Just minus nine, you probably won't even need a hat on then Ian.
Cheers Tim W
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Just minus nine, you probably won't even need a hat on then Ian.
Cheers Tim W
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you sound like the guy a bought a motorbike from in carlisle some years ago tim. the weekend before christmas we went up from kent arriving at 8am and the snow was crunching underfoot where it had frozen. he came out in shorts, t shirt and flip flops and had his back door wide open the whole time we were there. we were 'soothern softies' apparently, lol.
neil.
That's actually made me laugh out loud mate. I'm not quite that hardy
Cheers Tim W
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I used to ride a motorcycle to work, a long time ago. When I had hair and a moustache. I was on nights and when I got home my moustache was froze to my bottom lip. Her indoors thought it was funny.
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Door is off,for the first time since the assembly line back in 1955,i figured if i cant take the hinge to the vice i will bring the vice to the hinge.
This big Record vice is a proper crusher, but not this time ,the hinge pin wont budge ,tried a bit of heat with an electric heat gun,no good ,can't risk burning the paint on the door,
So i have drilled out the rivets and removed the hinge from the door ,they are not designed to come out,so i had to force it out !!!
The next battle will involve a lot of heat ,hopefully tomorrow .
Has anyone drilled one of the OE Ford pins,i couldn't even mark it with a file ,haven't tried drilling though.
I was convinced that vice would shift it,i have tried hammering it once the hinge was removed too,looks like i have the king of all seized pins
I think you need a bigger spacer on the top as it's quite a large dome, and 6foot of scaffolding tube on the vice handle
There was room for it to move,the plan was to add space once it started moving John,but not a chance,I had a shorter pin on the other end too for more control.
The pin is siezed in the large middle section,it's supposed to move on that one.
I have the vice bolted to a big plank of wood on the floor so I could get some proper leverage on it,I've had far more pressure on it that is possible on a hand held device.
Top hinge pin is also siezed in the middle section,I'm hopping to get that one out while still on the door.
Have you left it like this overnight ? that and a good spraying of release fluid of choice it might creep out ?
now the hinge is off, get it back in the vice as above and get some proper heat on it. not a mapp gas torch, i mean an oxy acetylene torch. if you don't have one find your nearest steel fabricators, they'll get it hot enough. or even a blacksmith?
neil.
Could you get a thin cutting disc to cut the middle part out then you would have a chance with shorter bits of pin to remove? Just looking at the picture so not sure I’m seeing it properly.
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I'd put it in a can of diesel or paraffin overnight, that may help ease the middle joint. Good luck Ian.
Cheers Tim W
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Thanks for all the advice guys,just to give you idea of the status of the pin,this must have been seized before I bought the car in 1978, someone then pulled the door open hard snapping the pin at the red line,yellow line shows where the pin is still rusted in,the blue where it is free,and (aghemm ) the head of the pin is indicated by purple , moderators please feel free to censor this obscenity
Today I'm going to try and remove the top piece above the red line where it is sheared off, this may help as it's some resistance removed and also if the break is at angle that could also cause it to wedge up from underneath.i am expecting the red line sheer point to be a bit higher than where I've indicated.
Years ago I had easy access to gas bottles Neil,it may well come to that ,I have a few people I can ask.
I don't want to disc cut it as I'm hoping to use the top or bottom of the hinge as a guide for the punch.
I'll update later today
Ps,the top hinge is also siezed on the middle but loose at the top and bottom, which is the reverse of normal operation.
Last edited by Captain Scarlet; 10-01-23 at 11:42 AM.
I thought about that John,I left it for a short while,but I was a bit nervous about leaving it,it was under some serious pressure, almost starting to crush the hinge section !!! Didn't want something flying out the vice also with Julie's van less than two foot away.
Tim , good idea I should have soaked it last nigh but I'm too impatient now,think it would hard to soak on there after all these years.
That door needs tilting slightly to get a good alignment otherwise your trying too push the pin into the hinge ?
Edit ... you would be surprised how soaking it in release fluid makes a difference
Thanks John,I realigned it a few time after that photo,and there is a bit of optical illusion going on.
I was thinking if you cut the red line between the yellow and blue line and did the same at the purple so you had the hinge in to pieces to work on a smaller part at a time. No. I’ll keep watching what you do to solve the problem.
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It's out,not just top part,but the whole thing
In less than 20 minutes!!
I'll put a photo up of the pin, probably take me longer to shrink the photo size than get the pin out
The pin appears well worn at the end but its not, its the way the light on the photo is.
I took the top part out using a forked wedge,then just out of interest tried to knock the rest out from the top with a drift cold,there was some resistance but not enough to compare with the forces tried previously from the bottom.
Note the bottom of the pin is swollen, not sure if i did that as it had a 'domed' rounded appearance before i started ,and i continued as the hinge was worn oversize, but obviously not enough for it to pass through .
Do they swell these at the bottom on the production line ? or did someone have a go back it the 70's before i got it and gave up ,i know many people have drifted the pins up from the bottom though,so swollen at the production line seems unlikley.
A bit more likely is where the pin sheared its at a slight angle, and at that point in the hinge there is a lip worn in it,i think it was kicking over and digging into that lip.
Lets see what happens at the top hinge,that pin has not sheared so i am hoping for less of a struggle and to get it out with the hinge still on the door.
i will examine the bottom of the pin for swelling first,may give it a try with the vice if it does not go easy ,ill cut the the mushroom head off the pin and drive it down,though there is a spline at the top of the pin,it does not seem right to score the hinge all the way down.But i expect i may order the oversize replacement pin.
Well done getting it out! What diameter is the pin? I think I replaced them all with M8 stainless steel cap screws when I did mine, with a thread in the bottom section of hinge.
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Shine is Fine
Thanks Andy, standard pin is 7.2mm dia,oversize pin is 7,6mm,from small ford spares,pop brown does them a lot cheaper but only lists the std pin.
Due to the damage to the hinge body I think I am going to need oversize,I never considered using a stainless pin though
Gonna get the top one out before I order anything though