just thought, it's a close run thing but this is the biggest of it's 3 v8's.... so far. it's had a 350, a 351 and now a 352, lol.
neil.j
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just thought, it's a close run thing but this is the biggest of it's 3 v8's.... so far. it's had a 350, a 351 and now a 352, lol.
neil.j
my ocd couldn't handle those too long plug leads so i've ordered a pack of 9 (one spare) terminals from ebay for under a tenner so they can be cut to length.
neil.
Neatness can't be faulted ... or is it the dreaded OCD !!
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
IT'S ALIIIIIIVE! WOOHOOHAHAHA! :thumbsup2:
we got lots done today and there are more ticks on 'the list' which is always good. we have added to it though as we thought 'fit the flip front and reconnect the lights is kind of important, lol. ash' is still out there painting the rear axle so it's dry for tomorrows session. radiator fitting and propshaft making are the 2 'big' things left to do. we'll know once the rad's bolted in place if we have what's needed hose wise, if not it'll go silicone hoses from rally design on monday. oh and ash' has to get an urgent order in to real steel for a carb kit (it's leaking everywhere as the seals have gone hard) an air filter and one other thing i can't remember what......... lol.
anyway it runs and sounds really sweet so a good £450 worth, as long as the box works of course :eek:
neil.
the new rad's mounted and it clears the flexfan by a good 1/2". the back of the fan's about 1/8" from the crank bolt and alternator pulley but as revs pick up the blades flatten so those gaps will increase. we measured up for silicon hoses (black) and ally joiners so i'll get them from rally design. we even found a steering wheel boss that can be turned down and threaded for ashley's red flake steering wheel he got for his birthday 2 years ago, lol. lastly today we bled the brakes, now we can free off the front calipers.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...16-jpg.648141/
A good weekends work [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
yes we're happy how it's going so far. really there's only one possible fly in the ointment and that's if the c6 gearbox doesn't drive/work which would be bad. fingers crossed it's fine, the sump and filter were clean and the oil was nice and bright red with no nasty smell.
neil.
today we got the propshaft made, the new conversion uj fitted and then painted it. then the 'found' boss was turned down, drilled and tapped for the 3 retaining bolts (stainless allen bolts of course) and fitted with the new red flake wheel.
neil.
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165858
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165859
the silicone hoses are cut as required and fitted, then the system was filled with water (it'll be swapped for antifreeze after running up to temp' to check for leaks). the pcv valve and grommet from the old rocker cover is now fitted and after adding a vacuum fitting to the inlet a hose was connected up. we fitted the propshaft and lastly bolted the horns and relay back in place.
we now have the carb to rebuild, the flip front to fit and connect the lights, cut the ht leads to neat lengths and check the trans' fluid once we've run it through the gears a couple of times. oh and ash' will get all ocd polishing the body and wheels..... because he can, lol.
neil.
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165872
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165873
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165874
Great stuff.
Personally I'm not keen on deadlines, but you've pulled this one off it seems!
me neither mate, but it seemed worth a go. it was handy to have 2 other fe v8's here as well as years of small parts hoarding to pilfer parts from which saved time, lol. it's mad that we seem able to get parts in from rockauto in the states quicker than from here in the uk, handy though.Quote:
Originally Posted by taxirod
the carb kit and matching (to the rocker covers) edelbrock air filter arrived this afternoon so we can get them sorted tomorrow and finally be able to run the engine long enough to test the gearbox. that'll also be easier now the prop's fitted and safer now the brakes work.
neil.
not much today but the carb's fully rebuilt and sat back in place. we'll have it running again and set up tomorrow.
neil.
with the carb bolted on and everything connected up (including the return springs we'd forgotten) we fired it up and ran it through the gears a couple of times before checking the fluid and adding another litre.
then..... disaster!! :eek: ash loaded up the box in gear and the fan chewed it's way into the ally rad' bending the fan blades at the same time. aaaarrrrrggghh! so with the option of replacement at this short notice out of the question we had to lay it flat, squeeze the damaged tubes flat and clean them with brake cleaner. then we mixed up some fibreglass filler and squeezed it into the damaged areas, waited for it to set and blacked that side of the rad's core. then refit it and run it again, only a slight drip now so ash' got a radweld (i know i don't like them either but needs must) and run it again. this appears to have stopped it, fingers crossed :whistle:
we looked into the reason for so much movement to allow fan/rad' contact and what appeared to be a good gearbox mount was only hanging onto it's bonding by a thread, doh!. againg getting a replacement this late wasn't an option so we welded a couple of bits of scrap across the 'join' effectively making it solid. oh no you say but wait..... the gearbox crossmember on mk3 zephyr's is rubber mounted at the chassis so we're good. next we trimmed the plug leads to neater lengths and added roadkill wire seperators as the new ones were too loose to hold these ngk leads. now just the flip front to fit and we're done, oh and even more cleaning as everything right back to the bootlid is covered in water drop marks.
neil.
https://www.moparuk.com/forums/downl....php?id=165877
That was not good news Neil. At least it looks like you have got it sort till you can do proper repairs.
Not exactly the sort of engine turning finish you want, unlike the nice finish along the top of the rad.
The mod to the trans mount is probably not a bad idea anyway.. preventing movement in the event of a failure of the cushioned part. Even if the mount was new, quality ones are hard to find these days. I've had a cheapo one ( my bad) fail in less than a year.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Damn and it was going so well :(
it is still going well, the engine's sweet and the box is nice and positive too. we just have a bodged up rad' to get him by 'til he gets a new one. as my dad used to say ''just when you think everything's going good you get the obligatory kick in the bo11ox'' lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
neil.
the flip front's fitted and lights connected. ash is currently polishing the slot mags as he's a tart, lol.
neil.
now ashley's zephyr is done (for now) i can get back to the many other projects here. there's a few jobs left to do on the 38 nash gasser before that goes back. then straight on with my 63 pb cresta. i was going to use my fe v8 i got for my nash project but.... i've gone another route. i've bought a 318/904 combo that's currently in a 73 scamp running and driving. he's got a late engine and box for the scamp so the 318 will come complete with ancillaries which is nice.
neil.
edit... forgot to say another advantage of the 318 is the exhaust port layout is the same as sbc so ashley's old fenderwell headers will be reused on my cresta, once the flanges are swapped for sbm of course.
and there it is back out in the wild :thumbsup2:
That aint no low rider. Looks all good.
Now all it needs is a blower through the bonnet.
G
yes he's got a tunnel ram, 2 holley's and a hilborn style scoop for the 440 the car's getting next, lol. if he can afford it that'll get an 8/71 blower though.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAC
neil.
ok, we're back to the green spangly nash. first thing was to find out why the front circuit of the brakes/master cylinder wouldn't pass any fluid. so off with the cylinder so we could strip it and check the 'guts'. there was a few surface rust spots that honed out in short order and the seals all have nice sharp edges (as they should, it's new) so we reassembled it and moved to the servo. with that off it became apparent the pushrod sticking out of the servo which engages with (well it should) the master cylinder piston was nowhere near long enough. so we removed the adjustable end as it didn't have enough adjustment and made a new longer one. this needed to be about 1 1/2" longer! no wonder the brakes wouldn't bleed or work. we now have it adjusted so there's about 1/16" free play between pushrod and cylinder piston so next is refit them and have another go at bleeding the system. we're confident this time though.
neil.
Thats a cheap fix ...how many would have junked the lot and bought new !!
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most i would think. when you have a small cylinder hone and also a full set of adjustable reamers you can usually make good. i did all 6 wheel cylinders on my nash, they were ally and corroded so just need reaming out to the next size up cylinder kit, lol. the rears were badly pitted so had to go 2 sizes up which meant having to turn up some new ally pistons a bit bigger too.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
neil.
we went to have a look at the 318 and box (in the plymouth scamp) for the cresta today. it's a really sweet engine with a new carb fitted and it comes radiator to propshaft, all for £900. it'll speed up the build for sure.
neil.
