Toms Custom Shop

Hi guys as youve seen on the Austin boot lid, as a hobby I run with the name Toms Custom Shop Its Not a business just a hobby and I do the odd bit to gain some skills etc.

I don?t mind a challenge but luckily I can pick and choose what I do.

Over the last 2 years i havent done much as have been concentrating on trying to do the best on the Austin a few bits slipped through to help people out.

I may post some pics of that stuff another time.

I am going to use this thread to post up anything that could be interesting or a challange, classic or modern!

First thing, what is with the question marks instead of a inverted comma

Forums knackered ...technically ... it's passed it's use by date :(

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The thread title looks like I?m looking for myself lol

never mind.

First in after the completion of the Austin is a Led Sled Kustom, it has air ride all round. 4 bar rear, and a healthy power plant.

The initial job was to check out the header set up and work out how to get a bend short enough and high enough to get the system through the chassis.
Unfortunately this was not going to happen with out modifying the headers.
With Off the shelf headers I would always try and keep them in stock form so they can be replaced if needed.
I shortened and modified the headers and added a 3 bolt flange. Positioning the bolts in easy to reach area.
With that then carried out i moved on to a slight reduction in to 2.5 inch stainless with some Flexy joints.
I have added an 02 bung in to both banks even though we only use one on this engine in stock formation, it?ll give room for aftermarket management if required one day.

As you?ll see I am trying to use the original chassis holes some do have some mods already.

Nice!

I dont think I've seen flexible bits like that before (I've led a sheltered life!). I'm used to the ones with a heavy braided outer and long tails each end. Those have a light mesh outer and the shaping of the transition to the pipe looks good. Is there a particular source for those or should I just get out more?

Chris

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Hiya,
They are called Super Soft Flexys. They are nice to used I have used both these and the stiffer outer webbing. I avoid using the ones with the tails on I find them a bit poor quality.
There is a nack to welding these on but they don’t have tails!

Now Welded up and tucked through the chassis, ready for some boxes.

Thanks for that info!

Chris

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Ruddy neat work.
G

Thankyou :)

Very tidy and learned about an alternative exhaust flexis into the bargain . this is what Forums used t be about .. keep the posts comming , looking forward to whats comming next :)

Very tidy work, nice.. and impressive

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Thanks!

I have added some large exhaust boxes in now. Surprising for a big car how little room there was for boxes working around other peoples work. With out running a bit of a silly wiggly route this was the most logical way.
They are an offset silencer so the exit is not in the same place as the exit. I do try to use these to get a bit more noise out of the system as this is a cruiser.

So with the boxes added in, the pipe exiting the box made aswell with a couple more bends it pointed towards the next hole in the chassis then added some 2.5 inch V bands to join the next section up once the mounts were made.

The holes in the chassis had to be opened up slightly at this point as the v bands didn?t want to play ball and slip through unfortunately.

Next was on to mounting the mid pipe section once all welded. With it being solid at the headers now, not your usual domed flexy joint, the flexy pipes take out some stiffness so then I started making a mount to hold the system firm after the box.

You will see in the pics I didn?t quite get off the pedal quick enough but it will be ok just nipped the edge of the mount with the welder

I try to use poly Cotton reels when possible, always in compression, they are a really nice way to mount and if used correctly will last ages.

ignore the melted poly mount that?s my mock up mount!

note, This system is in 316 stainless, the boxes are not as seem to struggle getting hold of 316 boxes.

I used another hole in the chassis to access the mount nut, no point drilling what you don?t need to.
I also welded a small tab to the inside of the chassis for the cotton reel to sit on.

Tom, have you tried the exhaust grommets yet for hanging tube and mufflers?
i find them to be better and simpler to use than cotton reels,
just a 5/8” hole in flat plate for the outer bush and a 3/8” hole for the bolt to pass through the other bracket,
link below,
theres cheaper ones on ebay us that work just aswell.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-610320-4

Hi Gary! I haven’t! I remember you using them before and thought I may use them at the rear of this where access is a bit limited! Thanks for the link!

Today I got the other side mount made up for the centre pipe.
We are now in the dangerous zone.
4 link on air where people haven’t thought about the room needed for an exhaust.
The next part will be cutting some flooring out that was put in else where to allow me to get up and over the rear cross member as there is room above it’s gunna be fun I think.
Also I am going to raise up the cross member that links across the 4 link, and alter the prop loop, Over all of you were to build this car again I think the 4 link would be put higher in the car, we can work around that and see how it goes.

