The screen was / is a headscratcher. There's been a screen in there before? If so, how?
Chris
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The screen was / is a headscratcher. There's been a screen in there before? If so, how?
Chris
It went in before the body was fitted to the Chassis Chris.
We are nearly at the end of Andy's car mods, a little thing - his steering wheel has a big hole in the middle;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...b071252e64.jpg
So I made a little filler peice with his initials on for him https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...ea4efbe683.jpg
The big job of the day was the windscreen - I thought it would be a pig of a job to do and it did not disappoint. It took me and Mrs Blackpop over an hour and a half just to fit the rubber around the glass and to get the string fitted in the rubber. Not a job I want to repeat, it would have taken about 2 minutes if the glass was out of the car.
Anyway, its all in and fitted now and sealed to the bodywork as well. I need to bond the joint at the top as I could not get the rubber relaxed in the right place due to not having the room to fit the rubber properly. The wiper arms were heated and bent to put the wipers nearer the top of the screen. I'll measure the sweep and we will get a new drive wheel for the motor at a later date to get more of the screen swept.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d3935ec61f.jpg
I had previously treated the rust in the gutters so time to apply more paint in them. A second coat will go on tomorrow.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...fbc80c9d9b.jpg
Andy came round and we discussed seat heights and possible seat belt replacement, but he is happy with it for now and will see how he feels in the future if he wants to change them. I talked to him about the rear brakes being contaminated - this is not a new issue aparrently and is oil exiting the half shaft ends.
At least I don't have to strip & rebuild the calipers then. I will whip out a half shaft to see if I can see a reason for the leak - although it did go to Hausers to have the axle rebuilt (allegedly) so 'ought' to be good.
Not much left to do now, we did discover what the switch on the dashboard does - it arms the line lock, so mystery solved https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
Andy fired up the engine - first time since it rolled in, it started fairly well, the choke works nicely, though it is incredibly rich on choke. We tried the open headers - sounds great https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/grin.png https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...miley/cool.png so it will be ready for him to collect next weekend.
He is very happy with it, which is good.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d5fc7205c7.jpg
108 hours
re the choke... you could either notch the edge of both choke flaps or drill small holes in each. either will weaken the mixture on full choke. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.
What an epic. I saw this at the NATS and thought what a shame. It was all there but just needed some proper Pop love.
it is an old Porsche colour
Good info Neil.
Dave, thanks - interesting about the Porsche colour.
Hi Mark. just out of interest what swayed you to sticking the bonnet felt down rather than screws or pop rivets? And what did you use? I riveted mine down previously but we a pain to get off so open to suggestions!
Yes I spoke to Andy at the NATS and he said it was an old Porsche 365 colour….just love the colour
i think you are what is needed to finish this project.
i find w things funny in this hobby of ours
1 Some people with zero ability enter into owning a hot rod knowing that what ever they do will cost. I can assertain from a conversation I had with another rodder at the NATS that the builder of his and Andy’s were the same.
2 now the people that build their own might not get it 100% but at least it works and will last. You don’t need to spend massive money to own a good. car but pick the wrong builder and it’s ?????????? all the way.
Many of the things you are putting right are fundamentals of a good build. The fact they have been missed or bodged speaks volumes of the people who built it.
Dc
Glynn, I dont like any holes in an area that can leak into the car. Also the felt can move around between the rivets. I used Sikaflex to bond them on, they wont come off again!
Dave,
I think I know who you were also talking to ;)
You are right, having worked on the Car SOS Pop and this one makes me appreciate just how well I built both mine and Phils pops - we do high mileages in ours (mine has done 16,000 miles now) in all weathers and they never leak and have not gone rusty. Everything works properly on them and they drive & stop properly.
The difference is that amateur builds CARE.
Small progress tonight, roof gutters got their second coat of paint, and the inner door panels also got a second layer of touch in as well.
Then I spent a little while with some scrap strips of aluminium getting a profile for the cover for the steering shaft.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...f03f69facb.jpg
Hopefully I can get a bigger panel folded at work tomorrow that I can trim to fit.
109 hours
Chipping away at the last few jobs, the 7mm I.D hose arrived today for the radiator overflow, so that was fitted with a retaining P clip bolted to a convenient 8mm mount on the side of the radiator.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...eeebdded54.jpg
Then it was clutch bleed time. This was a problem as it just would not bleed? It's a concentric slave with the bleed line exiting the side of the bellhousing, but I could not get hardly any fluid to come through. Mrs Blackpop pumped the clutch pedal but this made it worse?
I then tried my vacuum bleeder, this pulled a small amount of fluid through and improved the pedal a little. In the end I got Mrs Blackpop to pump the pedal while I vacuum bled it, this did at least shift fluid through and the pedal is now nice & high.
