Like the Austin Somerset. With the roof chop in my eyes its got an American Forties look even though it is a Fifties car.
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Like the Austin Somerset. With the roof chop in my eyes its got an American Forties look even though it is a Fifties car.
A couple of times recently I've had trouble getting through barriers where the Anpr doesn't recognise my front number plate
Attachment 62224
Hardly surprising!
So I made a new plate from thin ally, so it could easily bend to the curvature of the front panel.
Once I had played with a paper template I cut the ally to size, then gave it a bit of sanding with some wet and dry, then stuck on the numbers and letters which were to act as masking. Then I sprayed the plate black.
Attachment 62225
Once it had dried and the letters peeled off it came out like this.
It's a bit too shiny to fit in at the moment, but I'm not bothered, another road trip or 2 will get some road rash on it.
As for whether it will be recognised by Anpr systems, we'll have to wait and see. Probably not!
it's not really any different to the curved plates vintage bikes have on the front mudguard mate. at least you used correctly sized and font for the letters and numbers.
neil.
Looks good Ian, as you say it'll soon weather down mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
My front number plate started out straight, but over time melded down into a downwards curve, but it was fibreboard! Probably didn't help that it was fitted flat against the rad core!
Got a new one made now to match the rear one & glued rare earth magnets to the back so it will fit on the chrome lower grille shell panel below the rad & can be removable for those times I wish to! At the moment it's on the fridge though, awaiting the great day!!
Attachment 62231
i've 'aged' ally number plates with salt dissolved in boiling water. dab it on and leave it outside to weather, adding more as required.
neil.
So today we headed off to the supermarket, battling through Londons morning rush hour.
When we came out of the shop, I noticed something on the roof of the car. "Who has dumped something on my car?" I thought.
Then as I got closer I could see....
Attachment 62902
Needless to say, box of screws made the return journey inside the car!
Good job there was heavy traffic or you would have had people swearing at you. :lol:
Could have got commission from local tyre shop!!
[emoji23]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
For nearly 5 years, the Rubyhas been very reliable, I think that's amazing for a 91 year old car with a 52 year old engine!
Just lately, though, she's been misbehaving.
Some days will not start from cold, so I go out in another vehicle, when I come back home later and try to investigate, it starts fine.
And once she starts, after an initial moment where it sounds like its only 2 or 3 cyls,she runs fine.
This has has me perplexed for a while, as the things happening dont seem to be logical.
Today, she did a big back fire as it started. I then did a compression check and found :
115, 135, 135 and.........0 . Yep, zero.
This made no sense, because apart from the random starting issue, it ran absolutely fine, whereas the lack of compression meant that surely it could only fire on 3......??
So I whipped off the head
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
The exhaust valve on no 4 is recessed in, probably it even notices in the photo..
But when I put liquid into the chamber it didn't leak!
Anyway, at least I've finally found something to fix.
Ill probably get the hardened valve seats done too.
Here's hoping it sorts out the mysterious issues!
At 115 the engine was effectively running on 2!! It should fly with all 4 contributing! What engine is it and what have you been running it on?
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Hi Chris.
It's an Mgb engine, been running on E5 and occasionally e10.
I thought I was proving that hardened valve seats are unnecessary- but I stand corrected.
It was still doing close to 40 mpg on a run!!!
i'd just lap in a new set of exhaust valves Ian. have you priced up getting hardened seats fitted yet? you'll still need new valves either way. so the difference will be the machining and seat costs. the engine you started with probably had it's original valves so 50/60 years old and now they're worn out. even if half of that time was with decent leaded fuel that's still a long time before they needed replacing. you drive the ruby pretty much as your daily and have done lots of miles before failure. all these things make me think my above suggestion is the most cost effective solution. i mean, you're as tight.... i mean frugal as me whenever possible so......
neil.
Ha ha yes I like to make my pennies go as far as possible.!
But I was surprised by how reasonable the quote was, about ?160 I think. Although that could grow if more work is needed, we'll see.
so if they say it needs new valve guides will you get that done too or not?
neil.
I havent got a clue/ probablyQuote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
What do you suggest?
it's that or just replace the rubbers and send it, lol. but then i wouldn't do the seats either so..... if you've paid to have the seats done you're sort of committed to guides too if it needs them. at that point you're halfway down the financial slippery slope so keep going to the bottom i guess.
neil.
No point in only doing half a job Ian, I'd get the guides done as a matter of course.
I had written a list of jobs to do on the Ruby, the plan was to get the Morris in regular use and then take the Ruby off the road. Hmmm.
Ive now ordered new valves and guides, meanwhile there are bits lying around waiting for the head to come back.
One of the jobs on the list was to build a new tank, the old one has leaked from time to time. Recently though, it started weeping again, I hoped I could get away with just using it locally, but today a strong smell of petrol greeted me when I opened the garage, accompanied by a frequent drip sound.
I made a few phone calls and formulated a plan. Between other stuff going on today, I managed to get the tank drained and out, I'll be sending it off to a company in Wigan who will make a replica in ally.
While the tank is out, access to the rear suspension is much better, that's another job I planned to leave till later, but I might as well do it now.
Then I noticed a bit of damaged inner rear wing, not rotten surprisingly, but torn away, another thing on my "later" list. Sigh, OK, might as well do that too while the tank is out.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Now Ive multiple things half done all at once! Working on one thing at a time is all very well in theory.
It will be good to get it all sorted.
Ive been working my way through a long term list of jobs for the Ruby, I dont have the cylinder head back yet, also no news on any progress on the new tank, in Diana Ross's words, "I'm still waiting".
The work on the rear suspension was always going to be quite a lot, but its all done now.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Above - pic of shame, the mounts had been changed, changed, and changed again, strong but, well, just look at them.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Ah, that's a bit better.
The repair to the inner wing was quite straightforward
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
While the axle was off and the brakes needed bleeding anyway, I fitted a residual pressure valve to the rear, since they are drum brakes and the master cyl is lower than the slaves, then also fitted another for the front discs.
Sorted a problem on the OSF wing causing occasional tyre rub.
Good to get these jobs done, but now eager to get it back on the road to try it all out, and to resume work on the Morris.
(which is also stuck waiting for a new manifold)
Now that looks tidier. Nice one.
G
After what seems like ages with the Ruby off the road, the engineering shop phoned me today. After replacing valves, guides, all valve seats, they then discovered a crack between cyls 3 and 4.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
I reckon this has been here for a long while, and with all the work that's been done on the head, im probably just going to try it now. Maybe with some K seal to help.
I do have a spare head, I think I'll get that pressure tested, then, if I know it's a good un, I can keep that to fall back on, if needed in future.
Just to clarify, once this crack was discovered, the pressure test did show minute bubbles appearing.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
I'm bunging it all back together and hoping for the best.
I collected the head on Wednesday afternoon, Ive got it mostly back together now.
When I tried to put the pushrods back in, something felt completely wrong. Then I noticed the tappet covers on the side of the block, whipped them off and put all the cam followers back in! Ive never worked on MGB engines before, when I built the Ruby I just fitted it and drove it!
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
These are normally concealed by the manifolds etc.
I cleaned off all the oily mess, now waiting for new gaskets to arrive.
The Ruby engine is all back together now, I fired it up today with a temporary fuel supply.
I've chased the tank people, it should be here in about 1 week, just in time for the salt on the roads that I usually avoid!!
Well it was Oct 7th when I pulled the head off the Ruby, nearly 3 months off the road.
Finally my new ally tank arrived
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
I got all excited and ripped off the packaging.
However, they had fitted a 6 volt fuel sender!
To resolve this I ordered a 6 volt gauge and a thingy that steps the voltage down from 12v to 6v.
Despite my impatience to bung it all back together and go drive it again, I've managed to restrain myself, I want to check the gauge is going to work properly before fitting the tank in the car.
Both the 6v gauge and the 12v to 6v gadget had arrived in the post today, So I set it all up for a test, no joy, it seems the ancient gauge is not working.
I did try it with a 12v gauge, as I had one with an attached thing which allows you to turn a knob, presumably altering the resistance. I could adjust it to make the gauge read correctly when full, or empty, but not both at the same time.
Not surprised but worth a go.
Now I've ordered a 12v sender, but the 24th December is not the best time to order something when you're in a hurry.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
In the foreground i⁵s the 6v sender they supplied with the tank, in the background you can see the new 12v sender which arrived today. I redrilled the tank for the new sender and got it fitted in.
I did a trial attempt using the old gauge, but it reads full when MT, and vice versa!
I've ordered a gauge from the same company to match the sender, so now im waiting for that to arrive so I can check it works before fitting the tank.
I did a trial fit of the tank today, trimmed up brackets, drilled holes etc, so it's all ready to go in now.
Today, after nearly 3 months with the Ruby off the road, I fired her up and drove her again.
After fitting the new fuel tank i couldn't start it, so I charged the battery and tried again the next day, even tried easy start and it didn't fire up. Strange, cos it fired up ok on a temporary fuel supply when I refitted the head etc.
Wifey came out to the garage to assist today, I was ready to give up and charge the battery again, but then wifey says "why dont you try one more time?"
So I did, and it coughed into life! A bit rough at first but it soon settled into a nice tickover, if a bit tappety.
With only a gallon in the new tank, I drove off to the petrol station and filled it up to the brim. This confirmed that the tank is just under 9 gallons, and that the fuel gauge now works - yippee! Oh, and that petrol was dripping down from the new tank on the station forecourt...
Turns out that the problem was the replacement sender. One of the original, now unused screw holes was not fully covered by the gasket. So I cut a ring from 3mm ally and a 2nd gasket to go under the rim of the sender. I got this in the the car but run out of time, so tomorrow I'll go back to the petrol station and top the tank right up again to test whether my fix has worked.
It felt so good to drive it again. Brakes felt worse than before, should be better now with the residual pressure valves, I'll give it another bleed session.
My suspension feels better, although in fairness I probably need to drive it more to really tell.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
After the excitement of driving it again yesterday, I went out again today. It was a little reluctant to start, but it is very cold. I filled up again and i seem to have cured the fuel leak.
I topped up the dashpots in the carbs and thats made an improvement.
I left it running for half an hour after it was fully warmed up to simulate being stuck in a jam (very unlikely here in East London, ahem) and it was just fine, heres hoping that despite the crack in the head its going to be ok.
it was snowing when i drove it today although it doesnt show in the pics.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Got the air filters and bonnet back on now.
Massive boost getting it running again Ian [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-A556B using NSRA mobile app
Thanks John
Well, it looks like ive FINALLY got to the bottom of something that has been driving me mad.
For 5 years I had absolute confidence in this little car, happy to go anywhere, but last September it had trouble starting sometimes. I did all the things you would normally do, and check, and try. After all the work with the head, the new fuel tank, and the suspension, I was excited to get it driving again, but still this persistent issue, where it would run 100% fine once started, but often wouldn't start from cold. This destroyed my faith in the car, I wasn't confident to even drive it locally unless i could drive home without it going cold.
Adding to the frustration was the knowledge that this is as simple as you can get - no ECU, electrics etc. All you need is one wire to coil, and fuel, and off you go. Except you don't most times! Thanks Neil for listening to me ranting this week!
Here's what I now understand. When I first had the car, I put 3 in 1 oil in the dashpots, now this is too thin, and so the pistons in the carbs open too quickly, letting in lots of air, meaning that to start from cold you need full choke. Once driving, the engine would bog until fully warm, I developed the habit of pulling out the choke for better acceleration whilst still warming up.
Then someone explained to me that i should try thicker oil - so in went 20/50. This made the car run much better, even when cold I could accelerate without choke yanking! (Thanks Robert)
However, as the summer temperatures were replaced with cooler air, the 20/50 got thicker (I had used Duckhams) and so, when cold, the pistons were stuck, and with the choke pulled right out, the plugs got wet and thus wouldn't fire.
My brain had been trained these 5 years to ALWAYS pull the choke out fully when starting from cold.
Now Ive thinned the oil a bit, and adjusted my starting procedure.
Thats all it was!!!!!!
easy once you know how.
I was even waking up some nights with this going round and round in my head - eventually on one of these thought sessions I sussed it out.
It feels so nice to be able to drive it anywhere once again.
phew :lol:
Glad to hear you got it sorted.
I always thought it was 3 in 1 oil, but then that was standard Rootes stuff with Strombergs :yes:
With my confidence in the little car renewed, I drove out in it today.
Yesterday i had bled the brakes, pedal felt firm, great!
But today as i drove over canning Town flyover, I noticed the brake pedal would go right to the floorboards if you held your foot there. The brakes worked if you take ya foot off and back on again, thankfully. I was only going local so drove carefully back home, but on the way suddenly there was noise, vibration and a misfire, sounded like only firing on 3.
I made it home safely, and after ordering a new master cylinder, i investigated the misfire.
Pull off leads 3 or 4, engine ran worse, pull off 1 or 2, no change.
This indicated a problem with front carb.
With the carbs stripped on the bench I could see the needle valve on the front carb was sticking, causing fuel starvation.
I ordered a pair of new needle valves, the new ones have neoprene tips and are supposed to be better.
Then I set to removing the old master cylinder. I remember when building the Ruby that one of the biggest challenges was fitting 3 pedals in a tiny space, further complicated by the chassis rail running right through the middle of that space.
It looked almost impossible to remove (had I build the rest of the car round it?) but it came off ok after a bit of a struggle.
This afternoon Wifey was severely delayed coming home from Hackney, an electric car had broken down and caused absolute gridlock chaos, with the Police on the scene and unable to move it.
Now, my 1934 car may have had a couple of issues, but it did drive home, and will likely be driving again very soon!
On a positive note, it must be better for me to get these things resolved in the winter, I look forward to having fun again in the summer!
More bad news.
The MGB bits arrived in the post, I got the carbs fitted with the new needle valves, got it all back on the car, which reluctantly started, and ran badly, exactly same as before. So it wasn't a carb issue after all. Next I did a compression check, zero on no2 cylinder. Whipped the rocker cover off to reveal this:
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Ive started by draining down the coolant (rocker shaft bolts secured by head bolts)
but dont have much garage time in the next few days.
I fitted the new master cylinder, I went round all 4 corners bleeding it, but then noticed what looks like brake fluid on one rear tyre.
All will be sorted soon no doubt.
I have been thinking about getting a Mazda MX5 engine and box, more modern, more reliable, more power, and cheap to buy. It seems slightly smaller than the B series lump, so I should be able to squeeze it into Baby Ruby without too much grief.
is the pushrod bent ian?
neil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
No, perfectly straight.
A bit of damage on the cup, I've got a replacement on its way, I'll bung that in and see what happens.
So what happened there then? There's not that much to go wrong ( famous last words!) is there? Kinda difficult to mess up the adjustment when setting up to my mind, and if the rod isn't bent ( possibly indicating a stuck valve) then what's happened? Enquiring minds and all that! 15 thou on inlet and 30 on exhaust if memory serves me!
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
This week I had a couple of days in the Yorkshire Dales, helping a mate work on his new house. Shame the Ruby wasnt fixed, I had to go in the Taxi. We found this 1967 newspaper under the floorboard:
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content
Thats hilarious! It wont show a pencilled drawing of a woman in a C&A ad wearing an old fashioned suit!!!
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Any Imp owners can let me know if they want it, I can post it off.
Once back home I took delivery of a replacement pushrod, fitted it, engine all running fine now.
The brakes were a nightmare, and eventually it was reading back through my own build thread that helped.
Both the M/c and the servo are mounted so that they are pointing down, not up, (there was so little space to put the pedals in this car that they ended up this way) hence you can bleed the brakes as many times as you like, but air is still trapped. I altered the angles by loosening both and wedging up, combined with jacking one end of the car. It felt like a big relief when yesterday i got a decent brake pedal.
The bracket for the brake switch has to be redone now, its previous mounting point altered by modifying the pedal box to accept the new M/C.
Looks like it will be back driving in a day or 2.
glad the ruby's sorted mate :thumbs_up_smiley:
now get on with the morris you slacker :whistle::lol:
neil.
Not quite!!! Anyway, Morris is still awaiting its new manifold.
Yesterday, I got a bit of garage time and made a new bracket for the brake light switch.
Excited, the car can now go out for a quick blast!
I started up and reversed out of the garage, but when the back wheels got to the "dip" near the kerb, I lost drive, along with a metallic whining noise from NSR wheel. Straight away I knew it was the splines on the wire wheel, after I got the car back in the garage I ordered a new hub.
That arrived today, but when i cleaned up the splined part of the wheel I noticed this:
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Wow, thats some wear!
Now I'm ordering a new wheel.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Here's the new hub, measuring around these splines there is quite a bit of wear on the old hub too.
It feels like Im being tormented at the moment, one thing after another, but the truth is probably just that I built a car 5 years ago with secondhand bits which are wearing out now.
I must get to the bottom of it all soon.....
They all have some wear, to be expected on parts that are 50+ years old.
I spoke to 2 seperate companies that deal with MGB stuff all the time, both said they had not heard of this happening before, usually there is a clonking noise which gives warning that the splines are now worn and need replacing, there is no specific way to measure to check things are within tolerance. It seems most likely that its a perfect storm of me using a load of used parts from different vehicles. Ive replaced the problem corner with a new wheel and a new hub, so at least I havent got older bits wearing out newer bits now - on that corner at least.
The other good thing about the new wheel is that it can run tubeless, so I will eventually replace them all.
Meanwhile, I had lots of conflicting info on setting the float levels. First attempt had it running too weak, next attempt had levels too high, and apparently 1mm out is massive on an SU. Finally I contacted Alan at Atspeed Racing in Rayleigh, he knows his way around an SU. It went against the grain for me to cough up for someone else to do such basic work on my Ruby, but after so much frustration where at times I felt I was going mad, I think its been worth it to rebuild my confidence in driving the car again. It felt good to drive it home today, despite lousy weather.
one other little job Ive done recently is to fit LED headlight bulbs - check out the difference!
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
At last Ive been able to enjoy the Ruby again.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
This was after revisiting an old haunt of ours for our anniversary.