Out with the grinder this evening for a quick cut of the cross member that?s right in the way.
The 4 link is not as high in the car as I would have put it but it will work, the 4 link joints in to the chassis right where the stock K member sits so nice and strong the cross member probably isn?t needed but I am going to re install it a little higher in a way it will still hold strength and give room for the exhaust. Not only that, it was pretty rough, hammered flat at the top of the prop loom rather than just raising it up a tad

To get over the rear bag cross member I?m having to raise the exhaust in to the floor as I said before so I have cut some floor out, we were going to use 2 tunnels, but figured it would be easier and better to raise a section of floor up and the prop tunnel may have to be altered anyway. So this will be last on the list to re make.

Progressing on with the exhaust system.
Trying to keep it as less intrusive as possible means for a bit of a wobbly route.
I?m really not a fan but to get to the rear of the car it?s absolutely mental. So up and over the chassis, then down pack past the air bag and shock then in to the rear 1/4 area to dump in the bumper.

you may not be a fan but you do it so well :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.

Really nice work there Tom.

Thank you,
should have them sections welded up to the bags on Sunday

I will do a quality check over the weekend at some point.

Finally a good day at the workshop.

I set about getting both pipes that link the centre section to the top of the air bags welded up. Then weld on the v band flanges.

The next point was to see if they still fit as there is a lot of joints and tight space.

They had moved a bit, I think it was on the V band at the join had a bend straight in to it rather than a bit of straight pipe, there for there was a slight bit of slack on the fit up, no Gap to fill on a join as such but thinking about might have moved in to the free space or slop on the flange.
They Still fit well enough so it was on to a quick mount set up. 2 Tabs on to the cross member and some small stainless mounts on to the exhaust, tack on remove exhaust again, weld cool and refit.

It can be quite time consuming!

next Is on to the fun bit. I thought that but was tough haha! The next bit has to come past down inbetween the tin work for the back of the boot and the air bag, avoiding the shock, then come along past the tank and in to the 1/4. Then finish at the bumper.

so great progress really, shall we say the bulk of it is done. Once the exhaust is all on I will remove the car from the ramp for johns new van to get in the air and have a full service and check over.

while he is doing that I?ll get on with some other bits on the floor, then back on the ramp to get the cross member back in and some heat shielding plan a fuel line route that looks as fun as the exhaust.

Nice work Tom, are you limited to the bends you can buy in stainless to get the right angles ? How about the turbo clamps rather than sleeved over is that more for maintenance work ?

Thanks mate,
No you are not limited to bend angles usually, in this case I am using 316 stainless, 45/90 deg available. If using 304, you can get a wide variety of bends.

The 90s I am using can be cut down to a req degree no problem, I done this on the front sections.
the route taken here is not due to bend angle but more weve got one route through this gap.

Not sure what you mean ref the sleeve joins mate? Every join on this is a VBAND.

The normal slide on with a double slot as per most production stuff

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Oh get ya! Yeah I don’t often do that method to be honest. I would like to but I would need a decent pipe expander for this 316, normal expanders don’t seem to touch the 304 either.
I like to use a nice clamp, it gets expensive but you get what you pay for.
I know a guy that always uses the slip connectors and has decent gear to make them with no big leaks ect some of them are proper poor.
I see a lot of after market exhausts fitted to production cars at work and they are often low grade stainless and poor fitment. Crazy what people pay for rubbish sometimes

Tonights task was to remove the rear bumper and put proper sized bolts in the burner irons, check out some of the next route for the tail pipe sections and make some cuts ready for the next stage.

I removed the bumper and split the bumper irons, the ones fitted are possibly 50 merc with a 49 bumper or something like that one way round or another haha! We may make new bumper irons yet but for now just needed to remove one half of them to get out the way of the tail pipe section. It?s now secure enough to hold in place to work out where to dump the exhaust. 5/8 bolts holding the bumper irons on, these cars were built as tanks!

Next I made a cut of a 90 to make my ?turn downs? that are going to hide inside the curv of the bumper. In to the band saw x2 job done.

Next cut 2 500 mm straights and tacked the turn downs on to get a rough look of a ?run?

Tight 90 legs cut and then halved for a bit of a step curv that?s going to be needed.

Then cut down another tight 90 leg to then attatch to the v band that is now at the rear bag cross member and welded up.

Another few hours last night getting some bits stuck together.
Down past the air bag, looks close, because it is. It will be protected. We also figured the exhaust heat would be cooler here than at the front of cars with headers near by ect!

Blimey, were you a snake charmer in a previous life. Ruddy good work.

G

Haha! It does have some shape to it!

as it's up out of sight you could always put some header wrap round the section of exhaust near the air bag mate. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mygasser

as it's up out of sight you could always put some header wrap round the section of exhaust near the air bag mate. :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.

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Yeah mate we probably will do, will get some good quality stuff and wrap it nice.
there’s some other sections that will need some heat Shields too.

by the plastic fuel tank?

That area actually has quite a lot of room around it! No closer than production cars in fairness however it probably will get some saftey shielding once all this bit is sorted should be back in action tomorrow for some more work hopefully can get a good bit of progress ready for a shift around in the workshop

it was hard to see in the pics, i guess you could 'tiger seal' some of that foil type heat shield to the part of the tank closest to the exhaust?
neil.

No mate that’s a bit of a bodge, if I make a shield I’ll have it bolting on so it’s proper job. The car is worth more than a bit of tiger seal lol.

Today was a great day at the workshop, other than it being cold, and I hate the cold!! Winter is clearly coming in fast I just had to crack on.

Carrying on with the exhaust system getting the driver side routed to the rear bumper and then the passenger side to follow a similar route but as always not quite the same!

The band saw was getting a work out and lots of tacking checking and welding Both sides are now to the bumper, they are pretty close to the same both sides but obviously being an old car that?s had metal work nothing is identical. We also need to get the bumper fitting bang on before the final trim of the tail pipe they might be perfect but we will see.

I am out of stainless flat so will order some more and make 2 rear mounts for that section.
Also not far off being out of gas.

In the week I hope to get the mounts made and then can just get a nice 3 inch bit of card board tube to check some prop clearances then it can come off the ramp and be parked for a short while.

not bad though, the car nearly has a fully working exhaust system, it?s been owned 15 years and we?re finally making some progress for them.

Dude don't be cold. Their is a heater with about 100 gallons of red diesel.

Going through the same process with the exhaust on the pop project . I kinda enjoy the process and all the twists and turns , Not as many as youve taken care of here, but still a few to get things where I want them to be and a few additions just to add that visual to the system. Inspired by your fabrication. :)

Looking forward to your updates ..

Thanks for the kind words.
Exhaust systems can face you with challenges as most people build a car and don’t think about the exhaust then just dump it where they can get too.
If you forward plan then it can be really benifitial
Most of the rod systems are more function over pure performance most will tell you otherwise but it’s normally the case!
The guys really wanted the pipes to the bumper, it was near on impossible but ‘hold my beer’

A slight pause at the mo, I?ve had a swap around in the workshop and John is going over his van.
Mean while I attempted to tidy some areas up starting with my tool box! What a mess that was. Threw away loads of old crap. Much better now. More of a clear out to come haha

Knocked up a little G clamp stand!

Can never have enough G clamps [emoji1303]

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Hi!
Hopefully I can show you the current tinkering in the shop. Pics should come out ok.
big block Chevy corvette.
2.0 primary?s
more room in a tea bag than past the steering box.
Trust me I?ve tried every route.
Things are going to be tight, will likely have to run shorty plugs to clear the leads.

However, enjoy the start.

You sure like a tight fit, contortionist comes to mind. Bloody good work. Unfortunately I am one those that have gone with it will go there, that will do for now blokes


G

I think I’m the person that says yeah that’ll fit lol must like a challenge

nice work tom :thumbs_up_smiley:
i like making headers, worst i've had to do was for my 65 dart with a 440 swapped in it. it was easier to make those fenderwell style which i like anyway but even then they took me a week to make :eek:
neil.

I would say this was 2nd worse I’ve done. Worst was a 460 stroker in a falcon all a bit wrong that was.

A bit behind on updates but this is the driver side header welded up. Hours of fabrication. Hours of welding. Primarys are all back purged. 316 stainless.

