Possibly mate but it’s a quick change post so all should stay the same.
Annoying as learning on the job and that always causes issues!
fuel lines have been ordered
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Possibly mate but it’s a quick change post so all should stay the same.
Annoying as learning on the job and that always causes issues!
fuel lines have been ordered
Another evening on the lathe, a late start tonight but none the less I got there and finished off the other axle bearing bung.
The next one I had to make was the diff bung. All going well drilled the bull out then started boring the centre again.
was getting some what better finish with some slower speeds and tweaking the tool height but still not right.
I then made a Final Cut but too too much off, it was one of them moments where you think that looks a bit much and should have backed out but didn’t, ****.
That rocks on the solid bar a little more than hoped, I may be able to use it, but I think it’s a bit loose, anyway I carried on turning the out side down just for practice and got it fitting in the diff cap. I have ordered myself some more material jusy Incase I decide that is scrap.
That was another late one at the workshop after a busy week at Proper work.
Tonight is a night off
i'll wait for someone to call me a bodger but you can wrap a layer or 2 of wide masking tape round the bar to tighten the fit in the bosses. it's after all only to hold everything while the axle case is welded. keep up the good work, it'll soon be tear down time :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
It had crossed my mind!
cheers mate!
it's not like it needs to turn or anything once together, it just sits there while you weld it. i've done it with bits and bobs over the years and continue to do so. for me it all started when i needed a clutch aligning tool, lol. a 1/2" extension bar wrapped in tape to the sizes of the spigot bearing and clutch plate.
neil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mygasser
Ive done that too, worked fine!
Thanks, I managed to get to the workshop for a few hours this morning, I managed to get the other diff bung machined up. Funny thing working on a lathe one wrong move and you’ve got scrap. I was being carefull measuring my old jig bungs and making the new ones for this centre bar, anyway thought it was all perfect when I put them in the Diff and done the bolts up I was suprised them moved. Few thou too small by the looks of it I needed them slightly bigger than the bearing caps so they clamped up. In the diff bit it’s more important they don’t move as I can’t hold them in place when putting the bar through. So I did Chuck a bit of tape on them and clamped them down. May make some better ones later but I think I’ll get away with this now.
If your that worried Tom get some shim stock and cut it too size and pinch on too that. Cheaper and easier [emoji1303]
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you could put lots of tack welds on the machined face then re machine it to knock them down to size. the housing will clamp on the turned welds which as you say will only be a thou or so proud of the original machined surface. the same could be done on the inside of the bungs too. i've even seen worn bearing seat housings pin/centre punched all round before the seats being pressed in with plenty of loctite. it works fine until a replacement part is fitted.
neil.
Good ideas!
I ended up pulling the Rear axle is out of the car and in to the jig I’ve been working on to weld the brakets on and keep the casing straight.
Nice big pile of swarf from machining the aluminium.
I’ve also mounted the fuel feed fittings to the chassis for hard line to attach too just awaiting delivery of that. Faffed about with my planned route of fuel line. Slight alteration from what I thought it would be but no issue really.
Mounted the coil, drilled the hinges for the QR pins.
Onwards and upwards next week hopfully start on some fuel lines and some axle cleaning and start the welding.
Do you have to machine the big bar through the axle as well, or is it smooth/straight enough as it is?
No mate. I haven’t got a lathe that big to machine a 6 foot 50mm solid bar!!
mid be suprised it that’s bent being EN8 Tool steel. It slotted through the axle really nice so the axle is pretty straight.
It was married else where but have to weld all the brakets on.
That bar must weigh a bit!! Im no expert but I can't imagine using tape to make good the clearance as the whole idea is to hold firm while welding. Any movement would squish the tape, no? S'pose it'd be pretty close anyway though either way, but I have read of bars being made of precision ground material for accuracy. Overkill?
As I happens I did a clutch only last week and had to do the tape thing for the pilot bearing tool. Works a treat but not precision stuff.
Didn't someone who you'd have thought should know better famously make a steering column bush out of tape?
Chris
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Just wondered, lol. EN8 should be pretty straight anyway.
The bar defo weighs a bit when it came off the van at work I hid behind the bonnet of the car I was working on and let my mate go and collect it, he wasn’t impressed!
Yes, your right a bit of tape isn’t accurate, the bits That I thought would be too loose actually turned out ok and when the bar is through the jig it still spins with some effort meaning it can’t be that far out of align.
The Tape on the inner diff bearings isn’t really taking up any slop. It’s more holding them in place.
I’ve been chatting to a well know fabricator and member on here who has given me a few hints and tips on the welding process and that the shock mount is my friend as that will pull the axle back the other way from the ladder bar welding. In the future I’d try to get 360 brackets for even welding heat on both sides of the axle.
yes mate if the EN8 steel is bent it wouldn’t go through the axle casing or the bungs and I have slid it through.
I'm sure you'll sort it Tom, what do they say, "it's only metal" mate. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
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Cheers Tim! Definitely mate, looking forward to the next stages. It’s moving forward at a good pace still but probably not quick enough for what I wanted. ha!
Axle and fuel lines will be made next so they are all ready to go in to the finished chassis.
One tip for straightening tube is to just run a bead of weld on the opposite side if it ever does pull out of alignment. (which is what your shock brackets will do).
:thumbsup2:
Tonight I mounted the return line bulk head fittings, tacked to chassis, will fully weld when accessible when stripped.
I’ve also mad a start on the fuel line. With any luck they will all work with no leaks :eek:
Looking for leaks eh! I'm sure they'll be fine Tom. [emoji106]
Cheers Tim W
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