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Looks to me like the heads have had the spring seats modified but they havnt shortened the guides, just make up a solid lifter to check clearances, its normal to temp bolt it together to check for this kind of issue. Just mill the guides tops and deburr, it's all part of performance engine building.
That's a relief Steve!
How do I make up a solid lifter please?
I turn one up on the lathe but you could use an old lifter with a spot of weld on it, while your checking just check the springs for coil bind just incase.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Hmmm.... no old lifters to use :(
Could I open one of my new ones and cut a bolt to fit inside to hold it against the top circlip?
Top tip time, keep a few old lifters :yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
You could but i wouldnt take a new one apart, can wayne turn you one up or I will be back tomorrow.
If you could do me one please Steve, do you know the sizes?
Yes, may not be ready till Saturday thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Your a very nice man :) will pop over & collect as soon as you let me know its done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Lang
Ok will do, others have a different opinion :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
I dont suppose you have one of them checker tools to check what pushrod length I need Steve?
I usually use an old pushrod and cut and tap each end for a bit of studding to make it adjustable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Hmmm ...sold my old pushrod set, lol!
he probably threw those all away too steve :whistle:
Top tip No 2 always keep some old pushrods :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
i will have a look and see what I have
Comp cams recommend 7.8 inch for this setup which is what I bought - so hopefully I got that right.
Checked head & valve travel tonight, Cam card says valve lift is 0.47, is this times 1.52 for rocker ratio or is it 0.47 travel?
Valve travel is .647 from fully open to where the top spring retainer bottoms out on the valve guide. If its x 1.52 that that should be .714 plus .100 clearance - so .814 required?
Duh!
I’m an idiot, the valve collets cannot be hitting the heads as the stem seals are in perfect condition and they are about 3/16” thick. If the collets were hitting the seals would be crushed & split.
Still does not tell me why the valves have a burr on them after 1/2 hour of running though? I guess a new set of collets would be a good idea?
Wheres the burr on the valve, on the contact surface ???Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Its the top edge of the collet rim Steve, I can feel a sharp edge and the valve wont come out of the head without me dressing it with a needle file. The collets are the original 40 year old ones, I'll get some Comp Cam ones from Real Steel today.
It seems like the collet has hammered(?) the retaining edge on the valve and spread it a little.
Could be you have the wrong length valve or pushrod ??? Valve lash too tight ??? If i remember right 1 turn on a chevy lifter moves it 060"Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Have you got any of the light setup springs, Real Steel will have them, they are very handy for setting up
Are the old collets the correct ones for the valve retainers you`re using, Mark?. If they have a different taper they`ll have a loose fit in the retainer!...Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing