Black'n'Flamed 32 3 window

[fabphil]

(13/05/19)
Finally got round to looking at the damper hub that needs honing.
I purchased a 3 stone honer from our fav auction site. On arrival I realised it wouldn't work as the stones were the same size as the keyway, so would just get stuck.
I tried calling my usual machine shops I use thy all asked if the hub had a keyway. When told yes they all said they couldn't do it for the same reason.
Then it came to me, fill the keyway with something! Sourced some 1/4 x 1/4" brass bar. Then needed to get it to 1/8" deep. Got out the junior hacksaw and cut straight down the middle. What do you know, it fitted exactly.



Went to find the hone tool... spent the next two hours turning the garage upside down, still couldn't find it so had to order another one...now waiting for it to arrive!

[fabphil]

(13/05/19)
After almost a year just looking at it I finished the plumbing on one side tonight

[fabphil]

(15/05/19)
Some more done tonight. Offside solenoids and distribution blocks.


Tube bender. Its not as easy to be consistent like all the videos on YouTube show! Even measuring twice and bending one the offside pipes are all slightly longer than the nearside




All nitrous kit installed and fuel and nitrous supply pipes connected.

[fabphil]

(19/05/19)
New honing tool arrived.


Looks like the trick with the brass insert worked. All honed. Wasn't sure whether to add oil or not so didn't in the end. The stones wore down fairly quickly but I achieved the end result I needed.


The hub was heated up with a heat gun for a couple of minutes then it slipped on the crank snout with out to much effort. Once cold the fit was what I would expect. Damper bolt fitted and torqued to 90ft/lbs.

Damper installed, 6 bolts torqued to 16ft/lbs. Bolts use a T40 Torq bit. Installed timing pointer.

There are three bolts for the crank pulley. My old pulley set had four holes, so now have to re-drill the pulley!

[fabphil]

(07/06/19)
Time to fit the water pump. Applied a very thin layer of RTV to gasket and stuck in place.


More RTV on the front side.


Mounted up the pump backing plate and RTV fixed pump gaskets.


Installed pump.



One more step closer to finishing.

[fabphil]

(05/07/19)
Hoisted the engine down onto the floor. I can now get to the core plug behind the camshaft to install fully.
Also found out I need to order a 9/16" hex drive to do up the two screw in plugs either side. There's always something!


The trans seems to be attracted to the new block, hope they mate together OK.



The Wheel" flexplate from JW Racing ready to go on. Not sure which way round it goes though. Need to order 6 x 7/16"UNF TH bolts for that.



New high stall custom convertor from JW Racing. When fully located on the trans drive shaft the ribs on top of the convertor rub on the bolts that secure the bell housing to the trans case. I'm hoping the convertor moves forward to the block once all is bolted together.

[fabphil]

(10/07/19)
One step forward, two steps back!

The HT bolts to mount the flex plate to crank (7/16" x 1" UNF) arrived and after fitting...were to long and touched the back of the block...bu**er!

Had a thought about how many horses will be going through these bolts then looked at ARP flex plate bolts, £25.00 for 6 which ever way I look at it. Buy here or order from Summit.......bu**er.

Sorted out which way the flex plate goes. The TC only sits flat on it one way. A sticker or stamp saying "engine" would be useful.


Another question, there is a thin steel plate that fitted between the C6 trans and the original block. Do I need this?
What is it actually for?

[fabphil]

(11/07/19)
Done a bit more digging.
Its called a block plate (rather than a motor plate used for mounting the engine) and is one of the items that sets the depth the starter pinion gear engages with the flex plate ring gear.
Some people seem to use them others not.
I think I'll use mine for safetys sake.
I remember my old MK2 Cortina had a plate between the block and box, was always areal pain to line up everything and get a bolt started.
Looks like I also need two transmission locating dowels as well!!!

There is no strengthening ring on my original 460 flex plate, may be a small block thing?
The JW flex plate is pretty meaty so probably doesn't need one.

(The strengthening ring - turns out is a circular shim (0.050") washer used to space the flywheel bolts away from the block.
Used on a lot of Fords especially diesels).

The Ford starter bolts straight up to the bell housing with the plate as a spacer.

