Great work Mark.
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Great work Mark.
Thanks guys.
A bit less progress tonight as I did some work on mine for the weekend.
I cut all the blanking plates and removed all the bodywork and finish welded all of the front end. Got a few burns as welding upside down is never fun.
The fishplates for the chassis have been cut so they may get welded on Thursday night as its our local club meet tomorrow.
Once they are done the welding work on the front end is complete. There is more welding required when I fit the seat belts, but that should be it then.
Attachment 66066
Looking good Mark, Andy will be cruising again in no time mate.[emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
Cheers Tim.
Yesterday I had also mapped the rear screen surround, first one is now cut but I'll need to try it on Phils car (he has no headlining fitted yet) to see how well it matches up.
I scanned it off his fibreglass one, but that was not very equal (and did not fit that well) so I've made it all correct and a little wider, I suspect a MkII version will need to be done though.
Attachment 66067
Excellent work Mark.
And great to see such a spirit of generosity from you and all who have contributed.
Presumably you're working on it in your spare time.....you must have lots of energy if you're holding down a full time job and doing all this too.
Hi Ian,
Yes, all done in the evenings after work. Feeling a bit tired today after welding upside down yesterday, getting bit old for crawling under cars now!
You seem to get loads done too, so we are cut from the same cloth.
It was our club night last night so my pop had a trip out and I had a good chat with Andy & Kim.
I'm getting ready for the retro Rides weekend at Goodwood, but a little progress has been made.
I was painting a new mirror mount for mine so it was a good opportunity to get a bit of satin black on Andy's alloy radiator (I'm not a fan of silver radiators through the front grill).
Attachment 66068
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...be42ea53ec.jpg
And tonight after putting the wheelie bars back on mine I finished the chassis on Andy's car.
Fishplates added on the outside of the chassis, I was going for strength, not pretty, so a basic shaped plate.
Attachment 66069
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...866fa6e605.jpg
On the inside I though my welding was good enough, so for belts and braces I just went over the top of the welds with a wide stitch weld - that is plenty strong enough even if it's not the prettiest.
Attachment 66070
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...3c8c8a024d.jpg
Off to Goodwood tomorrow, might see you there https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
nothing wrong with that welding mark, as has been said you won't be able to see any of that once it's assembled.
neil.
I do for mine Mo, I've actually measured them now so can let you know tonight what I need.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisteR Tee
Thanks Neil, I'm always a little worried about posting welding photos, I know its strong enough but there is always the doubt that others think - ooh thats awful welding etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
Just don't go grinding them down !
Nope :)
Popped the engine back in again tonight with the exhaust fitted to see what clearances are like - they are tight. Why Rover stuck the oil pump poking out of the engine like that I don't know but it is a major pain for fitting everything in.
The good news is that it all does fit, but we will be stuck with the tiny oil filter. I've sorted the problem with the engine mount being in the way of the steering shaft, I've trimmed off a bit of the mount and the mounting rubber.
The mount is trimmed back here;
Attachment 66071
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...5652816cdc.jpg
and one of the mounts is trimmed back as well;
Attachment 66072
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d5b0346634.jpg
Now it all clears ok https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Attachment 66073https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...7c7cab5ebf.jpg
The next job is to get a new longer shaft made up.
Attachment 66074
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...cef32edcea.jpg
Getting on well with it mate. I take it that engine mount is at 45 degrees Mark, could an angle change keep all the rubber by any chance?
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
Wasn't the oil pump design of Buicks making? Rover perpetuating it? I dunno!
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Made for wrong hand drive cars .... good progress Mark [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
My bro-in-law had his own company and was a welder all his life starting in the `50s with arc (and gas/brazing) and later Mig/Tig, making low loader trailers to carry bulldozers etc. He taught me to weld and often said `It`s not how the weld looks, it`s the strength that matters`! Yours looks fine to me...Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Tim,
it's sorted now, I only had to trim about 8mm of the side of the mount.
Brian, thanks for the endorsment :)
I texted Wayne at OddRods last night for the new steering shaft, he replied this morning with a question and now its ready for collection - great service!
Good friends Mike & Kim, and also Phil came over tonight for a visit. Mike came with gifts - 2 rear windows to choose a good one from and he has machined up a very nice bonnet support housing and also donated a bonnet support rod. Photo's of these in a future posting.
After a good catch up they left me to get on with stuff. I mocked up the suspension again with the coilovers fitted this time, and put jacks under them to mimic the ride height. After lots of trialling to see where the brake line mounts would go I decided on the best place where they will not foul the springs with the suspension in any position. This took far longer that you would think but it's worth taking time on these things.
Attachment 66075
Attachment 66077
Attachment 66078
With that done I drilled a 10mm hole in the chassis and welded an M10 nut over it for an earth point for the engine.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8000d51dc6.jpg
Attachment 66076
I think that is now all the welding completed on the front of the car.
I then cleaned up the garage a bit and masked up the car, I need to get some panel wipe tomorrow as I ran out tonight. Hopefully I'll get some primer on it tomorrow.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e94a06fb31.jpg
Attachment 66079
At your workrate you won't be too long now!
I see you have the heavyweight jack available at Costco. Great tool except for if you need to pick it up!
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Okay Mark, looks like you'll soon have it all back on the road mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
Chris,
Yes, great jacks - they will never break!! but as you say, 'kin heavy!
That is very tidy and speedy work.
I can only dream of being that good
Proper
Gary
Thanks Gary.
Popped into OddRods on the way home from work tonight & picked up the new steering shaft which Wayne kindly swapped for the shorter one - thanks Wayne!
We now have steering again https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Attachment 66080
Tonight after dinner I stripped the front down and prepped the chassis & tunnel for primer. Before it got painted I though I'd tap the crossmember for the thread that will hold the brake line T junction bracket.
Attachment 66081
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...09a668eb41.jpg
I also rubbed down the filler on the bottom of the nose and that got spot primed before the chassis got painted.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...215a2a7684.jpg
Attachment 66082
Then it was primer time, tunnel;
Attachment 66083
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...b9db3ea714.jpg
and the front of the chassis, I'm not fussed about the overspray on the wiring & pipes as they will be coming out for replacement/cleaning anyway.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...6cc5b06654.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e23bfba6ea.jpg
Attachment 66084
Attachment 66085
The good thing about primer is it shows up where I missed a bit of weld underneath the chassis https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/tongue.png I'd welded next to the joint rather than over it - this will be sorted tomorrow.
Looking good Mark, missed weld, yeah funny how you can look at something for ages and not see it mate.[emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
So what was today's progress I hear you all cry? well, some might cry......oh, only you at the back then.
Well, I borrowed the rivnut tool from work https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Attachment 66086https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...882a2562ca.jpg
And opened up all the holes in the bulkhead where they had used nuts & bolts to secure everything and converted them to 6mm steel rivnuts. This will make assembly much easier.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ed7798a3a8.jpg
Attachment 66087
Then it was on to fitting the ally plates I had made up at work to make the hole around the M/C airtight. This took a fair bit longer than anticipated as the bulkhead was not flat there and needed a bit of massaging. I also had to add a bit of 6mm steel bar welded behind to stiffen it up - the extra 2 bottom bolts bolt into this to pull everything flat.
Attachment 66088https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...18cc897f5c.jpg
With the welder out I welded up the bit I had missed and primed over it again. Then it was the boring task of masking up the car. Andy's bulkhead had been painted in a matt black, I don't have any of that and I was just going to do a halo around the tunnel with the satin black I do have. But then I thought that would not look good so I stripped the entire bulkhead of everything and painted the whole lot. The satin black will look a lot smarter.
Attachment 66089
Attachment 66090
With the remains of the black epoxy primer I also painted the master cylinder.
Attachment 66091
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8bb2a9ac44.jpgMore masking tomorrow so I can paint the front of the chassis in gloss black.
Coming on Mark [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
Coming along nicely. Well done Mark
Thanks Brading.
Tonight started well with the car getting masked up for painting the front of the chassis.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f0508da560.jpg
It continued well with the first coat of gloss laid on.
