery springs to mid :( Better now than later.
43690

BuffaloBill

08-03-20, 05:00 PM

Hopefully someone can answer this for me! I'm changing the manual gearbox for a Borg Warner Auto and although everything seems to swap
over OK, the spigot on the Torque Converter is 19mm where the manual one was 15mm. Iv'e looked just about everywhere for a new
crankshaft bearing but can't find one anywhere. I have the Scimitar workshop manual but it shows next to nothing.
So, the question is, does it need a bearing there as the flexy plate will hold the T/C in place at the engine end and the gearbox will hold it
at that end and so it should stay aligned(in my view). Has anyone any knowledge or fitted the torque converter to an Essex V6?
I don't know where else to ask.

harvey

08-03-20, 07:08 PM

It will need to have a spigot bearing fitted.

mygasser

08-03-20, 10:37 PM

it won't be a bearing but a sleeve/spacer to hold the 'spigot' of the converter central in the crank. the converter spins at crank speed so doesn't need a bearing.
neil.

BuffaloBill

09-03-20, 08:31 AM

2 Contrasting thoughts there then.
I'll look at not fitting one when I assemble it in a few days time.
Thanks for the thoughts guys.

rem

09-03-20, 12:45 PM

It might technically be a 'bearing' as the flex plate can flex(!) so there could be a small amount of movement of the spigot in the bush.

BuffaloBill

09-03-20, 03:00 PM

Hi. Rem. There is no spigot bush just the bearing for the manual box which is 15mm dia. compared to the 19mm on the TC.
I can't find any info on either a bush or bearing for the fitting of an auto box, hence the question.

BuffaloBill

29-05-20, 07:29 PM

Right. Got a bit of a problem that hopefully someone can help with? I have a Mk3 Cortina steering column with all the switches etc but I can't seem to sort the wiring out from the Ign switch!
Iv'e included a photo if anyone can help identify which wire goes where. Iv'e had my multimeter on it the whole afternoon with no success. I can't finish any more wiring until this bit is sorted!!
45427 I can't seem to find anything online either.

scottie

29-05-20, 07:54 PM

my mk3 manual has a rubbish diagram, but usually with this age of ford, red is live from battery, black looks like it goes to the starter , black/yellow should be positive with the ignition on , grey should also be live with ignition on and would have went to the light switch

mygasser

29-05-20, 10:24 PM

2 Contrasting thoughts there then.
I'll look at not fitting one when I assemble it in a few days time.
Thanks for the thoughts guys.
it'll definately need something to keep the converter spigot located centrally in the crankshaft. an ally or bronze bush will be fine but it needs one. as i said it needn't be a bearing as the converter does not spin AT ALL in the crankshaft, it's just to locate it and hold it central. the converter bolts/nuts and studs aren't a tight enough fit in the flex plate holes to centralise it properly.
neil.

Captain Scarlet

30-05-20, 08:57 AM

Yes to above ,if the converter is not held central in the crank it will crack the flexplate.
and make sure the converter spigot is not tight in the bush as the converter moves in and out slightly hence the term “flex plate” ,but not loose either, a fit with no play and smear some height temp lube around there.

engine to bell housing dowels are also as important on auto’s ,along with flat mounting faces.

BuffaloBill

31-05-20, 07:53 AM

Cheers for that info. It turns out that Red is live in to the switch, black/yellow goes to the solenoid, black is ign. live as is the grey.

BuffaloBill

04-08-20, 05:17 PM

Well, it's been a bit of slog but she's done now and had one shakedown run which showed up a couple of faults which I've put right so she's now ready for shakedown 2!! 4610746106

BuffaloBill

18-08-20, 08:43 AM

Does anyone have a kickdown linkage to fit a Weber 38Dgas Carb please?
Can't seem to find one anywhere.

Captain Scarlet

18-08-20, 09:37 AM

Does anyone have a kickdown linkage to fit a Weber 38Dgas Carb please?
Can't seem to find one anywhere.

