Bargain .... and a shed load of work :lol:
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Bargain .... and a shed load of work :lol:
ashley's zephyr engine is mostly stripped for the cam swap and header build. just the timing set and cam left to remove. the timing chain is stretched so much i'm amazed it hasn't jumped any teeth, we got to it just in time it seems.
neil.
Hope the upgrades make the difference he wants or you’ll have to put the Chevy back in lol!
It really does make a big difference when everything is singing together
lol. the chevy's gone tom, sold to be replaced by a mopar 440. that wasn't ready so the running stock fe ford was bought and fitted 'for now'. as always it's never enough though hence the upgrades. i'm happy to have it here for these though as when the 440 is finally ready ash said the fe and c6 is mine so......
neil.
BUGGER!!! the timing set is boxed wrong. part number's right on the box so i can't blame the 'picker' at rock auto, but this small block chevy timing set just won't fit the ford fe engine https://www.moparuk.com/forums/image...s/icon_sad.gif
i just ordered a replacement, this ones an edelbrock true roller set on 'clearance' so actually cheaper than the other set.
neil.
Is a sign!!! It wants a Chevy again!!! Lol
You know it needs a chevy, you've got chevy headers and a chevy rad as well. You know it makes sense.
G
i should've never took the 351 cleveland out that i fitted about 2002. :lol:
neil.
i've just bought a set of kb399 pistons for the 318. they're the domed top ones which will help regain some of the lost compression with the 360 head's bigger chambers. it should be quite 'sporty' i hope. https://www.moparuk.com/forums/image...n_thumleft.gif
neil.
re the new pistons... i had 2 choices to regain the lost compression. 1) these domed pistons or 2) turbo the engine. the pistons are (even with the cost of a rebore) much cheaper and although the turbo choice would make more power, to be honest i don't need it.
there.... i said it, i don't 'need' more power :lol:
neil.
back to the zephyr....
while waiting for the timing set we decides to swap the 59 year old 352 valve springs for the nice new 428 cobra jet ones. our hope to do them in situ didn't pan out as the rear ones each side were too close to 'stuff' so it was 'off with it's heads', lol. those new springs with dampers have much more poundage than the old ones for sure. this should elininate any valve bounce which is good. oh and of course we replaced the broken up hard as rock (used to be rubber) valve guide seals too. with the heads off the bores become visible and wow! they're really good with no lips. it must've had servicing when needed, be low-ish mileage and had a careful driver in the 66 galaxie it came from. the head gaskets were still the original single layer tin ones too.
more soon :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
the heads and block fac es are all cleaned and we refitted and torqued the heads in place. the replacement timing set should be here tomorrow fingers crossed so we can keep going with the rebuild.
neil.
Are the valve springs ok with the cam mate or just random? And was the installed height ok? Makes all the difference.
yes and yes tom. we checked installed height against the stock 428 cobra jet spec and we're there on these heads. the poundage also at installed and open heights were what we needed for the cam we have.
neil.
the edelbrock timing set and the timing cover (with new seal) are refitted as is the inlet manifold, carb and fuel pump. we're getting there but can't do too much at a time as it's too bl00dy hot in the garage even with the fan blowing at us and both doors and the windows open.
neil.
the pistons for the 318 arrived yesterday and they're shiny, mmmmmm :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
Push fit or circlips ?
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neither, they come with 'triple wound spiral locks' so floating pins.
neil.
Proper gudgeon pin holders !!
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yes mate :thumbs_up_smiley:
It always amazes me when you seen engines blow and pins are out I think Jesus how did that even get out of there!!!
some of the Diesel pins at work on normal cars are bigger than I expected!
are we talking lorries of bigger? say marine sized big? biggest lorry engines i worked on were the 14 ltr cummins. dad had a few of them, 6" bore x 6" stroke, straight 6. they were a lump to lift in and out for a rebuild for sure...... using a fordson major with a foreloader, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom.marg
neil.