But then it went downhill. I waited for the paint to tack off and then went to lay a second coat on. Except the spraygun would not spray properly. http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/un.../11/fox_60.jpg.
Poured the paint out into a mixing cup and did a quick and incredibly messy gun clean. Put the paint back in and.........it still would not spray properly. http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/un.../11/fox_60.jpg again.
At this point I got another spraygun out & tipped the paint into that. Tried to paint and that would not spray properly either. http://www.wired.com/images_blogs/un.../11/fox_60.jpg x 3.
So I chucked as bit more thinners into the pot and gave it a good stir, and after a bit of testing on the brown paper it finally sprayed properly again. So I got the second coat on but its a bit dry in places so I think I'll have to put another coat on in the morning to get a good shine everywhere.
I can only guess that the paint had got a bit too viscous in the pot waiting for the second coat, never had this issue before and I've used this paint for years. It was quite warm tonight at 23 degrees in the garage but that should not have been an issue. So I had the joy of cleaning two guns afterwards and all the mess from opening up a gun full of paint.
Still looks pretty good though.
Attachment 66092
Attachment 66093
Attachment 66094
Sounds like what happens when you use the fast hardener around or above its temp range. Works great for a short while, but come back to it after flashing of and.... what you got.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
I had the same issue Mark where pouring a fresh mix into a used pot and the flash off time was accelerated by the smallest of unused paint. Scrapped it all and started with a fresh mix same gun and all fine
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
Looks Great :thumbsup2:
I can imagine the frantic search of the garage and the cleaning when the clocks ticking,I think we've all been there at some point.
Yep, it was not much fun to be sure!
John, you might have hit the nail on the head there, as I did do an extra top up mix - although we are only talking 10 minutes gap between mixes.
Oh well, one more coat this afternoon will see it done.
Today went far better, back on it this afternoon and shot another coat of black over it. no issues this time although it did dry super quick so maybe the weather is just a bit warm for the fast hardener.
Nice gloss on it now https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Attachment 66095
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ed1196d478.jpg
The good thing about it drying so fast was I could unmask it again. Parts now being refitted, excellent https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Attachment 66096
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...1ca97f2b7b.jpg
Ive started on the new seatbelt mounts, picking up on the fixings that are already there I made a new crossbar out of some 30mm angle and 30x6mm plate steel, plenty of heat in those welds;
Attachment 66097
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...92a22ea426.jpg
Which will take the seatbelt sockets bolted in.
Attachment 66098
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ce06519f4b.jpg
Quick update before lunch. I've been making ally standoffs for the brake fittings, you can get a spanner on them now they are away from the bodywork.
Attachment 66100
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ffc86486fd.jpg
And fitted on the car;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...e13cb75c71.jpg
Attachment 66099https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...560703e98b.jpg
Attachment 66101
The master cylinder is also refitted and the closing plates temporarily fitted - as they need another coat of paint on them.
Attachment 66102
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...07798c95e2.jpg
Exciting progress this afternoon!! A bit of a milestone was reached.
The front suspension went back together for good https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Setting up the camber, pretty happy with those figures;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...718dac820b.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...3f6983893e.jpg
Attachment 66103
Attachment 66104
I forgot to take photos during the process so you only get the finished one https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png The steering is still on temp nuts as it will have to come out again for the engine to go back in.
Attachment 66105
Close up photo;
Attachment 66106
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...a092036200.jpg
I put the inner wings back on - you can see how someone just chopped them out with a cutting disc and just left the raw edges https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...superangry.png
Attachment 66109
The masking tape is a guide as to where I'll make some new aluminium plates to get the wings a good fit around the suspension again.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...78e9368099.jpg
Attachment 66107
The strip of tape at the top will drop to the chassis.
Attachment 66108
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...455b5a46ea.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...9674100be1.jpg
It's beginning to look like a car again.
Attachment 66110https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...0704de4958.jpg
After that I looked at the seating position for Andy, the bolts holding the seat in were only finger tight...........
I spent some time working out how to get the seat to go further backwards, Andy is not sure about this but the pedals are (IMO) too near the seat for comfortable driving, so if I can make the seat go back a couple of inches more he will have the option of more legroom. Photos of this in a future post.
