Nice that you don't have to wait for parts to arrive as originally thought! Don't forget to check the other engagement measurement ( paper clip or allen key) too.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Nice that you don't have to wait for parts to arrive as originally thought! Don't forget to check the other engagement measurement ( paper clip or allen key) too.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
The press arrived and the starter was rebuild and fitted, now turns over perfectly.
Got to the Super Nats and a few other shows.
Then in conversation about the oil leaking and knocking under load it was suggested I fit a thicker head gasket to lower the compression.
After a long conversation with the guys at Performance Unlimited it would appear my compression ratio is almost 14:1!!!.
No wonder oil is leaking out the gaskets.
When building the motor I was following a video series from an American fella who builds racing Ford BB's.
While I was ordering parts I changed the cylinder heads from what he was using to Kasse P-51's, as these had mega reviews on the BBF forums.
What I forgot to take into account was the chamber volume.
The Kasse heads had a much smaller chamber.
Should have gone with dished pistons rather than the current flat tops.
I'm now waiting for some dished JE pistons to arrive and will be stripping down the motor over winter as well as moving the brake pivot as per Neil's drawing from back in April.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
The starter motor will be delighted when you change that compression
Mal
I was told hotrodding was expensive, I laughed.......but it wasnt for long
Its all starting to make sense nowOriginally Posted by malstbird
The starter motor will be delighted when you change that compression
Mal
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
14:1
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
Well I know it's going to cost a bit more Phil but at least you know what the problem was and how to fix it. Pleased you've got to the bottom of it mate.
Cheers Tim W
Sent from my M2103K19G using NSRA mobile app
Well, true to form its been almst a year since I last posted
A lot has happend in that time.
The rod had an engine strip down and re-build
(I've also built a Sprinter Campervan conversion from scratch for my daughter
Thats a whole other story and not for this forum)
Turns out the slight tapping I was hearing was the inlet valves 'kissing' the top of the piston under load!!!.
There was a nice clean silver horseshoe shape on the top of the pistons when I removed the heads.
Found when I originally did the crank to cam timing the degree wheel said 102 degrees, the cam card said 104 degrees so I advanced the crank sprocket 2 degrees to 104.
Should have retarded the sprocket 2 degrees to 104
I was running 4 degrees to far advanced and the inlet valve was opening to soon.
Dished pistons fitted, all timed up correctly and now re assembled.
The car passed it MOT and has been on the road this summer.
Did the Redhill Cruise 60 miles there, drive around and 60 miles back, all good exept for a bit of transmission overheating in the traffic, but what can you expect with a high stall convertor.
The car now pulls like a train and is a proper handfull.
The brake pedal was rebuilt and the pivot point lowered 2 inches under the floor.
The front brakes have improved but th back ones are still not great.
I have just powder coated and refurbed the Cosworth rear calipers the car came with and will be re-fitting them soon to try and improve the efficiency.
The current handbrake arrangement is also very poor so that should improve with the referb callipers.
Last edited by fabphil; 11-09-24 at 11:14 AM.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Thanks for the update, great looking car.
If the auto trans fluid has overheated it needs dumping and replacing, even if it's new fresh fluid .
I'm sure you may know this Phil , hope you don't mind me mentioning it,but best to be sure
and if the trans' overheats in traffic you need a better cooler. i fitted one with an electric fan on my anglia gasser as i also had a high stall converter.
neil.
Luckily I’ve fitted a trans oil temp gauge so could see the temp rising and do something about it. I did fit an oil cooler with a fan but thought for some reason I’d disconnected the fan when removing some braided fuel line. Once I’d parked up and had a look underneath the fan was actually connected up. Switched it on and went for a longer drive up to the Shell garage and things cooled down quickly. The trip home was fun as I couldn’t find my ear plugs. Felt like I’d been to a concert by the time I’d got home. I now have an idea of fuel consumption, worked out at around 9mpg
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Two months on and the rear calipers are finally back on the car.
I had all sorts of problems with leaks from the hoses.
The calipers being replaced used a banjo bolt and copper washers, no leaks at all.
On the Cosworth calipers I couldn't get them to seal even using new copper washers.
I finally found some fitting from CBS that worked, no more leaks.
The brakes were bled until there was no bubbles but the pedal still feels a bit soft.
These pics are with the banjo bolts before I noticed the leaks!
Whilst out and about I found a new sign for the garage
Car is now ready to take for a run again.
Front suspension A arms next, they need the chrome removing and powder coating black.
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Might need to check the length of the wheel studs as they're looking a bit short!
Whilst doing that it might be worth carefully examining whether the orientation of the caliper makes the bleeder port draw from the exact top of the cylinder. Might be the pic but it does look like it might not, but rather marginal? If it's not just bleed with the caliper loose and one bolt removed. Should allow for some repositioning.
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
After a brief discussion over on the Tech section I've decided to try and blast the chrome plate off the suspension arms and powder coat them.
I will also replace the blue polyurethane bushings as they appear to have gone a bit soft.
Removed the arms on the nearside to start, bushings all came out fine then to remove the balljoint.
I didnt have a spanner that fitted so ... in the vice and wack with a large hammer
Are finally came off after a bit of heat was applied aswell.
For those interested the IRS is a Yorkshire Street Rod part.
From the little I could find on the web mine looks like the last version made.
The ball joints are from a Talbot Solara.
I know this as I have just got 4 new ones arrived!
We can now see the stare of the plating.
When I get some time I will go to the shed and run up the blast cabinet and see what damage I can do.
Whilst in the garage also sorted out my "Christmas tree"
https://youtube.com/shorts/3oO4ErOohDw?feature=share
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Well that tree looks fab ..
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
Good job they're not the earlier YSR version with the catastrophically failing Transit track rod ends inappropriately used as balljoints.
Can't even remember what a Talbot Solara looks like!
Chris
Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.
Amazing what you can do with some plastic fence posts and some lamp holders. Cost a fortune in LED lamps though
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Nothing too write home about !
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
basically an alpine saloon.
An hour and a halfs blasting with 70 grit ally oxide.
All the loose chrome plate and rust is off and what evers left is stuck and well keyed.
Next stop powder
You have to get older, but you don't have to grow up!!!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