Then it was on to the rear brakes. I was going to pull a half shaft as Andy said it was axle oil leaking, but upon removing the disc the axle shaft was dry and fairly clean. The discs are very deep so the inside of those ought to be very oily & wet but they were just dirty.
So, maybe its the calipers after all? There does not seem to be any brake fluid loss and the brakes work well so I'm not totally sure.
If anyone recognises the discs and calipers please let us know what they are off so if we need a caliper rebuild kit in the future we know what to order.
In the meantime I've cleaned all the discs, calipers and pads with vast amounts of brake clean and we will have to monitor the situation.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...69e3ba332d.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bfbde23fbd.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...694b2b06fa.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...fec8629a7b.jpg
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...40d9e0ff25.jpg
The wheels are now back on but some of the bolts have the wrong washers so won't tighten correctly, we can visit Northants Tyres at Wheelsday to replace them with the correct hardened washers.
110.5 hours
They're some 'deep dish', or whatever the correct terminology is, discs! I have no idea what they are but I'd be possibly thinking from a fully floating axle application, possibly vans? There must be listing by size somewhere? In the old days.........
Can't you just look in the huge file of information that must have come with the car? ;)
Edit, check this out, getting close! Sherpa twin wheel front disc.
https://ebay.us/m/Y6pzqK
Chris
I've been told on another forum the the calipers are Volvo 240, discs are fine so less of an issue if we don't know what they are.
0n the rally design website there's a 'thing' for choosing discs based on dimensions. once you enter the dimensions asked for it tells you what factory application is the same spec'.
neil.
ps i know it was common in the uk a few years ago use mercedes rear discs and calipers to ford 8/9 inch axles. the merc' discs had handbrake shoes inside the disc (quite common on modern cars/vans) which could explain why your discs there are so deep.
oh... pps i've had to 'back bleed' some clutches by pumping fluid in at the bleed nipple, i use a garden pump up sprayer with the gun cut off the pipe. it gats a bit messy at the reservoir but i've never failed to get the air out using that method. :thumbs_up_smiley:
Nothing photo worthy to show tonight, just finishing off some of the jobs, windscreen rubber joint sealed with a bit of sikaflex, A posts got a big dose of cavity wax through the clamshell vents and down to the sill bottoms.
I looked at the clutch pedal - it's got pressure immediately so no air, no return spring but it does let the Master cylinder open fully.
One little nice suprise when I was investigating the clutch pedal, I undid the 2 big bolts between the brake & clutch pedal and found out the pedal assembly is a complete saddle that rests over the chassis. As such it can be moved forwards very easily by altering the (removable) part of the floor and sliding the saddle forwards and making 2 new bolt fixings in the chassis.
There is at least 60mm+ spare room before a chassis outrigger would be in the way, so not perfect but that is still a good amount more legroom for driving. It would just need longer rods from the pedals to the master cylinders to compensate.
Something for Andy to consider in the future.
111.5 hours.
Down to the last couple of jobs now, one of which is sealing the big gaps around the pedals.
Ideally the pedal bars would be round so we could use a small CV boot on each one, but as they are not I had to go down the lesser route of brush strip.
It's not perfect but it is the only practical solution in the circumstances.
You can see the 'saddle' of the pedals here where it sits over the chassis rail with the two big countesunk bolts in it.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...bd732582ab.jpg
The last job left (apart from the cavity wax in the sills - still waiting on them drying out) is sealing off the steering column hole in the bulkhead.
Our folder at work has gone as we are about to install a computerised brake press (exciting!) so I had to use my small folder at home. The new blank is folded to the shape of the template strip;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...3c1c523ce3.jpg
And part way through trimming to fit here;
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d6b993d5a1.jpg
Fully trimmed, it sits about 1mm from the column shaft, there will be a sealing plate to bridge the slot fitted with rivnuts when it's finished.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...a364e563dd.jpg
CAD design side panels made up, shape transferred to aluminium and I'll cut those out at work on the guillotine tomorrow and get them welded on.
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...d57a6e97d9.jpg
113.5 hours.
All good work sir - just had to use same brushes to seal floor around my pedals and same as you not loving the solution... I should of made round pedals ...
^^^
Agreed it's not an ideal solution.
All nicely welded up at work https://storage.proboards.com/forum/...ley/smiley.png
https://img.retro-rides.org/i/v/blac...6c88fe4428.jpg
All super work, not got a pop but picked up someuseful tips.
Now correct me if i am wrong but didnt the SOS pop also belong to an Andy? If so maybe the moral of the story would be if 'any Andy is thinking of getting a pop check with you first'.
G
You are right Gerry, both named Andy.