Now I'm eagerly looking forward to the summer (esp after decent weather here Tuesday and Wednesday), thinking about what adventures we can go on!
Cool! Lights are bright, good. Watch out for the taxis, driven by loonies! [emoji1787]
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Yes, but while I'm driving the Ruby, the maddest taxi driver is not working!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Happydaze
the headlights look light they dip in opposite directions, are the bulbs both in right? it's boss eyed, lol. glad it's running well again now. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
looking at the pics again, I see what you mean, but it must be a trick of the camera, they dont look like that in real life, also when the headlights are on (they are off in the pic, just sidelights) they're aim is true. As Elvis Costello sang.Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
Had a great time at the swap meet today, I went there without much money, and had no plan of what I might buy, if anything.
Then I chatted to someone which left me with the expectation of getting a Ford 302, suddenly I had stuff to look for!
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
I came home with headers, bellhousing and flywheel for a 302.
I've never had a 302 so know little or nothing about them, someone told me that they have either 157 or 164 tooth flywheels, when I got home I counted and found that my ?10 flywheel was a 157, but since i don't have the engine yet I don't know whether its correct, but hey, it was cheap so I grabbed it.
The ally bellhousing is 6 bolt so should fit my 302 ok.
The door mirrors, I sort of had a plan, maybe they'll show up somewhere on my Morris 8 build.
Thanks to NSRA people for organising the Swap meet, nice to be there and feel the winter is behind us, great to see all the rodding faces.
Today was fun, headed off in the taxi, sun was shining, had 2 x SBF to collect, one with a gearbox.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Could only fit in 1 engine and box. Have to go there again, probably in a couple of weeks, to get the other engine. All good fun, I love to look around Keiths yard.
Suspension down a bit at the back, this is my working taxi, so once the engine and box were in the back of the garage (just room to squeeze them in behind the Ruby), I tidied up the taxi, then its off to work, I wonder how many "Is that transmission fluid? / Did you have an old engine in here today? " type comments I'll get from my passengers!
This engine is from a 1987 Lincoln town car, so its roller cam, and has a few goodies on it from the other engine I'm going back for.
Hopefully I'll be able to start a new build thread later, meanwhile I can fix up this engine, and collect bits.
does the box have a kickdown/tv cable ian? if not it's an aod'e' needing a standalone control module ecu thingy similar to what i got with my 4r70w box. if it has a cable it's an aod and has no electronics, just needing the cable adjusting properly or the box will eat itself in very short order.
neil.
Today I had another trip to Keiths place.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Even the grill had rotted away!
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Hard to even recognize that its a Mk3 Cortina from the back!
Apart from generally enjoying a sunny day out, I brought the other SBF home.
Keith said that this engine was better than the other one, but I want to use a SBF which has a roller cam.
The first engine is a 1987 so def roller cam.
But on this engine I cant find an engine number
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
This is where the casting numbers were on the other engine - nothing here, or anywhere else that I can see.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Keith believed that this engine had the little ends gone, although I've been told that is very unlikely on a 302.
Looking at the damage to these valves, I wondered if this was all the trouble was. However, it could also have been damaged by rough treatment after removal - note smashed spark plug.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
I dont suppose its possible to tell if its a roller cam from the above pic?
I guess I'll pull it apart to find out for sure. I need to decide which of the 2 engines to start playing with.
the above pics are a flat tappet engine mate. roller lifters are taller with either a forked 'dog bone' linking them in pairs with a sprung steel 'spider' holding the dog bones in place or (if aftermarket a link bar joining the lifters in pairs. either design holds the lifters only allowing vertical movement without the rotation that's normal for flat tappets. you can see both types here ..... https://www.google.com/search?sca_es...ih=608&dpr=1.4
neil.
that valve has taken a wallop too! You will most likely have to cut it off right by the head carefully to remove it.
ooh **** took me a minute to spot that !
I'm not too worried about that, as I'm keeping this engine as a spare for now.
After enjoying Wheels day yesterday, I realised that the interior mirror on the Ruby wasn't ideal positioned. Also, when you flip the passenger seat forward to get into the back seat, it knocks the mirror.
I got a little bit of garage time today, and played with my purchase from the Swap Meet.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Pair of mirrors, but one was damaged. Mounting it as it was resulted in the mirror being too low, so i hacked about so that one piece slid inside the other
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
It didnt want to weld
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
so I stuck it together
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...igh&width=1920
Simple little job, but better now for vision and the seat tipping.
I quite like the wackiness of using an exterior mirror as an interior mirror.
And i have the previous mirror from here to fit in the Morris now. In case it ever actually drives!