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Thread: Rear shock angle ?

  1. #21
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    The further they are from the wheel has an effect also Ade.


    Quote Originally Posted by cossie pop View Post
    Cheers Brian that gives me a little bit of leway
    Adie
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
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  2. #22
    Guest cossie pop's Avatar
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    Cheers Maurice and Steve
    the angle of the dangle is quit critical not just a case of finding two points to fit them to will have Alan round when it comes to fitment ideas

    went back and found this which gave me the ideas of a bellcrank set up may be usefull for others

    http://www.team321.com/321HotRodIRS/...odIRShome.html

  3. #23
    cabby
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  4. #24
    NSRA member MisteR Tee's Avatar
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    Not much work again then Tony??
    MisteR Tee
    Ah, Nostalgia, it ain't what it used to be!

    No longer wanted: Steel 26/27 Ford Model T coupe rear fenders.

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brizey View Post
    I`m not that up on shock hydraulics, but surely there shouldn`t be any air in the shock to start with (as from new)......
    If it were so, the oil would leak out as it heats up and expands, I would think.

    The few shockers I have messed with definitely have a squidgy/bubbley feel if you lay them on their side and operate them which, so I was told, is due to a small air pocket that inevitably gets trapped inside during manufacture.

    If you then stand them up, pump them a few times, the bubbles work to the top and are clear of the damping/hole action.

  6. #26
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Correct Paul, thats why they shouldn't be laid over.


    Quote Originally Posted by Paul B View Post
    If it were so, the oil would leak out as it heats up and expands, I would think.

    The few shockers I have messed with definitely have a squidgy/bubbley feel if you lay them on their side and operate them which, so I was told, is due to a small air pocket that inevitably gets trapped inside during manufacture.

    If you then stand them up, pump them a few times, the bubbles work to the top and are clear of the damping/hole action.
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

  7. #27
    Guest ross@rmrrestorations's Avatar
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    Anymore than 30 degrees and it's wise to get the shocks re-valved.
    My cantilevered rears for my 34 lie almost horizontally and had to be re-valved accordingly.

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