it just occurred to me that i've done it again..... i'm buying parts for 2 projects..... again, doh! the cresta needs to be done and sold before getting back to the nash but i'm looking at fe parts..... for the nash. it really is a disease, it must be, we can't seem to help ourselves. :lol:
neil. :rolleyes:
looks like i've lined up some upgrades for the 318/904 for the cresta. a guy from the mma is upgrading his 360 after the nos' nat's. he offered me his 360 heads, weiand inlet and 2500 stall torque convertor. those parts with a better cam' and the headers i have will improve the setup a lot. i have to decide whether to have the heads skimmed to regain some lost compression from the 360 heads bigger chambers or consider adding a turbo or 2 which suits the lower compression. decisions, decisions, lol.
neil.
another thing i remembered was i'm sure i still have the 1/4" ally front motor plate and matching machined timing cover to fit the 318. it's left over from the valiant i had a while back and will suit the gasser style build of the cresta.
neil.
back to the 38 nash..... is it getting hard to keep up yet? lol.
not much but the servo and master cylinder are refitted now, the pedal pivot shaft is too short for the sleeve it goes through though. without moving the servo pushrod the pedal can be moved up and down a couple of inches, not good. so with the retaining bolt removed it became clear the pedal was moving on the hex' of the shaft. we refitted the bolt and fully tightened it which locked up the pivot. it seems the sleeve/tube the shaft goes through is too long so we removed the pedal again and pushed the shaft through leaving room to shave a little from the sleeve/tube. that's it for today.
neil.
so to collect the 318 and box i need to empty (at least mostly) my transit so today we made a 'loft' in my garage over the road to store a load of 8x4 sheets of 2" insulation for future home jobs. we cut 4 lengths of mechano like strap which we screwed in 2 foot 6 inch 'u' shapes to the rafters. then we sat 2 8 foot plus lengths of 4x2 timber in the straps and screwed them in place. this let us make 2 stacks of insulation sheets side by side to get it all up out of the way and still nearly 7 foot off the ground for reasonable headroom. tomorrow we need to chuck out a ton of 'it'll come in handy one day' sh1t so the 100-ish 8 foot stud timbers and 20 something 8x4 sheets of 7/8" sterling board can be put in there. the engine and box would to be fair have fitted in by the back doors but the extra weight would kill the fuel consumption not to mention driveability. it's just the excuse i need to clear out some junk anyway so.....
neil.
boy we threw out some cr4p yesterday! it's going to take at least 2 tip runs in the s-max to clear it all. that's without any metal stuff, but ashley's mate will come and take all that so we don't even have to pick it up again now.
anyway.... today we collected the 318 and box for the cresta along with all the parts for it. all went well until a roundabout on the way home in gillingham (dropping off a scimitar axle to a mate) when one of the straps that was chafing through on part of the engine finally let go and the engine/box rolled onto it's side in the van. we pulled over and some antifreeze was running out under the back doors, but that wasn't the worst part. when we opened the doors we were greeted by a lake of auto trans fluid..... also running out of the back of the van, doh!! as you know my glass is half full so on the good side the fluid was a nice clear pinky colour and even smelt like new. we added some absorbent granules to the lake when we got home and there it'll sit until we lift it out to clean it up ready to fit into the cresta.
neil.
Go park it on a hill ! Not as bad as the idiot with 5 x 3litre drums of paint who sped in over the speed humps on the works estate car !
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
nice. yes it's facing uphill slightly outside my house here, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
neil.
i've bid on an ultrasonic thickness tester so i can check the bores on my spare 352 fe block to see how big i can go with it. it'll at least go to 390 bore, but 428 size would be nice, lol.
neil.
just been looking up manston raceway stuff and found this pic of me in my 1st mk3 zephyr....
40 years ago :eek:
https://racewayhussy.blog/wp-content...y-6.jpg?w=1024
Haha, where does the time go Neil [emoji44]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
today we removed the steering box for replacement. first we removed the d/s header and side pipe followed by drilling stop pin holes in the flip front sliders (so it didn't fall off the car, lol) then sliding and lifting it up out of the way, much better. then we unbolted the box from the chassis and cut through the column close to the box allowing it to come out. with the steering wheel unbolted the inner column slid out next showing the 'professional'' welding on it :eek:. that's all today, more soon.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...60-jpg.648353/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...22-jpg.648351/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...83-jpg.648352/
[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
Haul of Shame exhibit that one! What were they thinking? They weren't I expect.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Nice to see the old picture, chrome 5 spokes eh?
I could never quite afford them back in the day.
Now, I'm trying to keep up......but what car is that with the green paint and the interesting steering shaft? Cresta perhaps?
yes mate, they were appliance 5 spokes, brand new second hand when i got them from an abandoned 1500 wolseley project (i liked a bargain even back when i was 19, lol). the green car's a '38 nash lafayette coupe, gasser of course. tunnel rammed 454, th400, gm 10 bolt from a pontiac gto and a straight tube front axle of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by taxirod
the cresta's currently orange, didn't you see the pics? :whistle:
neil.
the suzuki jeep steering box is 'roughed' in place inside the chassis now. the box would normally bolt to the outside of the rail but that would've made the column a real pi55er to connect up. inside the rail the uj pretty much lines up spot on, just needing the bulkhead hole opening up downwards slightly. we cut 3 steel sleeves to go from the box through the inner of the chassis rail (they're almost fully boxed as standard) out to the outer. the tubes will be welded both sides of the chassis rail for strength. the steering arm will need heating and flattening some as it's dog leg will put it too close to the leaf spring when they compress. nothing insurmountable though.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...23-jpg.648356/
Getting closer Neil, you keeping this one [emoji23][emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
it's not mine Tim, it belongs to a mate who's even less active than me, lol.
neil.
we opened the holes up in the chassis for the sleeves and with the box back in place we welded them in place. then the dodgy bit of column was cut out, the ends tapered off and welded properly together. it just needs a clean up in the lathe now and we can mock up the engine bay end to the uj at the box.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...42-jpg.648372/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...61-jpg.648371/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...84-jpg.648370/
ash' popped round after work so we could check the timing and points gap on his zephyr. it barely had 8 thou' points gap and the timing was a bit retarded. it revved much more 'crisply' afterwards. he called when he got home and said it's better but still seemed slower than the 350 chevy he had before. yes, that had a performer cam kit and headers but was otherwise similar spec to the 352 fe fitted now. probably the bigger change is going from the old 3.73 diff ratio to the new 3.25 ratio, that'll make the car noticeably less 'nippy'.
so..... on the basis i'll be having that engine once the car's rebuilt (again) with the 440 engine i've ordered an old crane cams fireball 296 cam, a set of new lifters, a double roller timing set and a full gasket set. :whistle:
oh and we'll be making fenderwell headers for it too, lol.
neil.
and i'm waiting for postage costs from the states (ebay) on a nos lunati voodoo cam and new lifters for the 318 that's going in the cresta. with the 360 heads, weiand inlet, fenderwell headers, holley 750 and 2500 stall convertor it should be quite lively :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
we refitted the column inner, removed it again and cut the outer back closer to the bulkhead as we'd forgotten to do it :whistle:. then refitted the inner.... again, slid the splined shaft up in the outer alongside the inner and pushed it into the uj on the box. now we could measure where to cut the splined shaft allowing about 2" to turn down in the lathe so it'd fit inside the hollow inner column to be welded. with the inner removed.... again :rolleyes: it was welded to the section of splined shaft that we'd by now turned down. last job before final assembly was to turn a polybush to go snugly in the outer column and over the inner column. this wasn't needed to be honest as there's only the 1 uj which is at the box but as always 'belt and braces' is the order of the day. so it all went together finally, the steering wheel boss was bolted back to the green flake wheel (what else, lol) and then refitted to the column with the addition of a brass thrust washer between it and the column (belt and braces, remember).
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...24-jpg.648408/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...85-jpg.648409/
Nice work [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
Aye, well tidy.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
thanks :thumbs_up_smiley:
more soon, neil.
that's the steering all mocked up and part built then. i've got to wait for some l/h thread 'rose' joints, locknuts, threaded inserts and top hat spacers to arrive wednesday now as the ones i thought were 2 right and 2 left were all r/h thread, doh! we mocked up with them to get it all sorted and welded the inserts into 1 end of each bar. last job was to extend the pass' side steering arm by adding the end from a second arm. this now is like the 2 hole ones old fords came with. we could've stacked the joints 1 above and 1 below the arm (as i did with my anglia) but both arms have been shortened so the box put the tyres into the leaf springs before getting to full lock so wasn't going to work. all sorted now though.
while waiting for bits we'll remount the line lock valve, replumb it and finally bleed the brakes. that only leaves sorting vacuum for the th400's vacuum modulator valve which'll entail removing the back carb and spacer so it can be drilled without getting swarf in the manifold.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...25-jpg.648415/
My OCD is strugling a bit with that bench :whistle:
cheeky bu66er! we tidied it up before starting today ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
anyway it's all good 'stock' and right to hand too :lol:
today we remounted the linelock valve and remade the brake pipes (again). the brake pedal fits on a large hex' on the pivot and this hex part was too long so when the pedal retaining bolt was tight the pedal still 'wiggled' which over time would wear more and more..... not good. so we trimmed it back about 1.5 mm which allowed the pedal to be held tight. next... try bleeding the brakes again. this time we got fluid coming to the front of the system, unfortunately before it got to the calipers it was dribbling from the 't' piece fitting. turns out this was the wrong part so was never going to seal, doh! it must be about the only part of the brake plumbing we haven't changed except the front flexis now. so... lets try bleeding.... again. this time the whole system bled as it should and we have a firm pedal. the next problem is the cut n shut pedal touches the inside of the 'a' panel/post and the throttle rod just as you get to the point where the brakes start to work..... ffs! so that's another job then...... we then moved to the vacuum modulator supply for the th400 box. we drilled and tapped the rear carb spacer for a 1/8 npt to 3/8 unf male brake fitting so we could make a brake hardline from there down to the modulator. with a short piece of vacuum hose that was another job done.
so we're left with 2 l/h threaded inserts to weld to the steering rods, fill the rear axle with gear oil and lsd additive and sort the brake pedal to get full travel. nearly there, lol.
neil.
a quick update on the 318 for the cresta..... the seller in the states obviously couldn't be bothered sending his camshaft to the uk as he didn't even reply. so back to rock auto and order a 340 cam' and lifters instead. it's recognised as a good upgrade for a 318 and in fact specs out as having both more lift and duration than the edelbrock performer cam' so i'm sure it'll be fine. with the 360 heads, weiand inlet, holley carb and fenderwell headers it should be quite 'peppy'. the 2500 stall convertor won't hurt either, lol.
neil.
edit... just added a double roller timing set and engine gasket set to the order.
the greeny is nearly done. we put gear oil in the rear axle, refitted the driver side header/exhaust and altered the throttle rod and bracket to clear the brake pedal. we now have a good pedal about halfway through it's travel...... almost anyway. we noticed a small puddle of brake fluid on the floor under the linelock valve, ggrrrrr! after checking we found the 2 bungs fitted to the spare 'holes' in the valve weren't tight. they didn't leak sat there, but apply some pedal pressure and it'd slowly drip past the threads. easy fix though, just tighten both bungs and no more leak. whould've thought that brake connections need to be tight? i mean really, there's mock up and there's f**k up. some people shouldn't be allowed near a toolbox, they really shouldn't. ok, i feel better now, lol.
2 threaded bungs to weld in the steering rods, refit the rods and set the tracking and it's down the road.
neil.
that's that done and ready to go back sunday then.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...2469abcd6cc4d0
Neil you must explain the spring and shock set up here?
i would if i knew why they've fitted coilovers when perfectly good leaf springs are there and just a pair of shocks were needed? same setup at the back too, weird. i'd have gone for one or the other but it's not mine so......
neil.
They just liked the look of them, I'd say [emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
the green one's gone back home now so.... next :whistle:
all the parts for the 318 cam' swap are here now which is good. once that same job is done to the ford fe big block in ashley's zephyr (along with a new bigger ali rad' and fenderwell headers) we can set to on my cresta. it makes sense to swap the 318's cam' as the timing cover has to be swapped for the one i had milled for the ali front motor plate i'll be using.neil.
ashley's header flanges arrived from whengparts yesterday. he's bringing the zephyr back later in the week so we can start swapping parts for more power :thumbsup2:
neil.
