So gonna start rebuild/upgrade

[BadAC]

Hi chris yep did mean front mounts. As drivers side mid mount the rear bolt hole of the 3 is blocked by the steering box (and I aint changing that). I have heard about the rear mounting as well as the fronts, i can get to 2 of the side mounts on one side and all 3 on the other. I was thinking of a hybrid mount that fits to front and goes round the sides then put mount just forward of the steering box.

Will have to what i can find re front and rear mounts.

Cheers

Gary

Ps should have listened when you said go sbc many moons ago

[Happydaze]

Ha! I thought you'd be having fun (as usual!) with the steering box! A mount as you've described should work fine as long as the engine weight is borne somewhere away from the front, the block attachment point(s) being irrelevant. And who needs the stock, mechanical fuel pump anyway?

Chris

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[mygasser]

small block ford's only have 2 bolts per side so i wouldn't worry too much about not using the 3rd hole drivers side mate.
neil.

[BadAC]

Isn't that a bit like ford escorts only have 4 wheelnuts so why use 5 on a chevy.

Nah I am sure chevy made it with 3 for a reason.

Anyway going front plate mounting as it makes it easier to fit.

Cheers G

[mygasser]

as mentioned though you'll need some support at the engine/bellhousing area. maybe make a mid plate that has rubber/poly bushes where it attaches to the chassis. as i schrolled down i saw hauser's do them and only £45 in steel.
neil.
https://www.google.com/search?q=smal...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[BadAC]

Cheers Neil

Couldnt find it. But here is a card design loosely based on the speedway front mount. I am going to transfer to 2mm ali to refine shape size etc. Then see if i can get it cut in say 8mm plate. It will alo have a 1 inch strip welded to the bottom edge to add strength, thete also be at fat end to both dides for the rubber mount to fit to.

Is this over kill? Dunno but looks ok to me.

Bit of a problem at mo is the steerimg column is blocking access to a spark plug, of move engine up down or forward or back it just blocks another one instead. Now i think somewhere i read i could offset the engine to one by approx an inch without any problems. If so that would allow access to all plugs. Was i dreaming?


G

[Happydaze]

No pic of your plan

Offsetting the engine isn't a problem but the centerline of the engine / trans should be parallel to chassis centerline.

Chris



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[BadAC]

Cheers chris

Ah yes silly ol bugger I am, now there

Maybe i am being dumb but wont this affect the diff pinion ?

G

[Happydaze]

Affect pinion? Yes, but not a problem, many are like that! The working angles of the joints should accommodate that as long as there's nothing too wild going on!

Chris

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[Happydaze]

Your mount template is purely a Hurst style front mount which puts the max strain on the bellhousing. I've got a nice cad drawing with dimensions on if you like. It made making mine easy, but I have a steel bellhousing, and I've not yet ruled out adding mid mounts too, on a finished car!!

I thought you said you were using 2 bolts on the side mount but wrapping the mount around the front. I presumed the mounts to the chassis would be on the side, albeit on one side slightly ahead of the stock position. We'll, that's what I envisioned based on what you said! Ha ha!

Chris

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[mygasser]

here it is and in the description it mentions the steel plate at £45. they do the front plate too, so if it's available in steel for similar cost it's hardly worth making them yourself.
neil.
https://www.hauserracing.com/product...nt=22724809351

[BadAC]

Hi Chris

Drawing would be appreciated. Yeah I was looking to try and make it bolt to front 2 holes and wrap round to the mid mount holes on the drivers side on the top front bolt hole and the bottom one but the steering arm will be a bit tight. So decided to go for front mount and use some brackets at the rear. My engine is a Goodwrench Universal 350 that has quite a few bolts holes that do not appear to have much use but would be ok for me to make a mount. I could also use the bolt holes in the bottom of the th350 bellhousing to make a mount/crossmember. Still measuring/moving/wiggling etc. Gonna bolt on gearbox to see how the whole looks/fits. Pm'd you.

Neil that looks a bit drag racer for what I want but cheers, I think simple bracket at rear will work, or as above a crossmember for the front end of the box.

Cheers

G

[BadAC]

Cheers to chris for drawing,

Just come back from a 6.5 hour round trip to Crumbles place to collect headers. Shame missed him due to bl**dy dartford tunnel/m25 chaos. Shoul have bee a 3 hour round trip

Also i finally got back my starter had turned up as well.

All good.

Get to work on car tomorrow.

G

[BadAC]

Engine stand arrived so i can pull engine down check over and fit all new felpro gaskets. Heads off bores look good, may give them a hone, new rings as well. Gonna see what cam is fitted, done dial gauge check seems it might be standard gm one.

Ordered mini sportpack steering rack, gonna use spare beam axle to design mounts, using ideas obtained from john and tom.

Engine mounts arrived, gone side mount in the end.

Oh well plenty to do for now.

G

[BadAC]

So pulled most of engine apart.
Seems piston 1 has broken skirt(found it in sump), broken top ring, pistons 1-4 ,bearings scoref on crank, 1 bearing spun.

So gonna need a regrind, also new pistons as cant replace 1.

So might as well see if i can get some more horses out of it. At least its a 4 bolt mains.

Any suggestipns for pistons to increase cr, ive got 76cc smog heads.

No i dont wanna go vortec as got bloody good inlet msnifolds here.

Might change heads if any decent heads around.

[Happydaze]

Oh dear. Hope this was bought as needing a rebuild and not as a good runner, and priced accordingly.

Chris

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[mygasser]

you can buy single pistons gary, although if the skirt's broken on one is it worth chancing the rest? have a look on the rockauto website for very good prices. when you start adding parts to your basket there will be a letter (A,B, C etc) next to each part in the basket. that shows where the parts will be shipped from. top tip is even if you have to add a slightly dearer equivalent that'll ship from the same place it'll still be cheaper than shipping from 2 different places in the states.
neil.
ps if it's spun a rod bearing get that rod resized or the new shells may not get the correct crush.

[BadAC]

Chris yeah should have been a runner, i just pulled it down to change gasket, and rings, etc to make sure it was a longterm runner lucky i did. Seller passed it on in good faith from previous owner.

Neil yep knew about rod as had a spun bearing years ago in a v6
Will look at rock auto though i find it a bit all over the shop.

Cheers

G

[BadAC]

So back to engine saga.

Its gonna need a crank regrind, Re-bore, New pistons, New bearings, probably rods as well if number one big end is out of round due to spun bearing. Total some where around £1100-1500. and I will still have a 350.

Or

Get a whole 383 or 3555/357 rotating assembly from Summit with all the bits plus a new harmonic balancer and flex plate around £1100 shipped plus duties (not sure what they will be).

Need to give it a bit more thought as I believe 383 conversion can have problems with rods touching cam??? I was thinking of a cam with under 4.5 lift seen some around 4.2 ish which is better than what's installed.

Slowly learning about the Chevy lumps.

Had a result from seller so all good in the hood.

Gary

[Happydaze]

Slippery slope!

A stock / mild 350 will push you along just fine unless you're looking for serious power, said he with a 406!

I'm tempted to say to get a goodwrench crate stocker. They used to be £1000 but undoubtedly much more than that now, and some will report quality issues. Then again, with your own rebuilt you'll know what you have for same-ish money. Personally I think I'd be looking for a decent quality crate motor, Blueprint? Warranties typically do not work outside USA.

What do the likes of Real Steel have? Edit, just looked, about £3800 and up, rising rapidly!

Chris

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