Just 2.2 saloon cars!!! Some of them are serious gudgens lol
did some more on the zephyr today. the engine top end's back together bar rocker covers so we can check oiling when the system gets primed. the sump and oil pump are now removed ready to swap in the new high volume pump. not much more to do now before we build fenderwell headers.
neil.
the new oil pump's fitted along with the sump. it sounds easy said like that but was more involved than it seems. due to the engine fitment in relation to the crossmember and steering rack the sump would (once unbolted) drop about 1 1/2" but wouldn't 'come out'. so the oil pump bolts were undone 'til it dropped into the sump at which point it was possible to get them both out. not too bad to remove but the refit was a 'lot' more awkward. we glued the sump gasket to the sump and let that sit while the oil pump was checked and primed. with the pump bottom plate removed we packed the gears with vaseline (just like with a rover v8) to help the pressure come up quicker. the pickup was then fitted to the pump and the pump gasket stuck to the pump with a smear of vaseline. then we sat the pump/pickup in the sump, sat the sump up on the rack and fiddled the pump up into place and started/tightened the 2 bolts..... through the 1 1/2" gap. we'll prime the system before refitting the dizzy so there's plenty of oil flying about when it first starts and the cam/lifters are broken in.
neil.
ps we pulled a couple of end/main caps to check the bearings and they seem good, all nice and grey still with no scoring.
the new oil pump drive is fitted and the oil system is primed, the dizzy is refitted and timed too. the rocker covers and radiator to fit and it's ready for a first fire up :thumbs_up_smiley:
well.... after the headers are made it will be, lol.
neil.
Not much to do then !!
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Haha, busy, busy [emoji23] Keep it coming Neil.
Cheers Tim W
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just because we haven't got enough to do..... a mate dropped off the exploder axle he's bought for his 32 roadster, it needs narrowing as they do. luckily by doing the usual and chopping the long side of the case and fitting a second 'short side' shaft puts him right where he needs to be. he's removing the narrowed volvo axle he fitted when he built it as he wants to run it more at manston raceway after trying it at the last meet there (he's hooked, lol). he was laying 1 black line for a lot of the 1/8 so there's some time to be gained (should that be lost) with better traction.
neil.
we collected all the parts for my 318 from stu today at the pod. unfortunately he toasted his trans' so was out of the running. he did say the car was performing better with his new heads etc so that's good. he also had a pair of nice chrome direct connection valve covers for sale (wouldn't clear his new rockers) so it would've been rude not to have them too, lol. https://www.moparuk.com/forums/image...n_thumleft.gif
neil.
Of course it would have been rude not too Neil. [emoji23]
Cheers Tim W
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last night (too hot in the daytime) we did some more on the zephyr. rocker covers fitted and a few little fiddly jobs done (throttle return springs, coil wires etc) and the 3 radiator tubes the straightened flex fan nicked (when it bent itself again) were sealed up with a couple of layers of araldite crystal clear. that fan's gone up the tip now and we found a ford 5 blade flex fan 'in stock' so we fitted that.
more soon, but in this heat it's evenings only.
neil.
the rad' is now spaced up and forward as much as it can be. the fan is now at it's closest point to the rad' a little over an inch away. it was still bl00dy hot when we went out there at 8pm too!
neil.
i just ordered some more parts for the 318 engine. a high volume oil pump, a van/truck pickup tube and a set of 30 over plasma moly rings for the new pistons. i chose the van/truck pickup as the car sump pan will be altered to be rear bowl to suit it. this will give more clearance over the tube axle and spring crossmember on the nash.
neil.
the 'can you just' explorer axle case is cut down and rewelded now. if it's not too hot over the weekend we'll fit the new wheel bearings and seals.
neil.
popped out to the mobile shed (my transit) to have a look at the 360 heads we picked up last weekend at the pod. yes they're 'j' heads as stu told me which is cool. even better they have the larger 2.02" inlet valves which frrom what i've read means 340 or early 360 heads. also the chambers appear to be smoothed somewhat and the valve keepers (collets) and retainers are upgraded too (probably valve springs as well). all in all i'm well pleased with them, thanks stu. :thumbsup2:
neil.
we replaced the wheel bearings and seals in the exploder axle today. the last ones we popped the rollers out and 'cut' through the outer bearing case with a die grinder and tungsten bit. just far enough til it 'blues' so you know it's almost through then they split with a little chisel easy enough. there must be a tool for this i thought...... there is now. it was so much quicker and easier to just 'pull' them out.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...29-jpg.648897/
You not running a weld in the outer case after running a grinder through the inner ?
there is no inner, the bearing rollers run directly on the halfshaft the same as a gm 10 or 12 bolt axle. you pop the cage out so the rollers come free then have to remove the outer case from the axle housing. that's what the 'puller' is for.
neil.
