This might help.
Ball Joint - Quinton Hazell
This might help.
Ball Joint - Quinton Hazell
Who cares If It's glass or steel, It's still a hot rod.
you should've asked if there was anyone there who left school in the last century that you could talk to
Great find.Originally Posted by martin
I've looked through the first 20 pages (only 21 more to go!) and think I may have found one that will work, just got to check some dimensions off of the old one.
It says is OEM for Peugeot.
I'll keep you all posted
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
It's a sad fact of life, knowledge of your product is on the decrease. If its not standard it can't possibly be...you should've asked if there was anyone there who left school in the last century that you could talk to
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Off we go again!
After much reaserch and head scratching I decided not to replace the ball joints, but for future reference they are Peugeot parts, thread is M14 1.5, cone is 18mm, bottom thread is 48mm.
After taking the bushings out some of them had gone hard so I needed to find replacements.
Looked on Ebay and found someone selling 35mm poly rod but it worked out at £63.00 for the amount I would need.
Then as sometimes happens a post popped up on Facebook for a set of 20 bushings!
Turns out they were the exact size I needed (same as Pete & Jakes front end bushings).
The company was called EVOL Engineering and the chaps name was Justin.
20 bushes for £25.00 postage included...result.
Few pics below showing progress.
The bushes were originally well coated in copper grease but reading the fitting guide on the Polybush website they recommend using only washing up liquid.
After a while the grease dries out and acts as a cutting compound!
You can see this on some of the metal sleeves.
Just got to dismantle the first side again now and replace all th blue bushes with black ones
I know I should have powder coated the tie rod and steering rack arms aswell but didn't fancy having to strip the rack apart and have to re do all the steering geometry.
Last edited by fabphil; 17-12-24 at 03:09 PM.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Silicon grease is supposed to work well too.
How stiff are the bushes? I'm not shorewhat numbers correspond to what. I've had some rated shore 20 that disintegrated with just some minor misalignment of coilovers! Pete and Jakes are I think towards the softer end.
Connecting the brake hose to the coolant tank is a novel idea.Cooling or pre warming? (Ref last but one pic.)
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
Soapy water is great for assembly but dries out very quickly. If there us no lube between the sleeve and the bush it WILL start to squeak. It's the major weaknesses of poly bushes.
yep, but only use grease between the inner of the bush and the inner sleeve, not outside the bush and the outer housing.
neil.
I messaged the chap to check the Shore rating.How stiff are the bushes? I'm not shore
He came back with all his bushings are 85 to 90, so should be OK for a while.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Yorkshire street rods front end(s) used 3/4/5 Cortina, Granada , Talbot Solara . (disastrously) Transit track rods ends as lower joint and Princess . Princess are designed to be shimmed and the normal problem with them is thta no one does it . Old article on UKHotrods tech site about hos to do it. If you replace search out NOS thatahave metal balljoint securing casing not plastic. Plastic breaks easily and regularly
Galations 6:7
I read your article on UK Hotrods that gave me a starting place. I ordered some Solara ball joints but the bottom thread was too small for the cup. Turns out the original ones are still good so I’ve re used them.
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Cant believe its been around five months since I was last here!
Finally got the car out for a run to fill up the tank.
Got to love the EFI, she started on the second spin
Reference the YSR front ball joints, from looking through the catalogue they appear to be Peugeot items.
They look identical to the Talbot parts but have a bigger diameter thread at the base.
The brakes are still crap.
I've tried all I can think of now.
As suggested I loosened off the rear callipers and directed the bleed nipple vertical, bled them , there is defo no air in the lines now.
The pedal still feels very soft and goes all the way to the floor.
The car slows but it wouldn't do an emergency stop
Looks like I need to do some maths to see about line pressures etc.
The pedal was hard before I moved the pivot point down so not sure how that could affect things.
The pedal now has 9" above the pivot and 1" below the pivot and a very long travel!
Front calliper's are Hi Spec Motorsport Billet 4 pot (38mm) Princess replacements, rear callipers are Ford Sierra Cosworth, sliding single piston (43mm).
There are 2psi residual pressure valves in the front and rear lines.
Servo is dual 7", vacuum measures 15 inches via vac pump and reservoir.
Master cylinder is Willwood alloy dual circuit with a 1" bore.
Does any one have the formula for working out the correct numbers?
How would I actually measure the line pressure?
Awaiting your wisdom
Last edited by fabphil; 22-04-25 at 11:30 AM.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
a 9:1 pedal ratio is why the travel is so much. with a servo a 4/5:1 is normal. no servo and 6/7:1 is about right. even so if the brakes are working before the pedal reaches the floor they should be very good with the extra leverage you have. did you say you changed the rear calipers to cossy ones and if so what did it have before?
neil.
The Cosworth callipers were originally on the car when I got it.
I only refitted them as the replacements I fitted didn't work out well.
They always had a very low % at the MOT check.
They also had a separate set of pads for the handbrake and just couldn't apply enough pressure to work.
I know the higher the ratio the longer the travel but thought this should improve the line pressures.
It feels like there is an air pocket somewhere but I'm out of ideas.
I've bled the system half a dozen times and put 3 litres of new fluid through.
Its a pain as I have to take the drivers seat out every time I need to get to the master reservoir.
I'm bleeding them old school, tube into jam jar with fluid in, the wife pumping the pedal while I shout.
Just had a thought...
When I was playing around I think I emptied out the master reservoir, (it was so long ago now I cant actually remember). I bet it needs a bench bleed.
That would be the only thing I haven't checked
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
get a cheap garden weed sprayer, the ones with the pump handle on top of the container. cut the gun off of the pipe, add brake fluid to the 'pot' and push the pipe onto the bleed nipple. loosen the nipple and pump fluid into the system. basically back bleeding, i've done it lots on lorry clutches that wouldn't bleed normally and on a few cars too. not had that way fail me yet. obviously fluid will **** out of the reservoir but....
neil.
Sounds like a plan.
Used to use the old Gunsons Easy Bleed but It doesn't fit a Wilwood master
Just going to have to remove the seat again!
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
How much travel on the master is there that can be attained with the pedal. Most / many / all (???) masters have a travel in the range of just over an inch to about not much more than that. You want the pedal hitting the floor at or before the master bottoms out. (Insert discussion on pedal stops etc to prevent absolute full travel in the master as it is damaging). If your 9:1 is falling well short then you'll not be moving enough fluid volume.
A 7" servo is pretty innefectual but a dual is a bit better, but a servo isn't strictly necessary. Hopefully its not a fly in the ointment.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Last edited by Happydaze; 22-04-25 at 02:30 PM.
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
I'm thinking the 1" from the pivot is killing things, but only just, and possibly not helped by the long pedal.
Picture this. A triangle on a clock. Points as 12, 4 and 8 o'clock. 12 is the pivot. 12 to 4, 4 to 8 and 8 to 12 are all one inch. 12 is the pivot. 8 is the master pushrod start, 4 is the end. So, to get 1" of travel, from 8 to 4, being something getting on for the full stroke of the master, the shaft has to rotate anticlockwise around the pivot at 12 oclock a huge 120 degrees. Simple trig to illustrate that a mere 1" from pivot is insufficient to effectively get 1" or so of travel at the master. Increasing the arm length to say 1.25" will reduce the pedal travel required and reduce the pedal ratio to nearly 7:1, pretty ideal for a manual system. The relative heights of the pivot point and the master might become an issue though. Some pics of the setup might help. Continuing the clock based visualisation, if your start point is not at or around 8 you'll not be getting the stroke required. For example, if it started at say 6 the linear travel would end at 3, becoming negative thereafter (!) and in total much less than say 8 to 4. In reality it might be more like 7 to 5, but you get the idea, I hope.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
My confuser is refusing to work right now ( Ms upgrades no doubt) else I'd do some pressure sums.
Line pressure can be checked with a gauge, typically screwed into where a bleed nipple would be, but a disconnected line works too.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
