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the rad' fits with it's new bracketry, the flip front stays now clear and the water pump pulley spacer's made. we even cut the 6mm stainless rod and started threading them to make the rad' top to bulkhead stays. hopefully it'll all be buttoned up over the weekend and can be road tested.
neil.
the stainless rad' top stays are threaded and fit fine. the water pump and pulley spacer are painted black as is the core of the new rad' for better heat transfer.
the water pump is now 93mm from gasket face to tip of shaft, it was 120mm so just over an inch shorter. we'll assemble it all tomorrow and fit the fan and lay all the wiring back in place.
neil.
edit the rad' core needs a couple more coats now i'm looking at the pic', lol.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...05-jpg.646423/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...04-jpg.646424/
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...03-jpg.646425/
we didn't get much done today as dawn wasn't well, some kind of stomach bug that comes out both ends :eek:.anyway the water pump is refitted with another new gasket, the pulley is on and the rad' is fitted too. about 1/2" of clearance between rad' and pulley so that's fine. wr offered the bigger fan up in the nose cone and that'll fit too. started on the bottom hose, 2 of the bends already here will work with a 8-10" joiner tube that has a slight kink in the middle. the top hose is almost straight so with the fan controller in the middle will again work with the hose already here. the trans' cooler that was in front of the rad will now go behind it mounted off of the bottom of the 2 steering rack bolts. still in the airflow and 5-6" behind the rad' so not affected by it's heat. more tomorrow.
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/cdn-cgi/...06-jpg.646434/
i just bought another 352 fe ford big block engine, this one's for the cresta :whistle:. i still have the fmx gearbox and convertor and there's a bellhousing to suit that's cheap on ebay so....
neil.
Progress all the way [emoji1303]
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i told myself i wouldn't do the cresta, but i do love an fe big block so couldn't help myself. :lol:
neil.
back to the ute, with the 45 degree alloy tube in hand we measured and cut it to length for the bottom hose joiner. obviously it's no longer flared at the ends to hold the hoses on so we used the slitting disc to put a 'texture' around each end inch of it to allow some grip inside the hose. it was harder to push the hose on than with it smooth so that gave me good reassurance they'd stay put. then we moved to refitting the horns, one each end of the chassis rails. they were bolted to the L shaped brackets the old rad' sat into but these aren't needed now so the horns now bolt direct to the chassis. it'll be faster now as those brackets were about 3 times thicker than the chassis itself and weighed over 1kg each! one horn couldn't be fitted yet as a connector had come off. that's now soldered back on ready for the refit tomorrow. last thing done today was to fit the bigger fan to the new rad'. up at the top this time not the bottom as the old dinky fan was on the old rad'. she's ready for coolant now, just the fan relay to refit and connect up along with this time a decent live feed. lucky the old fan was so weak really as it was powered from the coil live, not good at all!
neil.
https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/attachme...02-jpg.646489/
just looked at that pic again and i might see if we can make a 'duct' panel for inside the nose to direct air down into the rad' core rather than over it. can't hurt right?
neil.
No harm in air duct!
agreed. if we can make the air go through the rad' instead of over it it has to help with cooling.
neil.
Splitter plate ! Duct cold air into the rad and over the rad into the air filter
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that makes sense, supply both..
Fancy! That would be quite a cool little addition.
When I had an inefficient rad in my Pop,I stopped the air going under the rad with steel sheet from the bottom of the grille to chassis,and the sides of the rad with 3mm thick rubber so it didn't chaff on the rad,it made a dramatic improvement when the car was moving.(I had next to no gap at the top)
When I switched to the more efficient ally rad I didn't need the rubber down the side.
if it was mine maybe........Quote:
Originally Posted by jsf55
the fan relay's wired now after a bit of alteration. there was a link wire across the relay between the live and switching connectors. ok if you don't mind the fan running on with the ignition off but i'm not a fan of that. also ok if you're using an ignition feed, except then you'd need another relay as a live from the ignition switch won't handle the amps draw a cooling fan needs. so we snipped the link wire and used the previous 'power' (live at the coil :rolleyes:) wire to switch the relay, then fitted a new power wire direct from the starter live with an inline fuse. it was too late to run the car/truck today so the last job was to refit the grill to the flip front, tidy the wiring all round the front of the chassis and check all the lights. one indicator was intermittent but that was only a dirty connector so easily fixed. so... fire up and check the fan works and set the cut in temp' and that's it all done....... or is it? bill popped in yesterday and i got the ''while you have it here can you'', lol. so apparently he's replaced all the brake hard lines except the 2 that go to the front flexis. he even 'happened' to have a roll of brake pipe with him, imagine that :whistle:.
neil.
I've never understood the fan running on after the engine is switched off. It'll only cool the water in the rad plus any that might flos from the engine with the water pump not running. I get it that the engine heat increases post shutdown but I can't see how that can be much of a problem as the engine isn't running and the components themselves shouldn't melt with the extra heat. I guess there's an argument that if you were to restart whilst the engine is in its overheated state there could be a problem, eg with pistons being tight, but is that likely?
Is that your buddy approaching with a nice supercharger in his arms, whilst you're at it......
Chris
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[QUOTE I've never understood the fan running on after the engine is switched off. ][/QUOTE]
If it was a mechanical fan, there would not be any air flow anyway. So an electric fan
does have the bonus of aiding cool air to the rad after the engine has been shut down.
My electric fan works from the accessary side of the ignition switch so I do have control
over it 'running on' after the engine is switched off.
i understand there will be an amount of thermosyphon (pre water pump flow method where heat rises so the rad' cools water making it 'sink' to the bottom allowing hot to enter at the top from the engine and so on) but i'll chance the heat to make sure my battery isn't going to be low/flat when i do want to restart.
neil.
we ran it up to temp' and set the fan switch. according to the gauge it now cuts in at 90 ish and off at 75-80 ish. that's idling in my garage with no air movement so pretty much simulated being sat in traffic. it only took about 20-30 seconds from on to off again so the bigger fan's working well as is the much bigger chevy radiator. forgot to say we checked the front brake hard lines yesterday as they wanted to replace them. they'd done the rear one previously so thought may as well do the front's too. when we had a look at them other that being a bit grubby (wiped clean with a rag) they're like new. some of the push in pipe clips weren't so they are now replaced with new nylon p clips which can't come out.
that was all so it's ready to go home now.
neil.