[emoji1303]
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today we started on ashley's headers. we have a couple of pairs of small block ones at 1 5/8" and a couple of pairs at 1 3/4" which as it's a big block we thought were better suited. especially as one pair were stainless fe ford ones. so we didn't need the new flanges ash had bought so they'll go 'in stock' for later. with the flanges cut from the fe set leaving about an inch stub of tube at each port we got them bolted to the heads. the driver's side had to have the divider cut out between the rear 2 cylinders as the steering column will pass through the header there making removal and fitment easier. we cut the collector away too giving us a set of tubes to play with. we also cut the flanges from the other larger set (big block mopar) as well as their collectors. more tubification next, lol.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...&optimize=high
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...&optimize=high
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...&optimize=high
we're getting there on the worst (steering) side :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...&optimize=high
I think i recognise some of that. Nice work.
G
not yet gary, your's will appear when i do the headers for the 318 going in my nash as they're 1 5/8" tube, both sets cut up for this are 1 3/4" tube. one set's stainless and the other's mild steel but ppffftt, who cares. as i've said many times this ford fe motor's only temporary, lol. :whistle:Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAC
neil.
that's one side made. we cut the centre pipe of the joined 3 free so we could fully weld round them all then with as much ground neat as possible we final welded them together as a set of 4. we used the mild steel collector as it's longer giving room for a 2.5" outlet to the exhaust system. we'll cut some blanking plates for the bottom of the outlets that ash' can remove at the track (or all the time, lol).
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Tidy job that [emoji1303]
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thanks :D.
the 3rd pipe back looks to have a 'swelling' near the head flange, it's the built in 'kink' to clear the steering column :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
Saw how tight that was on the other pic. As long as it's 'flat' it'll be fine [emoji1303]
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yes there's a good 1/4" clearance from the column there.
neil.
Nice job, as usual Neil. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
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thanks Tim :thumbs_up_smiley:
i'd forgot to mention when fully welding the header it's (now) 2 piece flange was bolted to one of the new header flanges we didn't use so it wasn't a complete waste, lol. once cooled down it was unbolted and had kept it's alignment.
neil.
we bolted the header back in place after cutting a 2.5" hole to the inside of the collector. then using a short bend from said hole pointing back and up (slightly) we could re-use the 2.5" 2 bolt flanges from the last setup to join the header back to the exhaust system. with the bits all tacked together it was removed for the last time to be fully welded and painted. some cans of vht in white are on the way from amazon, they will be here either wednesday or thursday which'll give us time to make the passenger's side header.
it'll soon be time for a fire up and cam bed in. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
the oil pump, pickup tube and piston rings arrived for my 318 the other day. can't wait for some time to get going now.
neil.
that was a good day, we got probably 3/4 of the n/s header tacked together. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
[emoji1303]
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we got the last pipe sections tacked in place and removed the header to be fully welded. as with the other one we removed two pipes at the flange so we could weld all round them and have decent access to do the same on the other two. we then ground the welds and refitted the last two tubes. lastly before a second mock up was to add the collector. then we fitted it back onto the engine so the side exit running to the exhaust system could be made up again using the flanges from the last setup. that's now tacked in place ready to come off 'again' to be fully welded and painted. oh, the white vht paint arrived today so we should be able to get them both painted and baked tomorrow. i hang the headers collector down and jam my heat gun in there so the pipes get preheated before applying the paint. it seems to give a longer lasting finish, i've not had any flaky paint since doing them this way.
neil.
Good tip that. I used to warm mine in work on the big gas heaters we had ...on a night shift of course [emoji1303]
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that's them both done then. next job's fitting them with clean gloves on, lol.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Its alright greasy finger marks burn off. Looking good.