Hopefully you had some kind of 'kickdown ' cable on it Bill,it controls the line pressure in the gearbox, don't drive it without it,or the gearbox will die,maybe someone has already told you or you know .

mygasser

18-08-20, 10:29 AM

on the ford autos that were fitted to essex v6's you didn't 'have' to connect the kickdown cable as it was only a kickdown cable (no line pressure control). that's the c4 and c3 boxes. you have a borg warner auto, i know i've had rover v8's with borg warner boxes that didn't have the kickdown connected so the same applies to them too. a kickdown/tv cable was only used on cologne v6's with the aod 4 speed overdrive box.
neil.

BuffaloBill

18-08-20, 03:21 PM

There is a cable already connected in the gearbox but no bracket on the carb bracket as it had a manual before the rebuild.
It works and goes Okay but it takes time for it to realise that it needs to change down coming out of roundabouts for instance.
I have a Scimitar workshop manual(Which is what the engine came out of) showing the bracket but if anyone had one to sell
it would save me time. Thanks for the replies so far.

Morris460

18-08-20, 03:23 PM

C4 is a kick down Neil not a line pressure control. You've had too much Mopar exposure:D

rocker

18-08-20, 06:06 PM

:nsra:NICE JOB BILL ...WELL DONE BUDDY...

mygasser

18-08-20, 10:19 PM

C4 is a kick down Neil not a line pressure control. You've had too much Mopar exposure:D
that's what i said, c4, c3 and borg warner are kickdown only. they don't control line pressure. read what i said again mate :whistle::lol:
neil.

harvey

19-08-20, 04:32 PM

Borg Warner cables do control line pressure.

mygasser

19-08-20, 08:07 PM

Borg Warner cables do control line pressure.

i stand corrected, i must've been lucky with mine then.
ford c3 and c4 are just kickdown for certain though.
neil.

harvey

19-08-20, 08:13 PM

i stand corrected, i must've been lucky with mine then.

You must have kept off the loud pedal! With the cable disconnected they change up ridiculously early, and slip and judder under wide throttle openings.

Captain Scarlet

19-08-20, 09:41 PM

kapri

20-08-20, 12:09 PM

Yup.

And as you have changed the box to auto, please be sure to wire up the start inhibit switch Bill,seen far to many think they will be ok, but it nearly always ends in tears.
You may already know Bill,but for anyone looking in who has not connected it,it's about time we had another reminder on here,the crash WILL eventually happen if it's not connected.

To be doubly sure I wire the power to the inhibitor through the brake light switch .

C3 can be a bit confusing in that the inhibit switch uses one terminal to earth the starter relay but the other two terminals are power in , and then out to reverse lights.

4 terminal inhibiti is Borg Warner box with 4 terminals a simply power through one pair to inhibit, other through to reverse lights.

BuffaloBill

20-08-20, 04:07 PM

The inhibit switch hasn't worked but the stop light side does. The switch was faulty and the replacement arrived today :thumbsup2:
That'll be fitted at the same time as the kickdown.

BuffaloBill

25-08-20, 04:51 PM

Iv'e now fitted the inhibitor switch and seems to be working ok. As for that kickdown cable.....I made a bracket for it
and connected it all up and it pulls the cable OK but it won't return unless I push it back with my fingers. I assume
that to fit a new cable, I'll have to drop the gearbox sump for that? What sort of a job is it?

harvey

25-08-20, 05:30 PM

As for that kickdown cable.....I made a bracket for it
and connected it all up and it pulls the cable OK but it won't return unless I push it back with my fingers. I assume
that to fit a new cable, I'll have to drop the gearbox sump for that? What sort of a job is it?

The cam inside the box should have a return spring on it, which if in place and the cable won't return then the cable must be sticky, possibly frayed on the inner cable catching on the outer. The sump does have to be removed, and the inner cable unhooked from the cam, and the outer has to be unscrewed from the casing, which is easy if you have enough room around it. With the sump off, setting the cable is easy.

BuffaloBill

25-08-20, 07:20 PM

Cheers Harvey. The cable moves 'fairly' easily if held in an almost straight line, I.E upwards, and a spring 'pull' can be felt so assume that's OK.
Iv'e trickled 3in1 oil down the cable but it is still a bit sticky so looks as if I will have to replace it. It hadn't been used for some time having
been at a breakers yard so maybe it's slightly rusty and a bit of use may free it up. I'll look into maybe attaching a small spring to the cable stop
for now and see if that does it. If not, I'll replace it when it comes off the road for the winter.
As an aside to this, when I pull the inner cable there is no resistance for maybe the first 25mm or thereabouts then pulling further the return
spring can be felt. Does that sound about right? If so, does the throttle lever need to pull it for the full distance or just the return spring distance?
Sorry for asking all this but with having to make the bracketry myself, I have no measurements to go on.

harvey

25-08-20, 07:29 PM

The extra resistance you feel is probably as the cam goes past the "kickdown" point in it's travel. It can be difficult making your own bracketry, as you need the lever to not hold the valve open at idle, but move the cable the right distance to get kickdown, and not travel so far that the kickdown cable ends up being pulled past its maximum travel, and acting as a throttle stop.

mygasser

25-08-20, 10:39 PM

the kickdown cable needs to be pulled it's full travel when the throttle is at full travel, so both reach full travel at the same time.
neil.

Happydaze

26-08-20, 08:46 AM

the kickdown cable needs to be pulled it's full travel when the throttle is at full travel, so both reach full travel at the same time.
neil.

Yeah, but that's not to say the action is necessarily linear. Not sure about this particular application but with a th350 for instance the cable requires a short tug of about an inch at the end of the throttle travel, as it becomes fully open. Seen this achieved with a slotted cable end that allows the cable to be undisturbed in routine operation but the end of the slot is reached toward WOT and the cable is then pulled. Seen the same achieved with an extended cable with a solderless nipple - when the excess cable is exhausted the cable gets pulled.

Chris

BuffaloBill

26-08-20, 07:28 PM

Right then. After some serious investigation today........It would appear that in it's previous life the cable must have been subject
to some serious heat! There is a slight melted mark on the cable about halfway down it's length. If I apply some heat with the
heat gun, then it all moves freely and the cable returns the whole way and I can feel the spring resistance for it's whole travel. When it
cools down again it gets slightly 'notchy' and sticks. No amount of tinkering would get it to run free when cold. It seems that a new
cable is the only way to go but I'm having trouble locating the correct one. Some come which appear to push into the gearbox where
mine is a screw fitting and on the carb end there is a locating pin to bolt into a bracket (I assume) where mine again has two lock
nuts on the threaded part of the cable end. Anyone help at all?
Thanks in advance.

harvey

26-08-20, 07:41 PM

All BW35 cables screw into the box in exactly the same way. Give these people a call:

https://jpat.co.uk/index.html

If you remove the cable and send it to them they will make one to the pattern.

The chances are the cable got too close to the exhaust at some point in its life.

Ford34/2

26-08-20, 10:01 PM

Speedy could help you as well:::
https://speedycables.com/

Stan

BuffaloBill

30-10-20, 04:34 PM

First, Sorry that this reply is so late but Iv'e been busy on the car, garden, house etc.
I fitted a new cable from Roverpart in London, a very helpful guy, so all is well at last.
A new question for you.....I was given a pair of the large Ford Twolamp headlights by
the guy I bought the car from and I intend to fit these over the winter. The problem is
that there are no mounting 'cups' for them. I believe that is because the mounting bar
has them built in? Any idea where I can get a couple or does anyone on here have
some that they would sell me please. Can't find any on the interweb anywhere.
One other quickie......how do I rejuvenate the whitewalls on my tyres? They have hardly
done any milage (less than a 1000) but washing/brushing doesn't cut the mustard.

dwgunn159

30-10-20, 06:53 PM

I’ve been told cif.cleans up whitewalls.

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mygasser

30-10-20, 10:52 PM

a clean white cloth and cellulose thinners will clean the whitewalls. you really only get one wipe then you have to turn the cloth or the grime is reapplied further round, lol.
neil.

Japchris

31-10-20, 01:42 PM

Brillo pads to clean whitewalls every time.

MisteR Tee

31-10-20, 04:00 PM

This is what you need.

https://cdn3.volusion.com/tqprk.sdvea/v/vspfiles/photos/RSC-62143A-2.jpg

BuffaloBill

19-11-20, 04:54 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies. As for the light bar, I'm not sure if it would be a direct replacement, hole centre wise.
I certainly have no intention to re-drill the front wings now I've as good as finished the car!
One other thing though, the steering column is from a Mk3 Cortina and there is around 4mm of play when turning
the wheel from side-to-side(gently) but there's no movement whatsoever at the bottom. There's also no up and down
or side-to-side movement at the wheel. Looking at the workshop manual for the Mk3, it shows a solid shaft all the
way through so where is the play coming from? I've removed the wheel and boss and clamped mole grips direct to the
shaft and there's still play but again, none at the other end where it comes out the tube! I'm at a complete loss as to
the cause. Has anyone had one of these columns apart? I don't want to go through with a complete removal without
knowing that I can sort it. It's a big job.
It rattles a bit when driving down the road and is annoying me to the point of it being on my mind every time I drive it!
I knew it had a small amount of play when I re-assembled the car but thought it would be ok and not be so annoying.
Thanks in advance :thumbsup2:

Holmsey

19-11-20, 06:18 PM

Thanks for the updates, the photos of it painted look great. I will show Pudzz as I'm sure he will be pleased it's in good hands.

Not sure if I told you how he ended up with it. But if not here goes ;o)
We were at Pickering Steam Gathering years ago and we were walking round the auto jumble area. The guy selling it was a seasoned autojumble seller, with all sorts of old stuff, including a nice twin wheel Model A truck, a few other old cars and this. I thought is was a genuine 32 Sedan at first. But as we looked round it, I saw the cortina running gear and the V6. He gave us the keys and we had a good drive round. It drove beautiful, real smooth, no klunks bangs nothing just a nice drive.
A deal was struck and we picked it up a week later from his yard over Yorkshire way, he was in the haulage business a real nice genuine guy. I sourced some steel wheels for it from America, as the wheels that were on it were terrible.
Pudzz looked after it meticulously never a speck of rust underneath and was always polished up, he drove it everywhere and christened it " El B4stardo". ( swear word filter)

The engine got a bit tired and we managed to get another V6 from a guy called Toad (Well known on here at the time) it was a stage three tuned V6. After plenty more fun in it he decided to sell it and a guy who was at the Hot Rod Drags bought it. That was the last we heard of it until you posted on here.

We were told it was a Jethro body not Jago though. A Guy called Chris Walker seemed to know the car and it was owned and I think originally built by someone called Jack indestructible lad from Manchester so I'm led to believe.
You are doing a great and thorough job and well done, hopefully Ill get to see it next season. Doubt Pudzz will though as he is out of the scene now. Though he has been to the Hot Rod Drags at the Pod a couple of times so maybe.
Good Luck and keep the updates coming.

kapri

19-11-20, 06:44 PM

A Mk3 column has an internal sliding joint thta is held in place by 2 nylon studs ( or similar) that will shear in the event of an impact on the steering wheel. It' spossible thta these have become loose or damaged allowing a small amount of column within column movement.

BuffaloBill

20-11-20, 08:37 AM

Thanks for the history Mr H. Always good to have some when it comes to selling. (Which is some way off!!)
We should be at Oakham if the Meet goes ahead this coming year, so maybe see you then. (We used to live 4 miles away)

Thanks Kapri for that. Makes sense now. Just need to find out if the inner will come out without removing the
entire unit! As I said, it will be a big job.

BuffaloBill

26-11-20, 04:22 PM

Does anyone know if the inner column can be pulled out through the top of the outer?
The photo's I've seen are not clear enough and the Utube video I saw misses out that Bit!!!
As stated earlier, it's a big job if I do need to remove the whole column first.

kapri

26-11-20, 05:02 PM

Inner will only come out IF plastic collapsable parts are broken .

BuffaloBill

26-11-20, 07:19 PM

Mmmmm. Does that mean it will come out of the bottom of the column tube then if not?

BuffaloBill

05-04-21, 04:38 PM

Sorry this is a long time since asking the question but I had to remove the entire column and the
plastic inserts were worn. I made new ones which took a bloody age to do but works a treat!
I have one last question to ask now regarding the Essex V6 engine.
The number stamped on the block is:- SC12536 7E12. Iv'e been trying to find the year of the build
but have had no luck other than I found one as:- SC13212 being built in 1978. Can anyone identify
or decode the number for me please.
From what Iv'e found so far is that the timing changes by 2 degrees depending on wether it's an
early or later engine. Iv'e run it at both settings and there doesn't seem to be hardly any difference
but I would like to have it right! (Just the way I am) Thanks.

kapri

05-04-21, 06:03 PM

Holmsey

05-04-21, 10:47 PM

If its the same engine that was in when my mates Pudzz sold it. It belonged to a guy called Toad. It was stage three tuned, low bhp but high torque. I world day out needs a lot of advance, what does it feel happiest at?

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Morris460

06-04-21, 08:18 AM

According to Burton's date chart SC is May 1976.

BuffaloBill

06-04-21, 08:49 AM

According to Burton's date chart SC is May 1976.
Thanks for that but how did you find it on their website? Iv'e looked but couldn't see it.

BuffaloBill

06-04-21, 08:55 AM

Thanks for the info. There doesn't seem much difference between the 2 settings but as yet Iv'e not given it much right foot! I'm still doing small 'snagging' jobs and that is one of them.

If its the same engine that was in when my mates Pudzz sold it. It belonged to a guy called Toad. It was stage three tuned, low bhp but high torque. I world day out needs a lot of advance, what does it feel happiest at?

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Happydaze

06-04-21, 11:41 AM

Sound like you may be missing the point (no pun intended). Factory settings become irrelevant with a modified engine. By all means use the factory settings as a starting point but thereafter you're looking for what works best for the engine which involves trial and error perhaps helped with rolling roads, drag strips, seat back dyno. In reality, for road use it'll probably be a case of good enough, not pinking etc. Opinions / mileages may vary (pun intended).

Chris

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Morris460

06-04-21, 01:05 PM

Thanks for that but how did you find it on their website? Iv'e looked but couldn't see it.

Menu-tuning guides-technical articles-ford manufacture dates

BuffaloBill

06-04-21, 02:14 PM

Menu-tuning guides-technical articles-ford manufacture dates
Thanks for that. Now I know where to look for further stuff! Cheers.

BuffaloBill

14-04-21, 05:03 PM

Update!
Burton Power said it was built on 12th May 1976, making it a later engine and requiring the timing set at 14deg BTDC.
So, out with the strobe and spanners and......YAY! Runs really nice and ticks over a treat. Took it for a decent test
run of around 70 miles and no misfiring or hesitation on acceleration. Kickdown works fine now too so it was a pleasant
run out with the highest speed being a tad over 70 (Overtaking Sir....)
Thanks for the info guys.

kapri

14-04-21, 07:18 PM

mygasser

14-04-21, 10:30 PM

You have to be careful with timing on the V6 as they run on the ragged edge as standard. Make sure you have a good quality air filter ( K&N would be best ) as they have a habit of spitting back through the carb if they run too lean /too advanced for mixture. You use dto see loads of burnt out Scimitars due to this ...and also the V4 suffered the same problem and again , many burnt bonnets of Mk 1 Transits ;)
you're not wrong kev, a mate's silver v6 corsair had a big goldish patch in the middle of the bonnet from when it back fired and got the bonnet hot. he caught it before it blistered but not before it made the silver go gold.