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Thread: Woohoo!! Reassembly starts!

  1. #381
    NSRA member MisteR Tee's Avatar
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    If it was that easy, everyone & their kid brother would be doing it, look at my "rebuild". Only went in for a dodgy wheel bearing, now look at it!
    MisteR Tee
    Ah, Nostalgia, it ain't what it used to be!

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  2. #382
    NSRA member weemark's Avatar
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    mark i didnt have to open up me heads when using longer pushrods/roller rockers, im surprised you had to.

    Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth

  3. #383
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Not sure myself, the instructions say to do it, but they do clear in the original holes (but not by a great deal - 0.5-1mm)
    Instructions also state that if using a high pressure oil pump (I am) that oil deflectors MUST be fitted to the rockers to prevent galling of pushrod tops and rocker balls?

  4. #384
    NSRA member weemark's Avatar
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    yes the gap between the holes and the pushrods is tiny but in 10 yrs ive never had any probs. I have a high volume pump rather than high pressure - the reality is its the same pump just a different spring in the pump but I don't use oil deflectors.

    Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth

  5. #385
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by weemark View Post
    yes the gap between the holes and the pushrods is tiny but in 10 yrs ive never had any probs. I have a high volume pump rather than high pressure - the reality is its the same pump just a different spring in the pump but I don't use oil deflectors.
    yep, never used oil deflectors with uprated pumps either with no problems. and as long as there's clearance for the pushrod it's fine. didn't see, do you have pushrod guide plates. if so they make contact even less likely.

  6. #386
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    yep, never used oil deflectors with uprated pumps either with no problems. and as long as there's clearance for the pushrod it's fine. didn't see, do you have pushrod guide plates. if so they make contact even less likely.

    Oh well another job done, pushrod holes are now 29/64ths diameter.

    Yes pushrod guide plates are fitted.

    Good to know the oil deflector plates are hopefully not necessary, maybe typical yanks covering their asses in case someone sues? I think if the rocker covers are close it would the same as the oil deflectors anyway?

    Engine was well taped up and 2 strong magnets placed either side of drill bit while drilling with tray under to catch the swarf. Hoovered up everywhere as well before wiping down with clean cloths. Fairly confident none has got anywhere near the internals.


  7. #387
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    you're a brave man drilling inside an assembled engine looks like you took as many precautions as possible though

  8. #388
    NSRA member weemark's Avatar
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    mark your brave doing that to an assembled engine - I couldnt do it - there would be too much doubt in my mind

    Your emotions will always interfere with your sense of truth

  9. #389
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Brave or stupid!!
    I'm 99% confident none got in where it shouldn't - if the engine suffers in the future then I'll just have to buy a nice ally one The engine is fully meshed over all oilways and has a full magnet kit bonded into it too, so hopefully if a stray particle did find its way in somewhere it will get picked up by them.
    I ran one of our earth magnets over everything too which should pick up anything the eye cannot see. Also blew it all out with the airline after all magnets/hoovering/cleaning up but before removing any masking.

  10. #390
    NSRA member v8pop's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have if all covered Mark. Good luck with the rest of the build.

    Cheers. Tim W.
    They say "life's a Crap Shoot" - Sure would be nice to have some Shoot for a change !!

    My Pop My Intro

  11. #391
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by v8pop View Post
    Sounds like you have if all covered Mark. Good luck with the rest of the build.

    Cheers. Tim W.
    Lets hope so Tim.

  12. #392
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Back on track again, rockers studs & guideplates are back in the heads and pushrod length is being checked, unfortunately the tool Real Steel sold me was the wrong length so I cant check the correct length yet.

    This is with the 7.8 inch rods in, which are too long.


    This is the dipstick, I'm wondering if the outer tube should be longer as the original dipstick had been worn by the crank. The tube end feels a bit rough so might have been cut by a previous owner, any thoughts anyone?


    Engine beginning to look a bit more engine like, inlet is only resting on at present.

  13. #393
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Mark that dipstick should not be touching the crank at all, outer looks a little short to me, the outer usually ends at the main bolt head level
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
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  14. #394
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I think I've sussed the old one, it was about 3" longer and would have been hitting the oil pickup which would have pushed it sideways so the crank could hit it.

    The new one finishes just above the oil pickup so should be fine. It cant get near the crank now even if I push it with my finger, though I would agree Steve that I would prefer the tube to be longer.

    I blueprinted the oil pump today but might leave the sump loose for a bit while I sort out a different pump spring, so I might be able to get a longer outer tube at the same time.

  15. #395
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Blueprinted oil pump back on engine (with intermediate drive shaft fitted this time!)
    Then tried the headers back on - a little massaging was needed for clearance to get the socket on the bolts but mostly there now.
    Just stuck for the correct parts to finish it off now.





  16. #396
    Guest 53pop's Avatar
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    looking very nice wont be long now and in she goes

  17. #397
    NSRA member v8pop's Avatar
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    The Engine looks well Mark, just needs moving over to the right a few feet mate. Keep it coming.

    Cheers. Tim W.
    They say "life's a Crap Shoot" - Sure would be nice to have some Shoot for a change !!

    My Pop My Intro

  18. #398
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackpopracing View Post
    Blueprinted oil pump back on engine (with intermediate drive shaft fitted this time!)
    Then tried the headers back on - a little massaging was needed for clearance to get the socket on the bolts but mostly there now.
    Just stuck for the correct parts to finish it off now.





    Mark if you use ARP header bolts with the 6 or 12 point head they fit easy as the head flange is reduced. Out of interest what are the nuts spot welded to the primaries for ???
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

  19. #399
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Hi Steve,
    I do have the 12 points but when Bob Nixon built the headers he did not allow hardly any room at all on some of the flanges as he put the bend straight into the flange without any straight section.

    Nuts are for bolting on deflectors as headers are directly behind front tyres, I plan to add some shields to stop the water off the tyres going directly onto the headers.

  20. #400
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackpopracing View Post
    Hi Steve,
    I do have the 12 points but when Bob Nixon built the headers he did not allow hardly any room at all on some of the flanges as he put the bend straight into the flange without any straight section.

    Nuts are for bolting on deflectors as headers are directly behind front tyres, I plan to add some shields to stop the water off the tyres going directly onto the headers.

    Oh dear thats not very handy the primaries are always a problem on SBC's, In the past i've dinked little depressions in them for clearance but I guess your headers are all coated now
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

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