They look well tidy Neil, another bit ticked off the list mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
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not if they're chrome/polished stainless mate, they burn into the surface somehow and are a fu**er to get off. and with these being white we don't want burnt stains on them so won't be taking any chances.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAC
neil.
cheers Tim, it was a lot of work for 'temporary' headers. we're hoping for a fire up later today and i'll get ash' to do a video if he can.Quote:
Originally Posted by v8pop
neil.
all ready for the fire up later on. :thumbsup2:
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Excellent work, i wouldn't have the patience to do that for temporary use, but we know how much you like making headers!
cam bed in completed, we just have to tweak the timing and carb today before a test drive. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
2 steps forward and 1 step back.... ggrrrrrrrrr :mad:. today it started fine, the idle mixture screws needed almost 2 turns out to get a decent idle. the timing was at it's best so didn't need changing. then a quick blip of the throttle and it started tapping followed quickly by loud popping through the carb. we removed the rocker covers and spun it over checking for correct valve opening which seemed good 'til we saw one of the exhaust valves was barely opening, doh! once the rockers, pushrods and inlet were removed we tried to get the offending lifter out which only wanted to come so far. with some levering from underneath and wiggling with pliers it finally came out. the bottom is worn badly hence the tight removal but worse the cam lobe is fubared too.
it's no good as it is so we just ordered a (one up from stock) 428 cobra jet cam and lifters from rock auto which should be here tuesday next week. here we go again :whistle:
neil.
ps yes we used high zinc oil and cam break in additive too.
Bad luck that Neil [emoji3525] Lets hope Rockauto do there stuff over the weekend [emoji1303]
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let's hope so. it's the first flat tappet cam failure i've ever had in 40 years so i shouldn't complain. still i will as it's bl00dy annoying!!
neil.
Where where the cam and lifters from Neil?
cam was a 90's crane fireball grind and lifters were melling Tom.
neil.
Was wondering if you stand anywhere with warranty ect if this sort of thing happens, I suppose there is no way to prove anything.
I guess roller has its plus sided but comes at a
cost too.
i suspect the only way you'd get a claim would be if you had a continuous video of adding the fluids and the full cam break in procedure. other than that all you'd get is 'you did something wrong'. i assume the camshaft from the 90's may well be out of warranty now though :lol:
neil.
that was quick as usual from rock auto, the cam, lifters, lube and gaskets arrived today (3-4 days early). :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
That's some service Neil [emoji106] good luck with the refit mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
Cheers Tim W
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thanks Tim :thumbs_up_smiley:
Great stuff as always Neil.
I've always had excellent delivery from RockAuto too.
ok, that's it stripped ready for a cleanup now......again :whistle:
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
reassembly time tomorrow.... again, lol.
the flushing/pumping went like this. pump up bottle (set on 'jet') filled with petrol to clean the cam bearings front to back followed by drain the oil and filter. drain and refit the filter and add a gallon of diesel through the lifter valley. hand prime via the oil pump driveshaft til we had diesel gushing from all the cam bearings followed again by draining the sump and filter. lastly pour 1/2 gallon or auto trans fluid/oil in through the lifter valley and hand prime again. drain yet again followed by pouring a couple of litres of clean engine oil down the valley while the sump plug was still out to clear most all of the tranny fluid out.
so it's as good as it's going to get without a full tear down and rebuild.
hopefully we'll be able to get it back together and have a 'take 2' moment a week to the day after the 'take 1' failure.
fingers crossed it goes well and all 16 lifters keep their shape as they should've done last week.
neil.
we're nearly there, it's too late for a noisy cam bed in procedure now (7.30pm) so it'll be tomorrow afternoon when ash' finishes work. the new 19" wide blade flex fan arrived from summit racing today, she's a biggun. the back edge of the blades just touch the damper/crank pulley so needs spacing forward a couple of mm to clear. easiest way to do that was to super glue 2 crash repair washers over each bolt hole on the front of the water pump pulley. that'll go on tomorrow along with the radiator and fanbelt ready for the fire up. we may 'hang' a 14" spal leccy fan i have here down the front of the rad' with temporary wiring and switch to a slave battery to boost airflow if needed during the run in. fingers crossed all goes well this time.
oh, the destructions with the melling cam kit say run the engine at 1500-2000 rpm for 20 minutes. most others say 2-2500 rpm, maybe they're being careful what with how common failures are these days. who knows but we'll do as they say.
neil.
We used to trickle some cold water over the radiator to help keep coolant temps down while running in worked a treat