A quick question really...
Is a 1966 Ford 390cu.in unleaded compliant?
In other words, will it run on E10 without causing problems?
Thanks.
A quick question really...
Is a 1966 Ford 390cu.in unleaded compliant?
In other words, will it run on E10 without causing problems?
Thanks.
if you retard the timing to stop it pinking your only issue will be valve seat regression. if it's a toy not a daily driver that could take years to present as a problem though.
neil.
Thanks Neil.
I run everything on E5. The least amount of ethanol you can get away with is best in my book.
I only use E10 if I absolutely have to because I can't get anything else.
Probably worse in a vehicle that doesn't get used much. Leaving it stood could gum things up, it attacks all manor of things. Loathsome stuff.
Bringing this thread up again....
Will a Weber 38Dgas be ok with E10?
I'm having the heads done after the season to fit hardened valve seats
and wonder if the Weber will run on it without any issues?
Anyone done it yet?
It should run fine if tuned right. But it'll corrode and eat it if left in over winter or any long period of time
Sent from my SM-A515F using NSRA mobile app
i'd also replace every rubber pipe and seal from tank to carb, including the fuel pump diaphram for ethanol compatible ones.
neil.
Some older carbs using nylon/plastic floats have had the float `swell up` because of using E10, causing the float to stick and flood the carb; a big fire risk!. I had this problem with a `60s Lambretta I have, it also had an internal plastic gauze filter that softened and looked like it had melted. Luckily replacement E10 compatible floats and filters are available but I still make sure I only run E5.
If I have to use E10 in my roadster (new E10 compatible Stromberg`s) or Lambretta I only put a couple of gallons in to get me to another gas station to fill up with E5...
Thanks for the info. So if I run E5 as now, the carb should be OK as is?
I've had no problems that way so far but would I have to still use the additive to protect the carb?
i'd pop the top off the weber to check it has a brass float fitted.
neil.
In MY experience you suffer more problems with a brass float than with plastic. Ethanol in any grade eats soft metails ( brass and solder) and can pinhole floats causing flooding. I automatically swap to plastic on carb rebuilds .
I also use only genuine OEM carb overhaul kits.EDIT ( cheap) ABS plastic will melt in petrol or even acetone hence why i chose OEM parts
Last edited by kapri; 30-06-24 at 03:32 PM.
Galations 6:7
Thanks for the replies. I'll have to strip the carb down at the time I get the heads done then.
At least you've given me some idea of what to look for.
When at the FBHVC AGM a wile back we had a presentation from an ex-oil co committee member. He said some times the fuel in the pumps that says E5 that are close to distribution depots are actually E0, NO methanol added at all.....
I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.
My Intro '
A mate left petrol in his Stromberg 81s ( accidentally as he normally runs it dry when parked up ) . Power valve is now seized in there due to ali to brass electrolysis
Galations 6:7
Just to bring this thread up to date.
I have had the hardened valve seats done and new valves fitted so that's one job done.
I've also changed all the pipes from tank to carb for E10 compatible ones and the electric
pump I fitted last year is compatible too. So, I can't find any site anywhere online that
sells E10 compatible parts for my Weber 38DGAS unless anyone knows of one? If not it
begs the question that if I run on E10 with the lead replacement additive, will that protect
the carb seals? It has a brass float and the valve has a 'rubber' seal at the tip.
Comments welcome.
and the accellerator pump diaphram don't forget.
neil.
why not get hold of webcon and ask the question. they make new 38dgas carbs again so they must be compatible? they may do a rebuild kit with ethanol proof parts.
neil
Thanks Neil. Have Emailed them.
I have been in touch with Webcon about those E10 compatibility parts and yes they do sell a kit for them.
Great communication with them too. Parts now on order. They also mentioned that if the car is not being
run for 2 weeks or more, then the carb should be run dry before leaving it. So it looks like I will have to fit
a switch for the pump now to make that an easy job!
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