Very nice. Also good to see you making the headers with the plug socket on.

Nice job tom,
i can see the hours spent on those…:thumbs_up_smiley:

Gorgeous

Thats art!

Thanks all, yep, funny enough Gary (Chevy 2) Taught me always have the plug spanner handy when building headers!
There’s room for that but the lead are very close, it’s either that or no header to be honest, there wasn’t enough room to drop straight down and along the top of cylinder 1, just gunna have to see, shorter plugs ect should help.

Gary, I bet you can!! Speaking from experience and all that! Tricky one this with no real idea on space. With no steering box I’d say it would be a ‘doddle’ but that’s easy to say - a bit like ‘it’s just a few bits’ etc.

On to the passenger side. That is ‘easier’ but have to be able to get the battery out with headers in place, also be able to clear the starter and steering so that means a totally odd header, But we’re not here for symmetry this time round!

pics to follow

Have you thought of using those insulted plug lead covers ? Means going too straight plug leads tho
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387082400...oHo5NF23dtXbo9

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Yes mate. Either way will probably be close.

Looks great. Well done.

Passenger side

*hits like button*

Did you start a fresh swear box for the right side header . My guess is the left side swear box will be overflowing . Great looking piece of work .

I was quite close to thinking this can?t be done. Then gave my self a slap and said get your head in the game.

Here ya go!
serious hours spend on this set up And I?m not finished yet

That's come out well! Costing someone ??????'s! Topical edit gbp's!

Reminds me of a budy, had an expensive set of custom headers in the boot of his daily driver pending them going on their way to be coated. Car got nicked and headers never seen again! Doh!

Chris

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Welding porn :yes:

I will have to check it out today.

An often occurrence when making headers is most people forgetting what is involved.
The headers are one part of it, on a street car they don?t link there self in to a system on there own.
On to making the header to side pipe link. A 3.0 take off via a v band connection. In to a flexi, trying to clear the chassis and keep as tucked up as possible. Around a ?simple corner? and in to the side pipe, that?s 2.57 inch. As you can see the welding of the last piece before the side pipe actually shrunk the tube size to a tighter fit, still not snug enough for perfection but with the pipe expander busted I had to brave it, I added a extra brace plate as a diamond on the side of the pipe you can see on the pics.
Took some time to get it linked up due to a tight radius of the side pipe cover and the side pipes already mounted at the rear I was limited slightly on options.
With the weight of the side pipe they needed a mount at the front also, as it wanted to hang on the flexi. This bolts in to the chassis with a m8 thread so easy to remove when taking pipes off for whatever reason.

pics to follow

That's a lot of welding!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blackpopracing

That's a lot of 'really neat' welding!

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there ya go, i edited it for you :thumbs_up_smiley:
neil.

Always a lot of welding in this kinda stuff!
hours!
In that section I had to make a few sections together to be able to hold it all in place at once haha!

on to the next section and that was basically doing the same thing but on the pass side, header take off to a 3 inch v band and then obviously the link pipe. Again, a little tricky!

Blanks were then made for the 3.5 inch outlets for the open header option.

A really superb piece of fabrication.

Amazing work. An inspiration.

G

Ive seen these in the real. Absolutely beautiful.

The final set up!

Looking good Tom but i got to ask why the indents ?

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aren't they crimp marks on the silencer section?
neil.

Needs to be seen in the real.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsf55

Looking good Tom but i got to ask why the indents ?

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As Above they are crimps on the supplied side pipes! Inside that tube is a star shaped tube crimped in to the outer. Quite interesting how it would be done bet it’s a fun machine to have!


As John said they are something to see in the real, as once there fitted you can’t see it!!!

Today?s quick job was to link up the down pipe to centre, I had just modified the down pipe from a Honda integra with a k20 turbo fitted to fit a ep3 civic with the original k20 but also turbo charged.
The down pipe was an easy cut and alter surprisingly easy, added a flexy and went back on the car with an 02 bung in a preferred position.

this was the next task, get the down pipe to the rear box.
I managed to get this made and welded today. Just need to add the hangers, then modify the rear box to 3.0 inch and make it connect to the centre section.

unhot rod related, but modern day hotrodding at its finest, 450 horsepower easy out of this 2.0 4 banger