Good to see it back on its wheels [emoji106]
I remember there was damage to the tread on one tyre,although the damage looked bad as far as I know that is still legal as long as the carcass is still ok,probably more crucially is the date of those tyres,though many people use tyres beyond their exp date.
Sent from my iPad using NSRA mobile app
Yes Ian, well spotted.
There is a big groove in the tread on one tyre, it's probably not a safety issue but I've yet to decipher the age on them. If there is enough money left in the pot I will get some of the Galaxy Vitour's the same as on mine.
Yesterday I templated the new filler peices for the inner wings. I've decided to do them in steel as our ally is 2mm thick and does not bend easily. The inner wings have compound curves in them and also there is not much material at the back to fix to, so it will be far easier to shape in 1.2mm steel & weld them all back in. I may also cut holes in them and add a reverse scoop to allow hot air out of the engine bay.
Attachment 66111
Attachment 66112
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...b4a5c35e14.jpg
After that I started getting the wiring back into the engine bay from the car. I slimmed the wiring down a bit and managed to get some of my cable trunking over it to protect it where it passes through the bulkhead sleeve. Much happier with that, no chafing possible now.
Attachment 66114
The coil got fitted and then I started making the new brake pipes which always takes an age to work out the correct length and shapes. First one from M/C to servo fitted here;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...68b63b83da.jpg
Attachment 66113
And the second one from the servo to the 3 way connector here - this is the MkII version https://storage.proboards.com/forum/.../notamused.png I used a bit of the old pipe to make a trial section for the take off for the front brakes, which is the loose bit at the bottom of the photo, should make that section a little easier to make tonight.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...b87d6ab6e1.jpg
Keep up the good work Mark
Have you been on hols Ian, you have not posted for a while?
Work before dinner, the front brake pipes are all in now, and yes the long pipe from the bulkhead T to the crossmember T was quite difficult to get right first time.
Attachment 66120
Attachment 66121
Attachment 66122
Had my dinner & carried on https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
After a bit of a tidy up and clean I started on the engine. I had been waiting for the engine & gearbox sump gaskets to arrive - they came today so it was time to address the mangled sump. For once this was not Car SOS's fault - I suspect someone in the past had jacked it up under the sump which had caved the side in where the oil drain plug is - so it would never fully drain the oil.
Car SOS did have the sump off, so they could have fixed it like I am about to. Engine raised to a reasonable hieght to work on - it was lowered again after the sump came off.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...47d87e2384.jpg
Attachment 66123
As you can see, the side is kicked in badly.
Attachment 66124https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...edf580a6f1.jpg
Carefully heating it with the propane torch (I did not want to melt the braze) and putting a bar through the sump plug hole and levering it carefully saw it mostly flat again, some more heating and a BFH and a dolly got the bottom fairly flat as well.
Attachment 66125https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...43d688b530.jpg
The flanges were quite bad, a lot of hammer work was needed to get them all flat & level again, with the bolt hole edges dressed down with a ball bearing. The gasket is being bonded on overnight with gasket adhesive to stop it moving around, and will also be glued to the engine block.
Attachment 66126https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...12a7388336.jpg
Nice work Mark, she's coming on well. That's a common problem on the sump so handy for others that you've explained the best way to tackle it mate.[emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
I've always used rtv on the sump gasket and fitted it in one go. But i only screw it up finger tight to get an even seal. Then torque down the following morning
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
John,
I bought a modern Hylomar and i expected it to be the normal blue stuff, but this is black and very similar in texture to tiger seal. It actually seems far better stuff so I have high hopes it will seal really well. I'm less fond of RTV for sumps etc as it can squidge out of the sides.
i've also found with cork gaskets the rtv is so slippery (til set) the gasket squidges out of the sides and splits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
neil.
This is why i let it set off under low pressure too keep it contained
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
I put a couple of studs in my block to sump face, it makes putting the sump on a lot easier when laying underneath it !
loving your work and detail
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
No holiday yet, I did the "Race the waves" event and been too busy to touch the Morris.
All will become clear soon.
Thanks for caring!!
last nights progress was this.
Attachment 66127
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...47e1fc5064.jpg
It does not look much does it? Sump is now on for keeps and I spend a wonderful time taking the sump off the gearbox to access the kickdown cable fixing with the resulting mess that causes without a drain plug.
Only to find (after a lot of internet searching) that the cable can be changed externally https://storage.proboards.com/forum/.../notamused.png
Oh well, I cleaned the sump out and the servo housing, so its all spotless in there now. I'd guess that the gearbox was also overfilled, as I got over 4 litres out of it and the converter is still full. Recommended approx amount is 3.5 litres and overfilling it causes aeration of the fluid with the resultant wearing of the bands.
This was the only evening so far where working on it was not a lot of fun.
Andy & Kim came over tonight to drop the new paint off and also to have a look at the car. Andy is very happy https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Seats.
As previously mentioned the drivers seat is just too near the pedals and the seat adjuster sticks out so far it gets in the way of your feet. So........
the rear of the seat frame got chopped off and repositioned and very carefully welded back on again each side a bit further forwards. This involved a lot of careful clamping of my spark blankets around the frame to cover all of the seat material, tricky, but it all came out unscathed.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...22a64d7176.jpg
Attachment 66128 https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8e48cc1f2d.jpg
Attachment 66129
The seat runners were bolted to the floor with some 10mm nuts as 'spacers' to stop the adjuster being crushed into the carpet (which it still was).
Attachment 66130
I found some 25x25x3mm wall tube in my stock bin and welded it to each end to raise the seat up enough for it to all work properly. The adjuster also lost about 4" of length. I've welded 2 bolts in as studs so far, but ran out of time for the other 2.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...084aedd207.jpg
Attachment 66131
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f478147c4c.jpg
The end result is the drivers seat can now move back 4" more than before, which is much better for the pedal position, but the steering wheel is a bit of a reach (if seat is in the most rearward position). A deeper dish wheel or a spacer would remedy this though.
Attachment 66132
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...99f12747cd.jpg
How about a quick release for the wheel ? Should be about 30mm closer and a good security fitting ?
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
That is overkill really John.
Andy does not like The wheel fitted so if there is enough money left at the end then a cheap deeper dish one would be something to aim for.
I'm not sure if the current wheel is bent or of the steering boss is not true, but the wheel wobbles as it's turned. I'll pop the boss off and take it to a a friend (Big Rob) who can pop it on his lathe and check it.
I got a couple of hours in after work today. Seat is now painted - epoxy primer is almost the same colour as the paint on the seat frame.
Attachment 66133
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...00428c94db.jpg
And a job I knew would be unpleasant, re-wrapping the headers. My arms really itch now, even after a long shower https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...smiley/sad.png I should have remembered to tape up my sleeves to the gloves.
They are not the easiest headers to wrap, combined with using the wrap that they had torn and it being used made it twice as hard. I've exhausted* my stock of stainless wrap ties as well. They are now painted in high temp paint, partly to protect the wrap but also as it seals it up & reduces the fraying.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...27e0dfe29b.jpg
Attachment 66134
Seat runners are also primed on the bare metal parts, ready for spraying tomorrow.
* see what I did there https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/pirate.png
Good job ...[emoji3]
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
well today was a little frustrating.
It started well with the first job of painting the seat runners and a couple of other bits in satin black.
Attachment 66135
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...c30ce486a1.jpg
Then it was time to put the engine back in (not for keeps) to see how everything fits. Steering is tight for clearance but it all goes in ok. Steering is still remarkably light considering the engine is now back in there
But before the engine went back in I noticed the cover plate for the bellhousing was missing, so it got templated with cardboard;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ff995a3843.jpg
Attachment 66136https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...84ea4987b0.jpg
Which will get made from 2mm ally next week.
Attachment 66137https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...7b9d3e6318.jpg
Attachment 66138
Once the engine was back in it was time to sort the shifter linkage. Some of you might remember I had made the bits for this some time back, but they needed final fettleing once the gearbox was back in its home. This took a couple of hours and ended up needing the gearbox selector arm shortening 5mm to match the shifter throw.
With it all working nicely under the car it got tack welded together and then I got in the car to check it worked properly..........errr......no https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...smiley/sad.png its still pretty sloppy https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...smiley/sad.png Bumhats.
Hmmm......have to think on that some.
No man is born knowing it all but many try to give that impression . I've known Mark many many years and watched his work steadily improve to this level so very well done mate.
Now, the 'rodshop' involved...HMMMM. If I'm correct they have a bit of a rep for very varying standards of work that come out of it which seem very dependent on which member of staff actually does the job. People talk to me because I am very discrete and don't break confidences.
Thanks for the compliment Kev, appreciated. I just try to do the best job I can.
Slight side digression of the thread here, but I know people like to read stuff so I'll add it in anyway.
Back from the Berkshire Rumble on Sunday (170 mile round trip). Some of it a bit wet, but overall mostly dry and a good day.
A few photos from the trip;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...8e1f248def.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...20f1e8e32a.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d0fc5debcf.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...2c65377087.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...9206a92b2d.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ada8865b05.jpg
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Once I got home I got mrs Blackpop to move the shifter lever while I watched under the car, the new rod is flexing, so that is the issue. I've ordered some 8mm rod ends and will make a new linkage with 10mm tube and try to keep it as straight as possible.
I've done a bit of research on the Rover shifter - I've ordered a new ball cup to take the slop out of it and when I dismantled Andy's one Car SOS had packed it out with washers to stop the safety detents from working, so it could be put in any gear just by knocking the shifter.
This means it would have been possible for andy to knock it into reverse or park while driving down the road, a quick way of grenading the gearbox and possibly crashing the car.
I've freed up the mechanism and with a new press button knob fitted it will have the safety lock back - you can only shift gears by depressing the safety knob. A friend with mills & lathes had offered any machining required, so I've asked if he can make a new shifter knob for us.
well after yesterdays day out it was maintainance time for mine. I only have 8 days to get it ready for the Hot rods n Hills weekend https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ey/shocked.png and I've not done anything on it for a very long time.
It's developed a really annoying squeak recently, and even more annoying I can't even trace where in the car its coming from. *I did find later the bootlid hinge has been chafing the ally panel so this 'might' be the squeak.
But also I needed to grease the rear suspension bushings and generally check it all over.
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The urethane bushings were all slightly worn, so I put a new set in as I had a load of spare ones, I also replaced the steel sleeves with some stainless ones I had made years ago. With all of the bolts cleaned up and everything greased it got reassembled. The rear shocks came off and I cleaned up the ally and put them on the polishing mop to shine them up again and also the polishing wax protects them for a good while.
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I spend a good amount of time washing the underside of the car, and touching in some little areas of rust where bits have got chipped. 12,000 miles has taken its toll ands it's not quite the mint condition of when it was built anymore.
Another job while the suspension arms were off was to torch the seized bolts in the wheelie bar mounts, I normally grease up all the bolts, I'm not sure if I forgot last time on these ones or whether they just got rusty anyway, but they had refused to budge with a 6ft pole on them and even a month of penetrating oil had no effect. 3 minutes with the propane torch had them free though https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/cool.png I have to admire 2 pack paint, torching them did not seem to hurt the paint at all? (not that it was in great shape).
New mounts are starting to get made - basic plates cut so far (old ones in background) as the old ones were modified after one of them fractured and ended up busier than I had planned (they originally had the single plate holding the tube & I had to add the extra side plates after the middle 6mm plate fractured). The new ones will be smaller and stronger with the double 6mm side plates.
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You haven't fallen victim to the Dunning-Kruger Effect as many do . Look it up, the rodhop involved definitely need to!Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackpopracing
Essentially it is when people don't know enough to realise that they don't know enough ie over confidence . It doesn't help when on build threads people don't like to have questions asked as to 'why?' . If people who do have suprior knowledge are silenced by fan clubs then everybody loses. Snowflakes start to melt at the slightest criticism ;)
Likewise just because someone has been doing something for 10 years or whatever doesn't mean they've even doing it right! LOL That is the huge benefit of forums over Facebook groups .