OK, so I needed to get the block plate off the old engine. Thought it would be U shaped like my old Fords and just lift off.
No such luck, had to struggle to remove the flex plate as I'd put it against the garage wall and a 460 engine weighs in at around 600LBs so not easy to just swing round!
Finally got it off and de-greased.


Then had to free the new flex plate from its fit on the new crank.
Some time later the block plate was in situ and the flex plate mounted using the old bolts. APR's on order from Topspeed.

[fabphil]

(17/07/19)
New flex plate bolts arrived.


Got some 1/2" bright steel bar and made some trans alignment dowels.


New bolts fitted. That was fun... apply ARP lube to underside of head then Loctite to thread and torque up to 75LB/FT.
The bushing in the centre is to adapt a GM torque converter to a Ford crank.

[fabphil]

(22/07/19)
Poured 3 quarts of fluid into the TC and waited for the air bubbles to stop.



Mounted up on trans input shaft. It took almost 10 minutes of twisting and gentle pushing for it to engage in the pump.


Propped up the rear of the trans on a bit of wood to get things level, then with "a little hummmph" the trans slid into place.


Then bolted up 30FT/LBS. Job done


Just got to sort the firewall area of the body out now so I can hoist into place....

[fabphil]

(18/08/19)
Had to find some where to put the induction so the top of the motor seemed like a good place.
Getting there

[fabphil]

(31/08/19)
Well its been a year or so since my last post in this thread.
So just to finish it off...


Still got the final dialling in to do, timing etc but she started up first push of the button

[v8pop]

Nice one Phil, that's given me plenty to read while it's wet outside.

Cheers Tim W

Sent from my G3121 using NSRA mobile app

[rocker]

Very Nice .

[fabphil]

There’s loads more to come. If I remember the main reason I stopped posting on this forum was difficulty in loading pictures. I’ve just found I can copy and paste OK so transferring the rest over shouldn’t be to painful.


Sent from my iPhone using NSRA mobile app

[fabphil]

OK.
Back to the car
(25/02/19)
First go at proper solid riveting. Looks straight forward but the result wasn't quite as good as I'd hoped for.....it can only get better



Used marine Sicaflex to bond the ally to the existing firewall.


Starting to bring cables through and find all the original holes for brackets and clamps etc.

[fabphil]

(06/05/19)
Have been working on the motor for a while now, got some time over the weekend to start on the bomber seats.
Hot Rod Harry helping to hold down the ally sheet.


Four sides cut out with the air shears


Centre punched holes for rivets


Ended up drilling over two hundred 3mm holes for the rivets


Got this expanding gadget to set the distance between the rivet holes ,saves a lot if measuring


Cleco fittings to hold all together


Angle fitted to side piece

And we get to fitting the copper rivets. The air gun makes short work of things.


A few hours later, angle riveted , all U section edging cut for both seats. Lumbar support made.

Seat bottom and back bent, sides clamped in place.


Then I got to play with my dimple die cutters!

(Can't load any more pics. Reached post limit).

It's surprising how long it takes. Lots still to do. Need to deal with the sharp corners on the U section, rivet the back and base to the sides. Then fit to the mounting frame. Looks like there will be almost 500 rivets per chair!

(Had a re-think on the edges. I'm not really happy with the angle at the top and bottom of the seat sides even filing them to a radius they will still hurt if accidentally caught so will be altering them to curves and hopefully using split copper micro bore plumbing pipe (8/10mm) to follow the curves.)

[fabphil]

(27/05/19)
Got some play time today. Started on the roof switch panel.
This has to house all the usual switches lights, wipers, de-mist fan, brake level warning light and test switch plus all the aux switches for the nitrous, fuel pumps, cooling fans etc. Also has the radio, nitrous computer and trans and oil temp gauges.
Started off using the folder to get the basic shape then a lot of drilling, cutting and filing to get all the holes correct. The three holes in the back are for the BMW de-mist fan (BIVA requirement).








Cut and folded the end pieces.





Riveted into place.





Fitted all the kit.



The blower fan is the smallest I could find to fit, its the rear screen de-mist from a BMW cabriolet. Works like a small hairdryer, no water required.

[fabphil]

(07/06/19)

Started on the wiring for the switches. Spaghetti! Should look better when the plugs are on the ends and all cable tied up.



Trying to figure out the side light/headlight, low beam/high beam and two speed wipers has been interesting

[fabphil]

(16/07/19)
Bit more progress - dash back in