Back again, It'll be getting dizzy soon [emoji1787]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
you're right mate, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by v8pop
neil.
it just occurred to me that we didn't get uprated valve springs for ashley's engine. so back to rock auto and we have a set on the way for a 428 cobra jet mustang. installed and open poundages are about right for the cam we're installing and they're cheaper than a 'brand' name, although they are melling so a decent well respected maker anyway.
neil.
valve springs arrived today so we have everything needed to start on the engine. https://www.moparuk.com/forums/image...n_thumleft.gif
neil.
so i think i'm going to use my (all together) ford fe engine and the fmx box in the cresta not the mopar 318/904 i just bought. that way i still have options for my nash of the mopar or the other ford fe i have and the electronic o/d box i've adapted to fit it.
neil.
the bonus with the above plan is i'll have a spare engine and box which is part way towards 'another' project, lol.
neil.
we collected front and rear screens with rubbers along with a back seat and some interior door and window winder handles for the cresta today. the car came with t front screen but no rubber and the rear is perspex screwed in so again no rubber. the front rubber has no chrome trims but i'm told they are just 'trim' and not used to tighten the rubber in place like many others. we can always cut some thin strips of stainless or even ally and curve it to suit with my shrinker/stretcher if i can't source the real thing later on.
also we collected a rear axle for my trusty transit. it's had a whiny diff with a ton of backlash for probably 15 years and it's loudest at about 70mph so really annoying. it's about time to quieten things a lot so that'll get fitted when we can find the time.
neil.
It's all keeping you busy !
Ain't that the truth. [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
we've got the new big block mopar ally rad' mounted to ashley's zephyr over the weekend. handily the hose fittings are the same sides as a ford fe too so just some minor hose trimming to connect it up. we now have at least an inch and a half between the rad' core and the fan so contact there again is almost impossible.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...27-jpg.648560/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...86-jpg.648561/
ash' drove it home yesterday. he went through the town to get a takeaway and said it started again easier and by the time he got home where the temp' gauge used to read 1/2 it was only 1/4. sounds good to me :thumbs_up_smiley:https://forum.nsra.org.uk/image/gif;...ABAAEAAAIBRAA7
neil.
[emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
been busy today, buying bits, lol. first a good used holley 770 street avenger carb and then a new chrome (we like shiny) high volume (115gph) mechanical fuel pump for a ford fe v8. £105 inc p&p for the carb and £23 inc p&p for the pump. both were bargains i reckon. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
ash took the zephyr down to manston sunday and apart from it not being quick enough (are they ever? lol) it ran nice and cool all day even when the track was quiet and he was hot lapping it.
the car's back in my garage so we can do the rest of the work.... cam and lifters, timing set, fenderwell headers and a new flex fan.
neil.
Nice pep up for it [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
it should be, i just need to talk him into a convertor with more stall for the c6 next. that'll make the most of the other 'stuff' and round out the package which after all is a temporary setup 'til the 440's built.
neil.
so.... the cresta. take a seat as this'll take a while, lol. i've never liked the front axle, the spindly spindles primarily. but all of it as it's what looks like a jago 't' front axle. not ideal for a much heavier saloon car with a big block sat over it. so while out on a field trip collecting parts today (thanks gary ;)) i saw at my next stop a front clip sat in the back of a 70's dodge truck with a matching rear axle too. turns out their from said truck as it's getting a jag ifs and a blazer 10 bolt rear axle all on air. oh and to complete the *******ization a small block chevy too, lol.
but i digress..... i said ''what's happening with those axles mate?'' and he (john) said ''they're going in the skip, why?'' oooh! so the upshot is i'll be putting them (at least the front clip anyway) onto the cresta. i won't use the truck's coil springs or shocks as they'll be too hard so some coilovers bought as luck would have it at the swapmeet this year will be pressed into service and a steering rack of some description instead of the truck's box. if the truck's rear axle isn't too wide (i can narrow the front crossmember that end) it'll be used to a) keep the pcd the same and b) allow me to keep the mk2 jag with jensen interceptor lsd axle for another day.
do i like to complicate things or what? nah! just make the best use of what's available. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.