Big Rob had come round on Monday to take the gearshift away with vague https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/tongue.png guidance on what was required. He video phoned me tonight and he's already finished it!! top man!!
No photos yet as I'll pick it up on Thursday but it looks extremely nice - I'd be happy with it in my car.
The 8mm rod ends turned up today as well and I made the bell housing cover at work so it got drilled out and filed to shape and fitted.
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Next was cutting the inner wing infill panels, my cheap air powered shears from Lidl actually worked pretty well! saved a lot of work & mess with the grinder and I just finished off with the snips.
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With only 20 seconds of shaping over a bit of tube and it's nearly a perfect fit, result.
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While I was making a mess I finished shaping the wheelie bar brackets for mine, a bit of prep work for welding and radiusing the edges and I can stick them together with a bit of electric glue https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/wink.png
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Great work. Do you ever ��.
G
Do I ever what Gary?
Big Rob sent a couple of photos of the shifter knob to me, the button in the top is pressed to be able to move the selector.
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Sleep.
I must learn to type properly.
Well done Big Rob with the Knob :thumbs_up_smiley:
(It's a good job I didn't get those words mixed up:o, anyway,we have the edit button back now)
Nice work there by you and Rob.:thumbs_up_smiley:
Ah :) yes - 7 hours a night roughly, maybe a little less. I'm a night owl, so I work till 11pm in the garage most nights.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAC
Nice work Mark, hope it's nearing completion :thumbs_up_smiley:
The major work is done John, still a big list of smaller jobs to do. About 3 weeks of work left I think, but I'm away for a bit so may take a bit longer in real time.
progress tonight started with my wheelie bar mounts, got them all prepped for welding;
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And all welded up, pretty pleased with those welds. (The tubes are welded on the other side)
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Then it was on to welding the inner wing infill panels, started ok, but ran out of welding wire. That was a 15Kg roll as well. Luckily I have a spare roll of .6 wire, so after resetting the welding power & feed it actually was better for the ultra thin panels. A bit of a marathon welding session for this, but quite pleased with it - only had to chase a few holes.
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And good penetration on the other side so I can grind that side smooth without weakening the weld.
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Trial fitted back on the car, the wing is super rigid again now - I did not realise how floppy they were before. It needs a final trim around the suspension and a little bit of massaging back into shape, but I'm happy with that.
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Nice work on those inner wings, much better..
Sent from my SM-S908B using NSRA mobile app
I take that as a big compliment from you as your metalwork skills are light years better than mine.
Shorter time in garage tonight so I only managed to cut the other inner wing panel out and tack it into the wing.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...4e28e2ae6a.jpg
Not posted anything as I've been doing more work on mine - front suspension strip & rebuild to grease all of the rosejoints and bolts, squeak is now gone thank goodness! Oil change done and new plugs will get fitted later today. Should be ready for it's trip to the Lake District on Thursday then.
I have been working on Andy's pop as well though, but nothing too picture worthy. I made a MkII version of the shifter rod from 8mm threaded bar with 8mm rose joints on the ends and it all shifts nicely now. I'm not totally happy with it though, so Ive decided to move the shifter over as much as space allows (about 15mm) which will give a more direct line for the rod. Ths will give a more positive shift but also stop the bar from rubbing the gearbox casing.
It will eventually be made of 10mm tube with the threaded bar welded in each end for the rod ends to fix to and also giving adjustability to the length.
Modified tunnel mount here, it will need a new plate welded in to close off part of the hole.
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Some reasonable progress this afternoon.I finished welding the other inner wing and also the plate for the shifter in the tunnel. As it was so warm it seemed an ideal time to get them all in primer.
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And as that dried off so fast I got them coated in stonechip as well.
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And then (hopefully) the engine went back in for the last time for good.
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It's nice to fold up the engine hoist and pack it away, less things to trip over now.
More quick quality work. I'm glad it's not just me that trips over things.
G
It’s going to be a better car!
You'll have it done by Sunday! Oh no you won't as you're skiving of the HRH's on Thursday!
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Yep, I went flying a few times yesterday over air lines, trolleys, engines etc!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAC