Coming on well Mark. Nice to see someone else repairs things, people take the pi$$ out of me for it, glad it's not just me!
Cheers. Tim W.
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Coming on well Mark. Nice to see someone else repairs things, people take the pi$$ out of me for it, glad it's not just me!
Cheers. Tim W.
Agreed Tim, those mops are expensive. With the mop repaired I finished the body. No visible joins - yep, I'm happy with that.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e635c5851b.jpg
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e635f0c7c1.jpg
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e636182dd9.jpg
Flat & polish the wing next.
Rear wing flatted back to 2500 grit ready for polishing tomorrow.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e898febc58.jpg
And for those wondering about the paint join line - there isn't one. This is the only visible join where the fade out thinners finished. The actual paint joint is around 150mm below this. This joint disappears with the polishing.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e8991d6794.jpg
And the chip on the other wing is now in paint as well.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596e898d72072.jpg
you made a cracking job of that mate, nice one.
pete
Thanks Pete.
From this;
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34593d9bfbbfb9b.jpg
To this - very satisfiying repair. Even flatted off a scratch in the drivers door that some numpty at a show 'donated' to me :mad: as I was enjoying the polishing so much.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34596fd66292ab5.jpg
Nice job Mark, now look where you're going mate :lol:
Cheers. Tim W.
All put back on car - both sides repaired and polished.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/34597505751b5b3.jpg
Just a little job done now - I made proper templates for carpets so the rear tubs and floors are now carpeted properly. Not the final job as the carpet I bought is not that good, will get it done with better carpet in the future.
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3459ff8c1d3aab5.jpg
http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3459ff8c1fe7f37.jpg
It looks good in the photo Mark.
Cheers. Tim W.
Thanks Tim, it looks good in real but carpet is poor quality so wears super fast. I'll get some proper carpets made professionally once it's back on the road again.
I apologize for high jacking your thread with my earlier comments. Thought I was posting on my site. Impressive work you've done (as usual). You are an inspiration to me and many others on this site!
No problem Jay, thanks for the compliment.
I've just had a cracking weekend as an invite by Retro Rides to their gathering as a show vehicle. All the Retro Rides guys loved it and were well up on the IVA stuff. I drove about 300 miles over the weekend, found and fixed a few niggles and thrashed it up the hill 4 times - awesome!! Shame I left the handbrake on - the next run was a lot better and I found the limit of grip on my tyres in the second curve https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/e...1/16/1f62e.png unfortunately my go pro battery died so I did not get to video any more.
Take note NSRA comittee - this could be an awesome NSRA event too?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3Jk...ature=youtu.be
Cant see any video mate ?
Cool.
It's embedded in the page John?Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
https://youtu.be/D3JkLYBmzn4
Great video.
Great video Mark:cool:
Bit of a pussy on the bends though:D:race:
Great video, nicely done
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
Next run I was a lot braver - bit too brave as nearly went off the track with understeer!Quote:
Originally Posted by Morris460
Lot's of people were impressed that it could corner though, it's really good considering the tyre sizes.
Most impressive! Gutsy! What axle ratio are you running?
Looks great, I still never managed to catch you going up the hill! Saw you on the way home though, it looked awesome on the road
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
Johnny, it's a 3.5:1 9" True trac. Reading some of the axle calculators recently I may have been better with a 3.8(?) or 4.11's
Cool Vid Mark, glad your finally getting some use out of it.
Cheers. Tim W.
Someone sent me this video tonight, I like it :D
https://youtu.be/H4tBeP6AVe4
Does look good on the start and swift !
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
bit of a thread ressurection :whistle: not had to post for last few years as car 'just works'
I bought myself some upgrade speakers for the Pop. It currently only has two rear side panel speakers, but I'm fitting two extra ones as well. These are to fit in the overhead dashboard.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8c79774fd8.jpg
Some computer aided design gave me templates to work from.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...a9d037568d.jpg
I'd love to show you how I used a holesaw to cut the holes, but unfortunately none of mine were the right size so it was good old fashioned chain hole drilling, looks like an old telephone (for those old enough to remember them);
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...c9fd7358e4.jpg
And after some time it looked like this. I was not happy with the screw clips provided, so changed them out for 4mm steel rivnuts. The reason for that is the speakers sat on top of the clips so stood off the panel a bit, they sit flush with the rivnuts. Or at least they will do as I don't have the tool for them at home, I'll have to borrow it from work on Tuesday.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8b2e3e183e.jpg
All fitted and wired in to the rest of the loom.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...0641e120aa.jpg
Happy with that. These are 4" speakers - I've mounted them in such a way that if I want to upgrade to the 5" versions they will still fit/look ok.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ed4b72fc08.jpg
Mmmm....new stuff https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/grin.png
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e7d3fdb4ea.jpg
After reading through Phils stereo wiring diagrams I quite liked his unit. So decided to upgrade my Kenwood unit to a posh Sony one with hands free phone capability - a hot rod with hands free phone?? whatever next!!
So out comes the roof panel;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f93a3f786a.jpg
Of course the plug on the back is a tiny bit different to the Kenwood plug (of course it is) and the wires on the Sony plug are too short to fit my loom https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...iley/angry.png so I had to extend all the wires a bit - I ended up fitting new front speaker wires to avoid joints.
Then popped the unit into the cage - and the locking tabs don't lock on the Sony....*sigh* and the Kenwood cage is epoxy bonded in to stop it buzzing, so that had to all be chiseled off......
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...78139e0084.jpg
But it was all fitted by the end of the evening and the phone works nicely - not sure how well it will work over the engine noise https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/grin.png, but I'll at least be able to hear it now. Got to get a DAB aerial for it as well, the FM works but might as well have it all https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...08b0842bbf.jpg
Anyone want to buy a nice Kenwood head unit?
''Anyone want to buy a nice Kenwood head unit?''
how much mark? i'll need something in my nash, what with having only a pinto to listen to otherwise :whistle:.
neil.
PM'd you Neil.
Edit - cant PM you as it wont work.
I'd take £50 for it? could take it to Popstalgia or Hot Rod drags
It's a Kenwood KDC-4057U https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/ipod/KDC-4057UB/?view=details
unfortunately i can't get to either mate, any chance you can post for another tenner? maybe pack it in the box your new one came in?
neil.
Nice outcome Mark tidy new one and the old one gone off the garage shelf.
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
Hi Neil,
Yep, that works for me.
Neil, can you email me directly to the email I sent for paypal? I can't open the PM.
done. :thumbs_up_smiley:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Not too much to report, stereo is an improvement on the Kenwood, had 3 phone calls while driving but all spam/fraud so no chance of testing how well it works yet. Kenwood got sold fast as well, so all good there.
My car has been running a bit lean for far longer than it should have been https://storage.proboards.com/forum/.../browraise.png but the recent hot weather at the Supernats & towing made it pink badly *feeling guilty for not doing it before* so I finally got around to doing something about it.
Richened both primary & secondary jets 1 stage bigger and went one spring stiffer on the vacuum needles. Engine is far happier now - I think it's still a little lean on part throttle off cruise but it's definitely the right direction.
As such I was keen to see what the fuel consumption would be like with it richer - would it be worse, better, the same??? Driving up to the hot rod drags it did 19.5mpg so not bad - a little less than before for motorway cruising but fair enough. Driving home we got split up as a convoy so I drove on my own at a steady 65-70mph all the way with a couple of heavy /busy sections on the M1 but did an extremely respectable 22.5mpg!! so really pleased with that - the engine is obviously much happier now.
As a comparison, the pop runs at about 55/60 because of the teardrop, with efi and 4 speed + lock up and also fuel cut on braking it averaged to the super nats and hot rod drags 29 ish mpg and does it all on E10. Still costs a bloody fortune from Swansea tho !
Hi John,
It would be interesting to hear what efi system you have, and how you have gone about tuning it for performance and economy.
Thanks
Alan
Sent from my 2201116PG using NSRA mobile app
That's because it's downhill on the way home MarkQuote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
It's a stock GM P59 ecu with hp tuners software and hours and hours of reading. Even now 5 years on from fitting i find new info on itSent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile appQuote:
Originally Posted by BBC ZL1
Lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreCubes
Cold last Sunday for the Bagshot breakfast meet.
Minus 5 degrees this morning, not entirely the most sensible temps for an overpowered under tyred (on the front) car! :eek:
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...041961b2d9.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f463990e59.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f373bdcfd5.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...919b5a3303.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...dbeff546dc.jpg
We raised nearly £1,000 for the local children's hospital and loads of gifts were donated for them as well.
Heat! or lack of it.
My car has a heater but it's not very effective. It demists the windows fine but is severely lacking in the heat dept.
It's made up of a Mini heater matrix and a Cavaliar MkIII squirrel cage motor. This should work extremely well, but the issue is it's built into the nose of the car and by the time the air has travelled all along the spiral wire tubes and gone round a few corners the airspeed is pretty low and the heat all but gone.
This is the heater housing in the nose;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...7cca0c6c6b.jpg
Driving it in minus 5C on Sunday focused my mind a little as to whether it might be possible to fit one of the modern compact heaters into the car.
I picked This one as I think it might just squeeze into a place that is not quite big enough for it, lol.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...fb3f0166c3.jpg
It will hopefully fit in here;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...27187d1fd6.jpg
The washer bottle will need relocating and it's going to be tight near the header, the hoses will unfortunately probably need to enter at the top where they will be more visible.
I made up a foam copy of the housing from the dimensions on the website, the real one will be a little smaller due to the chamfered/radiused edges.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...b986b624c2.jpg
It's a tight fit but it should just go in there.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f0e5aa5f0e.jpg
Not quite as pretty as it would have been if I had designed into the initial build, but hopefully I can strip off the plastic housing and make one in aluminium to blend in better (maybe making it a little smaller at the same time).
The plus side is it's 4.3Kw heating and with the squirrel cage motor right near the screen/feet outlets it should keep the airflow & heat high.
I'll have a chat with the supplier in the morning to see if they will accept it back if it does not fit.
Losing the heater in the nose will free up a lot of space for better rad airflow and also somewhere to mount an oil cooler (which is another job that needs doing).
Ooh a nice delivery man brought me this today;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ad63247e2a.jpg
The front panel is removable as there are several different panels available. This shows some very good news - there is almost 20mm of space that can be removed for better fitting.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8a5f87cf6d.jpg
Loosely fitted in place here - resting on the exhaust. It will go up around 30mm when fitted but it's going to be very tricky to make an inlet fitting to go around the exhaust so clean air can be pulled in from under the car.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...502b8529b3.jpg
5 minutes later it was in bits, lol. Should be easy to cut the front off at work, not sure as yet how it will be fitted to the bulkhead. It's a retro fit so won't be as tidy as I would really like but I'll do my best to make it look good.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bdac738854.jpg
Without a doubt seeing your previous work I can see this coming out looking real nice.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure you'll get it in there and looking like it's supposed to be there Mark, patience and ingenuity are some of your core build strengths mate. Look forward to the outcome. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
You flatter me Tim!
hmmm......think I might have invalidated the warranty https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/tongue.png
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d76a57ec5c.jpg
18mm chopped off the front, I think I can lose another 4mm, I need to trim off the matrix 'ears'
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...134e25aae5.jpg
It fits better now - propped up on a bit of spiral tube in the photo. The cold air inlet is going to be the biggest issue. Mind you, sitting by the exhaust it gets a bit of free heat which in the cold will be a bonus. I think I'll have to make an aluminium offset tube fitting - it will restrict airflow but it is what it is.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bd40868d21.jpg
Ha ha, it looks quite at home there Mark.
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
Heater trimmed back now and bench tested for airflow. Good news is that it does not pull air in from the top and covering the top does not reduce the airflow. I assume the top section is to cool the motor so I'll just leave a small mesh over that area.
I've got a design in my head for an ally cover to go over the whole heater, also for a design for a cold air intake at the base from the inner wing area - which is very close fortunately.
Hopefully I can get a basic cover made at work next week to play with over the Christmas period so I can get a proper one made up next year.
Sounds like a plan Mark.
