If it was that easy, everyone & their kid brother would be doing it, look at my "rebuild". Only went in for a dodgy wheel bearing, now look at it!![]()
If it was that easy, everyone & their kid brother would be doing it, look at my "rebuild". Only went in for a dodgy wheel bearing, now look at it!![]()
MisteR Tee
Ah, Nostalgia, it ain't what it used to be!
No longer wanted: Steel 26/27 Ford Model T coupe rear fenders.
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mark i didnt have to open up me heads when using longer pushrods/roller rockers, im surprised you had to.
Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth
Not sure myself, the instructions say to do it, but they do clear in the original holes (but not by a great deal - 0.5-1mm)
Instructions also state that if using a high pressure oil pump (I am) that oil deflectors MUST be fitted to the rockers to prevent galling of pushrod tops and rocker balls?
Every man dies, not every man really lives.
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yes the gap between the holes and the pushrods is tiny but in 10 yrs ive never had any probs. I have a high volume pump rather than high pressure - the reality is its the same pump just a different spring in the pump but I don't use oil deflectors.
Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth
Oh well another job done, pushrod holes are now 29/64ths diameter.
Yes pushrod guide plates are fitted.
Good to know the oil deflector plates are hopefully not necessary, maybe typical yanks covering their asses in case someone sues? I think if the rocker covers are close it would the same as the oil deflectors anyway?
Engine was well taped up and 2 strong magnets placed either side of drill bit while drilling with tray under to catch the swarf. Hoovered up everywhere as well before wiping down with clean cloths. Fairly confident none has got anywhere near the internals.
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Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
you're a brave man drilling inside an assembled enginelooks like you took as many precautions as possible though
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mark your brave doing that to an assembled engine - I couldnt do it - there would be too much doubt in my mind
Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth
Brave or stupid!!
I'm 99% confident none got in where it shouldn't - if the engine suffers in the future then I'll just have to buy a nice ally oneThe engine is fully meshed over all oilways and has a full magnet kit bonded into it too, so hopefully if a stray particle did find its way in somewhere it will get picked up by them.
I ran one of our earth magnets over everything too which should pick up anything the eye cannot see. Also blew it all out with the airline after all magnets/hoovering/cleaning up but before removing any masking.
Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Back on track again, rockers studs & guideplates are back in the heads and pushrod length is being checked, unfortunately the tool Real Steel sold me was the wrong length so I cant check the correct length yet.
This is with the 7.8 inch rods in, which are too long.
This is the dipstick, I'm wondering if the outer tube should be longer as the original dipstick had been worn by the crank. The tube end feels a bit rough so might have been cut by a previous owner, any thoughts anyone?
Engine beginning to look a bit more engine like, inlet is only resting on at present.
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Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Mark that dipstick should not be touching the crank at all, outer looks a little short to me, the outer usually ends at the main bolt head level
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
I think I've sussed the old one, it was about 3" longer and would have been hitting the oil pickup which would have pushed it sideways so the crank could hit it.
The new one finishes just above the oil pickup so should be fine. It cant get near the crank now even if I push it with my finger, though I would agree Steve that I would prefer the tube to be longer.
I blueprinted the oil pump today but might leave the sump loose for a bit while I sort out a different pump spring, so I might be able to get a longer outer tube at the same time.
Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Blueprinted oil pump back on engine (with intermediate drive shaft fitted this time!)
Then tried the headers back on - a little massaging was needed for clearance to get the socket on the bolts but mostly there now.
Just stuck for the correct parts to finish it off now.
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Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
Hi Steve,
I do have the 12 points but when Bob Nixon built the headers he did not allow hardly any room at all on some of the flanges as he put the bend straight into the flange without any straight section.
Nuts are for bolting on deflectors as headers are directly behind front tyres, I plan to add some shields to stop the water off the tyres going directly onto the headers.
Every man dies, not every man really lives.
http://www.hotrodphotos.co.uk My Intro My Ride
http://www.case-design.co.uk
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist