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Thread: Morris 8

  1. #581
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    I had never heard of anti fish eye/ anti silicone - thanks for telling me.
    I've been out and bought some already.
    I might get time tomorrow to sand it again and next time that dry weather coincides with my garage time I will be redoing it with the anti silicone, and definitely not using the hot air gun


    Some good news, I phoned Newham council, explained what had happened, apparently they have a whole department dedicated to hot rodders who have had paint issues whilst paying for their other car to be parked on the road, they are going to refund my £1.67.
    Or maybe I should've saved that tale for April 1st?


    EDIT so with the wings needing to dry I jumped onto the brakes. The system was completed a week or 2 ago, so this afternoon I checked every join, then bled the system. All working now, I even jacked up one corner and turned the wheel by hand to prove that the brakes work!!
    Last edited by taxirod; 25-03-25 at 04:55 PM.
    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  2. #582
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    have you got any hurry up ian? proper names include rocket accellerator, you add 3-4 drops in the pot and the paint will dry in freezing conditions. assuming you're using 2 pack paint that is.
    neil.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_n...acat=0&_sop=15

  3. #583
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    I did have some, just run out.
    Thanks for the link
    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  4. #584
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    My work has been quiet lately, and its been getting boring. The good thing about my work is that can work whenever I want to, and take time off whenever I want. So Wednesday I skipped it and delved into the attic, I found the electric fan, new and unused, and came across a fitting kit for it, along with other various bits. I also spent some time looking at the fuse box (left from the purple truck) and decided to prune it right back. Easier to start afresh rather than reuse wires that had been shortened /lengthened/ splced. The fuse box is now fitted into the Morris along with one of those dirty great big fuses between the battery and the fuse box. All ready to do the wiring now.

    After the excitement of getting the brakes working, I noticed that there were no pipe clips on the run along the chassis to the back, so I got that done (giving myself a fat lip in the process when I bashed the drill into my mouth as i worked in an awkward position).

    I fabbed a couple of brackets to attach the fan to the rad and just used one of the bits from the kit to secure the bottom part. I never did like relying on those "through the core" thingies for total support.




    The time missed from work also enabled me to have an early start in the garage today, that always feel good, seems to speed up my progress.

    Meanwhile I made a phone call as i dreamed about my next project. Hmm, better finish this one first.



    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  5. #585
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    So today I paid Newham council another £1.67 to park the Ruby on the street, then repeated the whole process...moved Morris to other side of garage, covered it up, covered other stuff to prevent overspray, did all the usual prep...then sprayed.
    Came out better today - is this due to the warmer weather? the added rocket drops? me gradually getting better at this 'ere spraying lark?
    I do love to see a freshly painted panel, looking wet even when its dry. Seems a shame to colour sand it, but I guess I should.....that's tomorrow or Monday depending on my spare time.






    With the wings in the garage drying, I decided to have another go at the running boards, since some more fluted rubber matting had arrived. To overcome the double curvature, I drew a line along the curve, and stuck the rubber to the top of the board, but leaving the last couple of inches without glue. Then I stuck the other piece of rubber to the upright part, again leaving the edge not stuck. This allowed me to cut the excess off both at the same time where they overlapped, in theory giving a perfect join. Note key expression - "in theory". It certainly is not perfect, and the edges, where they meet were trying to curl up, so I used tape to hold it in position. Now I'm hoping that it will dry OK, and with a bit of tweaking I'll get away with it.
    Then there's the other one to do.




    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  6. #586
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    Warmer weather makes a huge difference, and sometimes the stars just align! Pita when you get out of the hardener temp range though. I'd think I'd be giving it some more time before colour sanding. A day or so is rather on the short side. Everyone has a different opinion though!

    Chris

    Sent from my SM-T515 using NSRA mobile app
    Bumper sticker - This is an historic vehicle and only has three speeds....... if you don't like this one you sure as hell won't like the others.

  7. #587
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    2k is a whole different animal to the paints of old. as soon as it's hard enough you can't press a finger print into it is when you flat and polish. the longer it's left the harder it is to sand. professional body shops would go out of business if they waited several days before flatting, what does that tell you about how long to leave it?
    neil.

  8. #588
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    When I pulled the tape off the running board the next day, it looked better than i thought it would. I cleaned up the joint of the 2 bits of rubber by sanding it down, apart from a couple of air bubbles (drat!) its come out ok.
    At least, the best I can achieve in the circumstances. Maybe I can fix those bubbles somehow.




    remember the cover I was making for the hydraulic pipes? Back in January, made from a canister I found outside on the road.








    Amazing what a difference a squirt of paint makes!
    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  9. #589
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    thats such a lovely curve Ian i would not be able to resist painting the whole mudguard, foot board ,rear mudguard, run , from front to back of the car , then a slim rubber or hardwood patch,just where the foot would go, with brass edging .


    regards
    robert

  10. #590
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivanhoew View Post
    thats such a lovely curve Ian i would not be able to resist painting the whole mudguard, foot board ,rear mudguard, run , from front to back of the car , then a slim rubber or hardwood patch,just where the foot would go, with brass edging .


    regards
    robert
    yes, or slim wood strips with polished metal edge trims.
    neil.

  11. #591
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    The running boards are now solid metal, but have had so many repairs they look better hidden under the rubber!




    I got the other running board done and bolted on









    You can buy a breather for the Zetec type engine for £29 on ebay, saved the money, easy to make my own (not easy to photograph it deep in engine bay).

    Ive been working on many things at once lately, leads to so many tools everywhere and not knowing if I'm coming or going. So I made a list of jobs to be done, which definitely helped me today.
    I got the clutch slave on properly and bled (thanks for weed sprayer tip), clutch seems to be working, I'll find out for sure next time I fire her up. It was a bit of a game, since the bleed nipple was tiny and I had to hold the bleed pipe on with one hand while pushing the pedal with the other. I was anxious that I might get some fluid on my newly painted wings!
    The metal part of the dash which houses the bakelite part needed lots more work, Ive now made a piece which hinges open to give access to master cyls, and put in a brace to stop any wobbliness.
    One simple job, wiring the alternator, I had been putting off, but today I got the info of how to wire it correctly so thats a simple job for next time.
    Started making support bracket for rear section of exhaust, more anxiety that I didn't get any weld spatter on the paint.
    The shiny cover for the hydraulic pipes could now go on, creating a contrast with the now very dusty painted bulkhead.

    5 more cutting discs since last mentioned.


    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

  12. #592
    NSRA member taxirod's Avatar
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    I recently completed the exhaust, here is the rear section:




    Without a Tig, I've welded it using stainless wire in my Mig, OK so it's not so pretty, but I did it myself, using mostly bits left from the exhaust off my purple truck.
    The whole system is quite easy to remove, front section joins to rear section with a bolt up flange.
    And it ends up at the back like this....







    The removable toe bar will be hidden by a hinged number plate.










    With the exhaust finished, it was good to tidy up garage and put all the leftover bits of stainless pipe into a bag to put away until the next project.


    Now I can take the back half of the exhaust back off, and remove the rear body panel for prep and paint.
    I just hope that when it all bolts back together afterwards, that those tailpipes still sit nicely in the centre of their holes in the body
    I may live in East London, I may have a number plate that reads "Chopt",
    but I do NOT use 6" wheel spacers!

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