Pop Mayday.

**Blackpopracing** · 21-01-25, 11:42 PM

It may be a std cam in there anyway? I'll need to pull it out and see if there are any markings on it. If it is std then it makes it a lot easier and cheaper. I don't even know at this point if it's a long or short nose cam as I've never worked on a Rover before. I really just want a quality brand that I can be confident it won't repeat the problem.

**Blackpopracing** · 21-01-25, 11:44 PM

John, not sure about the heads, most likely std with a small skim when it was rebuilt. Rocker shafts are not shimmed so no big skims or decked block.
It does have a lovely set of 4 into one headers though.

**jsf55** · 21-01-25, 11:52 PM

Cam identifications here if it's not stock https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...&f=13&t=753469
Cam pictures, yours is short as it has the pump low down https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/...fusion.357270/

**Happydaze** · 22-01-25, 12:31 PM

This found me, and made me think that the Pop engine repair could have been so much more involved! Quite amazing and enjoyable to watch.

Chris

https://youtu.be/ypfFtpHRSvQ?si=0CRFt5V3VV_mOmbJ

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**jsf55** · 22-01-25, 06:54 PM

Steve Morris is a different ball game too the old rovers

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**Blackpopracing** · 21-02-25, 09:40 PM

After doing some research I've got the shopping list together for Andy's pop engine - we are going with the hurricane cam from Real Steel, it does not need uprated valve springs but will increase power by 22 Bhp - which Andy will enjoy. Strangely Real Steel are also very reasonably priced compared to many other places.

I explained to them about losing a cam lobe in under 200 miles and they advised that car sos most likely did not use the correct camshaft break in oil. They now refuse to sell a cam to a customer unless they supply the correct break in oil and also the Comp cams additive. Just using the Comp cams additive with normal oil is not enough it would seem.

They have a 100% success rate with new flat tappet cams if both oils are used and all the cam failures they have investigated resulted in the fact that normal engine oil was used for the break in. This is quite reassuring, so hopefully no problems in the future!

**BadAC** · 21-02-25, 10:05 PM

So dont keep us hanging, whst oil do they suggest, i was hoing to use millers.

Hope it works for him.
G

**choppedblownpop** · 21-02-25, 10:28 PM

Thanks for the update

**Blackpopracing** · 21-02-25, 10:58 PM

Comp cams 10/30 break in oil with Comp cams break in oil additive to keep the zddp above 2000.

**BadAC** · 22-02-25, 10:14 AM

Cheers, will look at that, be nice fir him to have running properly.

G

**jsf55** · 22-02-25, 10:55 AM

22 bhp +the addition of a knackered cam lobe will see a tidy upggrade in power. Don't forget too time the spark right too

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**kapri** · 22-02-25, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by Blackpopracing

John, not sure about the heads, most likely std with a small skim when it was rebuilt. Rocker shafts are not shimmed so no big skims or decked block.
It does have a lovely set of 4 into one headers though.

Could just be the builder didnt understand about making go /nogo gauges to see if it needed shimming in the first place. I used a Hurricane cam in my last Rover and it DID need shims.

If the heads have been converted to unleaded seats that can also require shimming if the seat inserts aren't identical depth in the head .

**mygasser** · 22-02-25, 02:23 PM

no doubt you'll prime the oil before fitting the dizzy anyway mark.
i use this smith and allan 20/50 mineral oil, it has 1500 ppm of zddp. with the additive you'll be right at the comp cams spec. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373537080...YAAOSwMzFmVcuR
i also use gear oil (inc' lsd type) and other lubes from them too. always good service so they deserve a mention imo.
neil.

**Blackpopracing** · 22-02-25, 03:20 PM

Kev, I've never worked on a Rover before so any advice will be gratefully received. How do I know about shimming?

Neil, I'll use the proper break in oil, I used it on my Chevy years ago and that is still running fine - it's not worth using anything else.

**mygasser** · 22-02-25, 03:28 PM

i wasn't suggesting you used anything else mate, just saying that's what i use even after break in because of it's high zddp levels.
neil.

**Blackpopracing** · 22-02-25, 03:41 PM

Ah, gotcha. I'm now using Lucas hot rod oil in mine so will probably advise that for Andy as well.

**Happydaze** · 22-02-25, 04:02 PM

The shimming on a Rover is to do with putting shims under the rocker shaft pedestals to get the correct preload on the lifters. But you can't adjust individual lifters, the whole rocker assembly raises by the same shim amount, so there's a degree of compromise which is OK as long as there's nothing seriously out of whack. Adjustable pushrods start to get serious and spendy. Assemble and measure the preload at the lifters. I think that's done at the base of each cam lobe. I've forgotten the spec. Like shimming a Chevy starter, appropriate stiff wire is the ticket. Hope they're all in range, whatever that is! Not sure if it's done with the lifters dry or not. How useful am I?

Chris

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**jsf55** · 22-02-25, 07:29 PM

One of the better descriptions on how it's done
https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2376

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**Blackpopracing** · 23-02-25, 02:09 PM

Thanks John, so the inner pistons should be pushed down 20 thou when set on the base of the cam and empty?

**jsf55** · 23-02-25, 05:48 PM

That's it Mark 0.0020 to 0.0060 of an inch Most place sell the shimming to g under the rocker posts and it comes in several thicknesses

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