Morris 8

Drill parallel I'm pretty sure is the correct answer. But i can see that getting complicated quickly as the hole becomes quite large and then the Rose joint sizing might become challenging. Could sleeve the now parallel hole down to suit, but that's getting complicated too.

Some might say leave the taper as it is and just bolt it up, possibly with a top hat spacer at the wider portion to spread the load, and rely on the bolt tightness to do its thing. What could possibly go wrong?

I've got a conversion kit for a Mustang II with a special stud like piece that fits the taper but then becomes a regular bolt, such that the rod end can be adjustably spaced ( for bump steer correction). I've never seen these things generally available though, but haven't looked either!

Makes regular ball joints sound straightforward!


Chris


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I thought that must be the answer. I think I'll do it with my rod when I get back onto it.
Cheers, Dave

Ian,

Drop plumblines from the centre of all 4 wheels to the floor. Then mark the floor accurately (masking tape on floor first helps to write on it accurately). Draw lines across the marks under the front & rear axle lines. You can then find the centre of both of these lines and mark them.

If you are able to you can then draw a line from the 2 centre marks down the middle of the car - this is the cars centreline.

Then measure diagonally across front/rear - both diagonals should be exactly the same. If not the axles are not square/parallel to each other. The intersection of the 2 diagonal lines should also cross on the centreline of the car.

You can be a few mm out on these measurements - but the more accurate the better it will drive.

You can also (as John says above) measure the centrelines of each wheel side to side which should also be the same. Then measure the centres of the rear arches to the front arches/centres of front wheels - see where the measurements are out.

i've always found measuring wheel centre to centre difficult due to the dish of the wheels. easier to hook the tape on the lip of one wheel and measure to the lip on the other. then repeat the other side for comparison.
neil.

I've found it easier with the wheels off ;) on axle stands.

i can see that. but i'm lazy, lol. :whistle:

When I put the body tub on my rod I had so much of a head ache trying to get it square. I couldn't see the problem until I measured the diagonals across the co ckpit and it was 100mm different left to right. In my case it was a previous owner had made the floor without using a center line.It made the scuttle sit to one side and the shell appeared to be longer on one side to the other. Once I made a new ply floor it was fixed.
It could be a similar issue with your bodyshell. It may well have a bit of a bend in it. Measure its diagonals inside and make sure its square.

Many thanks for all the helpful advice.

Attachment 60499


Recently I got the engine mounts made, using these (land rover I think) which I had left over from a previous build.

Attachment 60500

With the engine in this position there is room for rad etc at the front, gearstick in the right place, all seems good.
I played about with engine placement, trying to get carbs to clear bonnet side, didn't quite make it, will probably need a bulge.

Attachment 60501

Onto gearbox mount now, popped out today to get some 20 x 20 box.
Attachment 60502

you've not made a roof rack yet then? lol.
neil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mygasser

you've not made a roof rack yet then? lol.
neil.

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That's what the 20 x 20 is for Neil.[emoji106]

Cheers Tim W

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No, the roof rack idea is still just an idea, will probably continue with the trailer for holidays etc.
The 20 x 20 box will be appearing again in this thread quite soon!

Oh yeah, re the issues, I was confident that the chassis is square and straight, re measured to confirm.
I can see the body is closer to the end of the chassis on one side at the back.
The body had a new floor welded in at the back, maybe this hasn't helped? I could try cutting out the rear floor and have a go at getting the body straight before putting the floor back in.
Or maybe I'll just tweak the fender/arch on one side.
Deliberating on that one Currently

good idea to try cutting out that floor. then ratchet strap the body corner to corner to pull it square. it can be done with the body sat on the chassis (unbolted or at least all loose) so you can see when the arches line up. once it's right weld bracing in to hold it while you do the floors. it hasn't got to measure perfect as long as all the panels fit and the wheel to arch gaps 'look' right.
neil.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mygasser

good idea to try cutting out that floor. then ratchet strap the body corner to corner to pull it square. it can be done with the body sat on the chassis (unbolted or at least all loose) so you can see when the arches line up. once it's right weld bracing in to hold it while you do the floors. it hasn't got to measure perfect as long as all the panels fit and the wheel to arch gaps 'look' right.
neil.

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Thanks Neil, good idea to ratchet it, but I've decided that the amount the body is out (as measured against the chassis is not enough to solve my arch to wheel misalignment, so I've gone ahead with hacking the wing

Attachment 60534
Attachment 60535

Will need more work.


Attachment 60536

Also today put in some of the small box section to hang the gearbox mount off it. I'll add some more bracing next time the body is off the chassis.

2 more thin cutting discs consumed.

That's what you call biting the bullet Ian [emoji6]

Cheers Tim W

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Maybe a stupid question. But have you checked the wheel base side to side and corner to corner?

Yes John, hence I'm happy it will drive OK.
So it's simply aesthetics. It'll all be fine when it's done, I'm not shy of showing stuff as it really is, even when it looks terrible!

Cool Ian.

plus even if the rear wings are an obviously different shape, you can't look at both sides at the same time so........
neil.

if the rear wings are an obviously different shape, you can't look at both sides at the same time so........
neil.[/QUOTE]

Hey, that's my line!! Lol

Reminds me of a story a mate of mine told me, years ago he worked at a BL dealership. A very proud owner of a Marina brought it in for damage repair. It was only then that the guys in the workshop realised that one side of the car had full chrome trim, while the other side was plain and had nothing! Yup, it had been sold brand new like this, and the proud owner had washed it himself every week without ever noticing!!

As I said in my last post, I don't just show the good pics of when it's all done nicely, here is the butchered wing today

Attachment 60575

Getting there, but then I ran out of gas, I wasn't going to mention this for fear I'd open the floodgates to cries of "you should keep a spare"
I can collect another on Monday so no big problem.
But this is a NPB for me, I've never got through a gas bottle so quickly. I know ive done a lot of welding in the last 2 months but even so, i suspect I may have a leak somewhere, will check when the new bottle comes.

On the front end department, the axle has these 1/2" holes where the old Lever arm shox mounted, to which I planned to fit some NOS shox I had.
Attachment 60576

Attachment 60577


Unfortunately these shox were way too long.
Next option is to use a pair of Gaz coilovers without the coils, nice and short, should be fine.

Yesterday, at work in the taxi, strange sound, gets louder with speed, silent at tickover, coming from back, therefore might be something caught on wheels or prop?
So while on the rank at King's Cross I laid under cab with torch and found that a load of cellophane had got caught round the prop centre donut. It was really hard to pull it off, had to keep jumping back up to move cab as rank moved up. Managed to get enough off to stop the noise, but still some there so had to play with it today, so only got a little bit of time on the Morris. Attachment 60582

Here are the front wings

Attachment 60583

Only one has a flange to attach to the running boards, today's job then was to add one. I used 2mm steel to make it nice and strong.

Attachment 60584

Now I could bolt up front wings to running boards

Attachment 60585

I will need to make new supports for running boards and mounts for wings.
Also need to get the other side to the same point.

Attachment 60586

Some rot on the other running board to cut out and repair first though.