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Thread: Boston Brawler

  1. #1
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    Has taken me longer than i thought but newly built 468 ci Ford BBF with C6, New interior now all done in 60s style . glass front screen Hoosier rear tread tyres and 165/15 fronts done away with high walled cross plies that were on it. Have not changed the outside except for a few more air holes in front grille area and fitted Street lights back and front larger fuel tank, Tuck and Roll Sunroof insert,Rewired( new loom)Attachment 23504Attachment 23505 so ready i hope for road use as well. Still a bit more to do but getting there for 2014, Regards Steve
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    NSRA member thamesvan's Avatar
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    Oh mate,that is awesome!!!Truly one of the all time greats.Don't even go there with time,what you think will take a day takes a week,and a weekends work is a month??!!Not to mention 1 step forward and 10 backward,is it supposed to be fun? Appreciated the pictures,that is exactly what I would have done;namely,try and put it on the street.Bon chance.

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    Boston Brawler

    Quote Originally Posted by thamesvan View Post
    Oh mate,that is awesome!!!Truly one of the all time greats.Don't even go there with time,what you think will take a day takes a week,and a weekends work is a month??!!Not to mention 1 step forward and 10 backward,is it supposed to be fun? Appreciated the pictures,that is exactly what I would have done;namely,try and put it on the street.Bon chance.
    Will try and put some more pics up for you. Tnx for what you have said.If i paint it here is what i would copy SteveAttachment 23506Attachment 23507Attachment 23508
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    NSRA member grommit's Avatar
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    Mmmmm. Great video , love the Gasser's

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    Quote Originally Posted by GASSER33WILLYZ View Post
    Looking good Steve, will be good to see this legendary car run again!

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    Thanks steve w. i will be pleased when its running too!!!. just sorting fuel lines today from bulkhead to carb bloody cold out there. and then finish off tapping out Head stud threads in block as the first time they have ended up all different hights when nuts/washers on.
    Feel i should have started a BOSTON BRAWLER thread seemed to have taken over on this one .Sorry. Regards Steve (getting excited)

  7. #7
    Admin IanT's Avatar
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    Steve, I've moved your Boston Brawler posts into this new 'Members Rides' thread for you...
    IanT
    "that Plymouth had a Hemi with a Torqueflite"

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    Tnx Ian i will now put up dates on here it will make me get my finger out and get on with it, while on here just a big thanks to a mate of mine who has been pushing me along and has done rewire BIG thanks Keith G he is the one in picture not me.

  9. #9
    NSRA member mike noble's Avatar
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    get it done bud !!
    i live by the unwritten code between men, especially hot rodders

  10. #10
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Look forward to seeing out and about again Steve
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

  11. #11
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    make sure you use a thread chaser not a thread tap on the head bolt holes steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    make sure you use a thread chaser not a thread tap on the head bolt holes steve.
    Been told to use 9/16 unc tap plug, did not realize there still would be rusty **** down there, as mate pointed out the old head bolts fall short of threaded holes in block and studs go to the bottom. Learning curve all this for me as not an engine builder but keen to learn. thanks for advise. Steve

  13. #13
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GASSER33WILLYZ View Post
    Been told to use 9/16 unc tap plug, did not realize there still would be rusty **** down there, as mate pointed out the old head bolts fall short of threaded holes in block and studs go to the bottom. Learning curve all this for me as not an engine builder but keen to learn. thanks for advise. Steve
    Steve a plug tap will still cut threads, better to use a thread chaser in my opinion. Stud kits should just thread in to the block, don't tighten right down.
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Lang View Post
    Steve a plug tap will still cut threads, better to use a thread chaser in my opinion. Stud kits should just thread in to the block, don't tighten right down.
    O.K tnx for advise on this need to get it right cheers Steve L.
    Last edited by GASSER33WILLYZ; 18-01-14 at 10:31 PM.

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