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
The first prototype part of the heater cover got made today at work.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...a2c484860c.jpg
Nice bit of fusion welding (not mine - the welder at work) as I wanted no penetration inside as it would get in the way of the heater housing.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...1e9b893f69.jpg
The side that will bolt to the firewall heater channel. The aperture for the matrix is a bit off and will be reduced a little in the final design. 5mm clinch nuts fitted on the inside.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...45451e4e0f.jpg
Mr postman brought me some goodies today, some nice new black silicone hoses;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...3f2eabb4db.jpg
and some nice clamps for the heater hoses.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...42b0166dc5.jpg
I have blue silicone hoses as originally the engine was blue, but when I built the car I changed my mind and went for a silver/black combo so although the blue looks ok, I've wanted to change to black for ages. If anyone needs some 45 degree 38mm blue silicone hoses, let me know..........
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...da760426de.jpg
I started with some CAD (cardboard aided) design on the cover, the top section will be something like this, it will be welded up but will bolt to the rear box section via some inner support plates.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8b8590c399.jpg
Wedged roughly in place here;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f039ed075a.jpg
My first idea was to build the lower section with a tube exiting roughly where the silicone hose is ( the cardboard section will be about 15mm higher when in aluminium) and will be about 30mm from the exhaust header.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...2a95950a5d.jpg
and it would exit into the rear of the front wing for fresh air. Car needs a good clean!!!
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d8b063cbf1.jpg
I did a bit of bench testing of the airflow with the inlet restricted by around 50% which is roughly what it would need to be to exit into the wheel arch. It still flowed well ( but was a bit slower) so I thought it better to keep to the same diameter tube (albeit squashed into a different shape) to try to keep the airflow as strong as possible as it will be restricted by the pipes in the dashboard & bulkhead as well.
But I had a bit of a think and luckily my new Chinese Deisel heater had some spare 70mm tubing that fits the fan inlet perfectly. I squashed this into a flat oval that will fit around the exhaust header and it will now exit straight down to draw air from under the chassis. This will be far neater as it will be hidden and also a lot simpler to build.
Roughly in the position (it will need to be a lot nearer the exhaust) it will be with the heater fitted.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...23daea3967.jpg
And mocked up in the rough position it will be when the lower section of the cover is built. It will need squashing oval for about 100mm, not sure if I can use this actual heater hose (its heatproof but will need painting black to waterproof it - I can use some exhaust VHT paint I have) or whether to make something. I like this stuff as its replaceable and weighs only a few grams so will need no support apart from the fiixing to the housing.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...851d8eb2ee.jpg
Close up - it will need flattening more and fitting nearer the the back where it is resting. All good news though as it will fit quite well, though it does clutter up the rear of the engine bay a little, though it will tidy the front of the bay once the current heater is removed.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...fac914f48c.jpg
Nice one Mark, looks like it's going to do the job a treat, love the "cardboard aided design" [emoji23][emoji23]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
A lot of fiddly work when you couldda just taken the heat straight off the header tubes, VW style..... ;)
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
MkII housing being welded up as I type :)
What was the issue with the front mounted one Mark ?
Tut,tut John, you must read the thread [:D] it was explained several posts (1163) back.
Oversight on it being such a large post/posts, what's the KW output of the rad or have i missed that too :whistle:
4.3 Kw John.
I had a productive day at work today https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/wink.png
Feeling quite chuffed at the housing with it tacked together. Top view;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...a84f08b281.jpg
and bottom;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...9073c000ed.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...62e1bf39e1.jpg
I WAS feeling chuffed until I tried it in the car https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...smiley/sad.png The vent hole in the base was still right over the exhaust https://storage.proboards.com/forum/.../notamused.png curse word.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...1f8ad2d85a.jpg
Cardboard shows wher the exhaust tube goes over the hole (on wrong side here as i'm a numpty and I'd taped it on the opposite side)
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...7fd3723b73.jpg
With the cardboard taped on the correct side https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...y/eyesroll.png and a few different ideas it's ended up like this. The angled part will need to be made a lot longer to extend beyond the bottom of the housing where it will have an adaptor made to suit the round tubing.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...21cc6c44c3.jpg
It covers more of the inlet than I would like but does not seem to significantly alter the airflow. The backplate will be remade to be completely open inside the 'tube'
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e8def1c3b0.jpg
Looks like a MkIII version might get made tomorrow.......... https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/tongue.png
Coming on well Mark it's slowly evolving.
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
Trial it as is first Mark ?
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
It's already beng remade at work - we are not too busy this week ;)
MkIII version completed (ish) https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/wink.png The wiring will be replaced with more flexible wire with proper sheathing and a weatherpack connector.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8473548980.jpg
I managed to put a small extra angle at the top of the tubing, so it's left a good amount of the fan entry clear. Flow seems good with it all fitted.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...748c0f6742.jpg
It needs a little bit more internal bracketry for fixing the 2 halves together which I'll do tonight, but the good news is it all fits https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png yes!
The tube will get an extension/(possible adaptor for round tube) to get the air intake lower but I might just try it for now as it may already be low enough to not get engine fumes in the car.
that'll look just fine mark, plus if you were to paint the 'box' bit and the lower duct (satin?) black it would make it look much smaller when in place. just the curvy bit to polish then, lol.
neil.
Lovely job, looks spot on Mark. Once it's painted I bet you'll hardly notice it. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
It's all going to be painted BMW silver to match the rest of the bulkhead.
It is now finished in terms of construction. It will be painted to match the rest of the silver in the engine bay. I need to get some more stainless 4mm button head bolts to replace the temp Philips screws.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...37ba9f2fa6.jpg
Ducting welded to the cover;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...76e16be24e.jpg
top clamps.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...7619883cb3.jpg
Propped up in roughly the right place in the engine bay. Hopefully over the Christmas break I can pull the bulkhead out and fit it properly.
I need to relocate the screenwash bottle as well now.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bd55020915.jpg
Looks good sat there Mark, job well done mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
Thanks Tim.
Having done all the Christmas shopping I had some time in the garage today so I thought I'd get the firewall out.
Fortunately I built the car so all the panels are removable, unfortunately it does require a lot of other parts to be removed to get the firewall out. That would be; Seatbelts, seats, gearbox tunnel, steering column, fuel line, brake reservoirs & piping, gearbox dipstick, throttle cable, ignition units & fuel regulator.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e6cc6be08a.jpg
Dashboard access panel removed,
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...4e4a8e067d.jpg
Firewall loosened off,
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...91ca6fe0f1.jpg
I cant get it right out just now as I built the steering column wiring so it can all pass through the bulkhead connector hole - sadly the immobiliser was added afterwards for the BIVA test and this cannot pass through. I'll have to cut this off and re-wire it in the next few days to get the firewall right out.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...216e2d9618.jpg
It does give me a chance to freshen up a few things - the brake fluid reservoirs I had overfilled so they had leaked on the pipe fixings and damaged the paint, I can strip this off and probably polish the aluminim brake fixings rather than repaint as it will be easier. I might look at the immobiliser as it's a pain to use and was only fitted for IVA but it's also nice to have - if I can move the key socket to somewhere accessible (it's a bit of a reach to get to) it would be more user friendly.
With the firewall out I can give the back of the engine a good clean at least.
That’s dedication.
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
It never finished Mark !! Can you not extend the wiring/add a multi plug too the imobiliser ?
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
Certainly is. [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by Fegsta
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
John, yes thats the plan I think. I'll tidy the wiring up as well while I'm at it.
I'm also looking at a second immobiliser socket wired in parallel so it could be fitted by the ign key.
Had an unexpected garage day today.
We were meant to be going down to my mums with my sister for a Christmas dinner on Boxing day but she cancelled it as she is not very well. We have a freezer full of extra food now!
So wires cut and firewall out. Time to start drilling;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bb184f6d11.jpg
Lots more drilling later it was mostly done.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...0fe804435b.jpg
Tidied up the edges & drilled the fixing holes.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...91fa71b6fa.jpg
And all the cut edges primed and the lower section now with an inner blanking panel to keep all the air going where it should do.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...3b7cd97778.jpg
Heater housing now primed.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...c973aa2ff3.jpg
The leaking brake fluid reservoirs have caused more paint damage than I realised, the ally brackets are now stripped of paint and polished up like chrome. The bulkhead was also damaged, so the bad paint got cut out with a razor blade and the areas thoroughly cleaned. They are touched in with silver paint with a brush for now.
I'll lower the fluid level in the reservoirs as I had them filled almost to the brim. I guess racing with the hard G's off the startline spilled fluid out of the breather holes in the top. I'll need to keep an eye on this in the future to avoid any further paint damage.
nice work as always mark. i've got a multi coloured workmate like yours, lol. re the fluid leak, could you fit small pipe fittings to the caps and pipe any leaks away under the car?
neil.
Nicely done Mark, it's all going to look as if was meant to be mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app
Thanks Tim.
Neil, it's not that much of a leak - it's probably where the caps have been adapted for the warning light plungers. there is just a thin film of fluid on the reservoirs (like they have sweated) so the paint damage is where the fixing blocks bolt to the bulkhead, its wrinkled the paint around the edges of the blocks.
It's also my fault as I filled them to the brim and the 'full' mark is about 1cm down. I'll drop the level a bit lower than the full mark when I put it back together and then it's probably a case of checking/cleaning them off every time I wash the car.
To be fair, the damage is minimal and it's done 10,000 miles now with Drag racing/Goodwood track racing, Hill climb racing and Lake district 1in 3 hills as well as some 'spirited' road driving ;)
Another afternoon in the garage today, my new deisel heater making it quite pleasant - 15 degrees.
Heater casing is now painted;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...2c3a9454bd.jpg
Then it was time to start stripping out the old heater, now you see it;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...4964d630a1.jpg
Now you don't - all that space! The two rear fixing platforms will be ideal for the oil cooler fixing. The front one can be for the front number plate.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...170653694a.jpg
I've mentioned the brake fluid damage to the paint, this is the worst bit on the inside of the bulkhead - hidden by the trim. It leaked in via the cable gland (big hole where I cut out the discoulored clearcoat) and a ring round the column flange (column flange undamaged - black paint must be more brake fluid proof). The black bits are velcro for holding the trim to the panel.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d768a82a3b.jpg
On the engine side the brake pipe fixing blocks were painted as was the reservoir block. The paint on these was wrinkled so I took the easy option of stripping them and just polshing them instead. The bulkhead paint is undamaged but is a little discoloured.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8d033dd7a0.jpg
I cut off the damaged paint around the cable gland and just touched that in with a brush. Luckily the silica heatproof coating (the textured finish) was completely undamaged.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...01a6b4189a.jpg
The wiring for the immobiliser is now sorted, annoyingly I have run out of male pins for the weatherpack connector so I'll have to wait till the new year to source new ones.
Moving the heater hoses has shown I need some extra AN10 connectors as well as some new AN10 Aeroquip hose - which is fairly hard to find now? Anyone have about 18" of AN10 stainless braid hose laying around?
Another good afternoon in the garage, deisel heater worked so well I had to switch it off https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
I spent most of the time doing small maintainance jobs like cleaning the back of the engine and the plug leads. I stripped the oil pressure sender T peice & adaptor and gave them a good clean as they had left a small seepage of oil down the back of the block. They went back together with some PTFE tape so hopefully they will be bone dry from now on.
The firewall went back in, but the column wiring gland refused to play ball as it kept cross threading the locknut, in the end I stripped it all out into the engine bay so I could clean the threads and add a little grease as the plastic likes to grip itself. Reassembled it and it went straight on correctly.......
Then it was the brake reservoirs, pipe fittings were loosened to relax the pipes into the correct place and carefully nipped up again. It took considerably longer to do this than that sentence makes out!!
Ignition panel wes reassembled next and then the tunnel was bolted back in. I had covered the front section of the tunnel in Dynomat, which meant it had a bit of black carpet over it to hide it. I never really liked this, the Dynomat did nothing (its 3mm thick ally) so today it got peeled off again (it came off fairly easily - a bit of acetone worked wonders) and its now back in its full glory of silver paint again - I much prefer this.
Seats and seatbelts refitted, just the column to refit tomorrow. This is going to have a minor modification done to it before refitting - to make the self cancelling indicators work better (they don't always cancel).
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...82f208dfad.jpg
Heater housing waiting on assembly;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...6d412347a3.jpg
I'll be a bit held up soon as I'm waiting on delivery of hose fittings and some hose (thanks Paul) One job will be seeing how I can fit the heater valve form the previous heater - it will need a bit of modification to work.
Then it will be altering the wiring loom to get the heater wiring back to where the new heater is. I'll do a quick test with a PSU before committing fully, as it's still reversable at present!
Looking smart already Mark :cool: